How to get fuel testing gauge in cab?

[freak]

!998 Ranger 3.0. 1 out of every 4-5 starts results in rough idle for 20 seconds then runs perfect. I'm thinking fuel pressure problems. I have an ok fuel pressure gauge kit from amazon but I'd like to get the gauge in the cab so I can see it when starting for a few days. Need a long hose obviously but does anyone have any good ideas how to do this?

 

[CDW6212R]

The fuel will ruin most any hose that comes with a fuel pressure tester, don't leave gas in that line for long at all. You don't want that gauge inside the vehicle at all or only very briefly with testing. I strapped a FP tester to my cowl one time while I drove it about two miles, a good 17 years ago. That was a normal FP testing kit like parts stores rent. The hose is long enough to reach close to the windshield, you should try to check it for only a short time, and then remove it to preserve the hose. You could do that multiple times if needed for conditions. But try hard not to leave it connected for long, the fuel is very bad for the rubber hose.

 

[freak]

The fuel will ruin most any hose that comes with a fuel pressure tester, don't leave gas in that line for long at all. You don't want that gauge inside the vehicle at all or only very briefly with testing. I strapped a FP tester to my cowl one time while I drove it about two miles, a good 17 years ago. That was a normal FP testing kit like parts stores rent. The hose is long enough to reach close to the windshield, you should try to check it for only a short time, and then remove it to preserve the hose. You could do that multiple times if needed for conditions. But try hard not to leave it connected for long, the fuel is very bad for the rubber hose.

I may need a few days though before the problem repeats is the issue.

 

[Pete Deering]

I may need a few days though before the problem repeats is the issue.

Do you have problems with starts after the engine is warm? Example start the car up when cold, driving for 3 mile ( engine warm), shutting off the car waiting 5 min and starting up the engine away. Does idle or stalls?
Do you have code reader that reads live data?

 

[J_C]

IMO you don't need that. It happens often enough that you can just have the hood open and measure fuel pressure when it happens.

However, I'm doubting fuel pressure is your problem. When a fuel pump goes out, (or pressure regulator) it tends to stay that way, or else the pump commutator lands on a bad spot and doesn't start, but if it does spin, fuel pressure is okay.

I had this happen to my '98 when I had old plugs and wires and replacing them fixed it. Otherwise, I'd check the temp sensor readings, maybe not registering as cold as it is so too lean. Also check battery voltage, low voltage could cause misfires till the alternator brings it back up to good voltage.

Old fuel can also cause this in cold weather, doesn't have enough volatile fumes and just deposits on cylinder walls, or partially clogged injectors.

I'm just throwing a few ideas out there, do any seem relevant?

If you had completed your forum profile so we knew what region you are in, then we'd have a better idea of what ambient temperatures you're facing right now. It could be relevant, since the problem goes away after 20 seconds.

 

[C420sailor]

You’d want to install an electric gauge with a pressure sender. You can mount it to the Schrader valve on the rail, with some fittings/adapters.

 

[cober]

wt

 

[freak]

Do you have problems with starts after the engine is warm? Example start the car up when cold, driving for 3 mile ( engine warm), shutting off the car waiting 5 min and starting up the engine away. Does idle or stalls?
Do you have code reader that reads live data?

Not sure about warm starts, Never stalls, just runs rough for 20 seconds or so. Yeah I can read the stream but I don't think fuel pressure is available.

 

[freak]

You’d want to install an electric gauge with a pressure sender. You can mount it to the Schrader valve on the rail, with some fittings/adapters.

Not a bad idea depending on how much a setup like that costs.

 

[freak]

IMO you don't need that. It happens often enough that you can just have the hood open and measure fuel pressure when it happens.

However, I'm doubting fuel pressure is your problem. When a fuel pump goes out, (or pressure regulator) it tends to stay that way, or else the pump commutator lands on a bad spot and doesn't start, but if it does spin, fuel pressure is okay.

I had this happen to my '98 when I had old plugs and wires and replacing them fixed it. Otherwise, I'd check the temp sensor readings, maybe not registering as cold as it is so too lean. Also check battery voltage, low voltage could cause misfires till the alternator brings it back up to good voltage.

Old fuel can also cause this in cold weather, doesn't have enough volatile fumes and just deposits on cylinder walls, or partially clogged injectors.

I'm just throwing a few ideas out there, do any seem relevant?

If you had completed your forum profile so we knew what region you are in, then we'd have a better idea of what ambient temperatures you're facing right now. It could be relevant, since the problem goes away after 20 seconds.

It's not always convenient when it happens. Plus it clears up quicker than I could get out and pop the hood. Battery is fine. Injectors are fairly new. One of them failed so I replaced the set. I'll have to check the temp sensor. I was thinking that the pressure was somehow leaking down while sitting.

 

[XploderPhil]

I can usually run my fuel tester out of the back gap of the hood and then tape it to the windshield

 

[Turdle]

Tighten the fuel pump relay sockets. Flaky connection there, and pcm relay socket, is a possible cause.

Also reseat the pcm connector, and, the square connector at firewall.

 

[J_C]

If you had such marginal fuel pressure that it couldn't even handle a little more choke (fuel enrichment) when initially started, it would be far more likely to bog down under load, when you give it throttle while driving.

Even if the pressure was leaking down while sitting (which is something you can check with a fuel pressure gauge before starting the engine), the fuel pump comes on the moment you turn the key to the run position and past it to the start position, and must still be running for the vehicle to stay running at all.

I suppose in theory it might be possible for a leaking injector to flood a cylinder and it misfires until excess fuel is burnt off. I'd have a scan tool on and be ready to monitor live data every time I started the vehicle. 20 seconds isn't much to work with but you might catch something.

Are you sure your spark plugs and wires are good?

 

[freak]

If you had such marginal fuel pressure that it couldn't even handle a little more choke (fuel enrichment) when initially started, it would be far more likely to bog down under load, when you give it throttle while driving.

Even if the pressure was leaking down while sitting (which is something you can check with a fuel pressure gauge before starting the engine), the fuel pump comes on the moment you turn the key to the run position and past it to the start position, and must still be running for the vehicle to stay running at all.

I suppose in theory it might be possible for a leaking injector to flood a cylinder and it misfires until excess fuel is burnt off. I'd have a scan tool on and be ready to monitor live data every time I started the vehicle. 20 seconds isn't much to work with but you might catch something.

Are you sure your spark plugs and wires are good?

Plug are new 2 days ago and problem persists. Wires are probably 3-4 years old so I'll check. Could the fuel pump be slow to spin up so weak pressure at startup then it gets going better?

 

[allmyEXes]

@freak Use a hood mounted gauge pod like this one that I was unable to capture a picture of.
single gauge pod
What is the diameter of the gauge? When you install it, use fuel injection hose. It is manufactured to handle gasoline and the pressure that electric fuel pumps produce. Make the hose just long enough to open the hood. Remove core of the Schrader valve and clamp the hose to the stem. Bond the pod to the hood with two part epoxy or attach with 3-M double sided trim tape.

 

[freak]

@freak Use a hood mounted gauge pod like this one that I was unable to capture a picture of.
single gauge pod
What is the diameter of the gauge? When you install it, use fuel injection hose. It is manufactured to handle gasoline and the pressure that electric fuel pumps produce. Make the hose just long enough to open the hood. Remove core of the Schrader valve and clamp the hose to the stem. Bond the pod to the hood with two part epoxy or attach with 3-M double sided trim tape.

That's a little more pemanent than what I was thinking!

 

[C420sailor]

Oh I thought you wanted a permanent install, like a gauge pod type setup

 

[freak]

Oh I thought you wanted a permanent install, like a gauge pod type setup

No just a gauge laying on the seat to diagnose is good with me.