pmaropak
Member
- Joined
- April 25, 2007
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Toronto, Ontario
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1996 Eddie Bauer
Alright, I'm not the best searcher ever (believe me I try, however, I often find it hard to find what I'm looking for). so it took me forever to find some instructions on how to deal with a problem with my 1996 EATC. The blower in the automatic climate control system was blowing 100% full, (even when I turned the system off) very annoying. Then (all by itself) it changed to either FULL ON, or FULL OFF. Also very annoying, but at least you can shut the system off once in a while.
So, I figured, ok it's a blower resistor... but to my dismay, the $15 part that I bought was not correct, I needed to get my hands on a $300 BLOWER MOTOR CONTROLLER. It was special order from ford, and was going to take a day or two to get in. I was pissed off, so I searched this awesome website and found that the CONTROLLER for the 1996 is very hard to find... I tried, with no success.
The learning I had was thanks to another user (ians952) use the 1998 part (rock auto RU539) and doctor up the connector.
So that is what I did... Here is my first How-to:
I first started by removing the Cruise control module, connected with a 10mm bolt, through the fender.
Disconnect the following connectors...
Blower Motor
Blower Motor Controller
Cruise Control
Windshield washer pump
Another connector attached to the same tub (might be a level meter)
Once these connectors are disconnected, you can pull the wire harness out of the way to give you enough room to remove the BLOWER MOTOR CONTROLLER.
Use 8mm bolt (its a tight fit) I have an air ratchet, so I didn't have to try to swing a handle - if you don;t have the air ratchet, you MAY have to remove the air cleaner, air cleaner housing, and the coolant and washer fluid reservoir.. It's not hard, but just a few extra minutes.
Once removed, you can see the hole (rectangular) at the (imagine the blower motor housing is a clock) 5 o'clock position...
In this picture, you can see the old 1996 version of the blower motor controller . The high amperage connections are perpendicular to the smaller reference wires.
Your new controller, will NOT accept the connector from the old harness - SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET THE PIGTAIL - I didn't find it, and had to butcher my connection..
I crimped on Blade terminals to some wire (3 14guage for the reference, and 12 guage for the power)
I screwed down the Controller with the pigtails sticking out, so I could test the system before I made my final connection..
Here is the connection I made.
.
The wrap up, was a whole lot of electrical tape, trying to seal up the connections. You need to make sure that they are tight, clean and protected since the environment is harsh.
The system works perfectly now, and I'm happy to have saved hundreds of dollars with a little elbow grease.
Special thanks to....
ians952
scucci
for having the same problem, and the solution to it.
So, I figured, ok it's a blower resistor... but to my dismay, the $15 part that I bought was not correct, I needed to get my hands on a $300 BLOWER MOTOR CONTROLLER. It was special order from ford, and was going to take a day or two to get in. I was pissed off, so I searched this awesome website and found that the CONTROLLER for the 1996 is very hard to find... I tried, with no success.
The learning I had was thanks to another user (ians952) use the 1998 part (rock auto RU539) and doctor up the connector.
So that is what I did... Here is my first How-to:
I first started by removing the Cruise control module, connected with a 10mm bolt, through the fender.
Disconnect the following connectors...
Blower Motor
Blower Motor Controller
Cruise Control
Windshield washer pump
Another connector attached to the same tub (might be a level meter)
Once these connectors are disconnected, you can pull the wire harness out of the way to give you enough room to remove the BLOWER MOTOR CONTROLLER.
Use 8mm bolt (its a tight fit) I have an air ratchet, so I didn't have to try to swing a handle - if you don;t have the air ratchet, you MAY have to remove the air cleaner, air cleaner housing, and the coolant and washer fluid reservoir.. It's not hard, but just a few extra minutes.
Once removed, you can see the hole (rectangular) at the (imagine the blower motor housing is a clock) 5 o'clock position...
In this picture, you can see the old 1996 version of the blower motor controller . The high amperage connections are perpendicular to the smaller reference wires.
Your new controller, will NOT accept the connector from the old harness - SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET THE PIGTAIL - I didn't find it, and had to butcher my connection..
I crimped on Blade terminals to some wire (3 14guage for the reference, and 12 guage for the power)
I screwed down the Controller with the pigtails sticking out, so I could test the system before I made my final connection..
Here is the connection I made.
.
The wrap up, was a whole lot of electrical tape, trying to seal up the connections. You need to make sure that they are tight, clean and protected since the environment is harsh.
The system works perfectly now, and I'm happy to have saved hundreds of dollars with a little elbow grease.
Special thanks to....
ians952
scucci
for having the same problem, and the solution to it.