How to replace upper intake manifold gaskets

[deathscort]

I have my truck at the shop today. It was pretty obvious they didnt want to put on the gaskets at all. They kept telling me that if they done it that the head gasket might blow... The way they explained it made sense... but has anyone on here ever had that problem??

 

[deathscort]

Got it back.... he said he replaced all the gaskets, egr o-ring, spark plugs and wires. The old gaskets were shot. Barely there. But he is saying that now I have a 80% chance of my head gasket blowing now. I just need to know if anyone else had that problem? This is really bothering me...

 

[N83]

I just did this fix on my 99 EB yesterday. I didn't realize until after I got the engine cover off that the instructions/pictures I printed off didn't match the upper intake assembly that I had. Oh well- still worked through it!

The whole job (did upper and lower gaskets) took me 3 hours. The bulk of the time, however, was spent on the rear two bolts of the upper intake. Those little ****s... I wish I had a 3/8" extension with a u-joint.

Anyway, went out to start the truck this morning (air temp was around 50F) and it fired right up with no stumbles! I'm glad that I don't have to worry about difficult starts again this fall/winter!

 

[Maximo]

I have a 1998 ranger XLT with the 4.0 and have struggled with this issue for a long time. Long story short, last weekend I replaced all of the gaskets and plugs and whhen I fired it up I had a knock. A bad one. Sounds like metal on metal. Had the guy next door who does more work on cars than I do and he said it runs fine, no codes. Just has a knock. He thought it could have been a rocker hitting the top of the valve cover but he opened it up and said they were in spec.

Knock gets faster with extra throttle. A couple people have said maybe a bearing went bad during the surgery. But I just don't know. Any ideas?

Edit: If it is cam bearing or something else expensive. I am thinking about parting it out.

 

[astrochimp]

Just to add to this since I used this thread to replace my upper and lower.
The upper gaskets really didn't look bad at all so I decided to change the lowers since it was all apart. the lower intake bolt heads are mickey mouse, not happy with whoever spec'd those out. ANYWAYS
the lower intake gaskets were flush(if that) with the deck of the intake. The NEW gaskets were at least 50% taller.
Seems to have fixed the cold start issue. My check engine light has even turned off for now.
SEE PIC..
look at about 10 oclock, no way those are sealing any air leaks

 

[MurrayHardcash]

Blown fuse, Any ideas? Explorer

the problem is the fuse for the power windows blows out every few days.When this happens all the windows don't work & the 4 wheel drive lights on the dash flash on and off also the dome lite does not work. I have had this to several auto shops to try and fix it,one shop said the windows are wired through the electronic transfer case which was changed. No luck there.Another shop said the short was in the harness that is on the front driver door. No luck there. If anyone has encountered this problem in your club any help would be appreciated. I have already spent over $700 on this and don't want to keep putting money in this truck with no results. The truck only has 66,000 mi. on it I would be forced to get rid of it soon if I can't get it repaired.

 

[travsbengals]

Hi people!

I'm trying to replace my gaskets on my 97 4.0 OHV explorer. I've got blown head gasket, and I don't have much experience, but I can't afford $2Gs to pay someone to fix it. I got all the hoses and connectors disconnected from the upper intake. Stupid intake is stuck on the EGR tube as seems to be a regular problem. Something I read told me to remove the EGR intake tube that runs from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold. There are 2 nuts there where the tube connects to the exhaust manifold, and I tried to loosen the upper nut but both nuts turned. So I stopped. I'm concerned that might have screwed something up.

http://s1168.photobucket.com/albums/r489/travsbengals/?action=view&current=P10100022-1.jpg

I turned the nut on the right, on the tube. but the other nut and the round piece going into the exhaust manifold turned as well.

I still don't know how I'm gonna get the intake off that EGR tube but for now I'm more concerned about whether I broke something

Thoughts?

Thanks guys!

Trav

 

[travsbengals]

ok, so I unbolted the EGR tube from the connection at the valve where it then runs up to the intake. The whole EGR tube is loose now though, it just rotates from where the valve is all the way down into the exhaust manifold. I tried to tighten the nut where the EGR tube connects to the exhaust manifold but it won't go back tight

Geeze, I hope i didn't break it

 

[jeano7]

high guys, i have a ford explorer 2000 xls ohv model, i have a problem on burning gas and rough idling. i have change the head cylinder which was overheating and blown, but it seems there is one vacuum that comes from the fuel line to the intake on the left side when standing in front of the car, and there is another valve that has a head like a tire valve where to pump the air, i am asking is the missing vacum going there since i cannot see a vacuum map of this car......... if anyone has any idea please help me on this.......

 

[Old_Horse]

Hope this gets seen . . .

I had the 0171 and 0174 codes pop up on my truck.
After a little research on here, I pinpointed the intake gaskets. Aha!

This past Saturday, a buddy and I replaced the gaskets. All went well, truck started right up, and the CEL was off.

. . . for about an hour.

So it's back. I took the truck to Advance Auto Parts, and their scanner read the same codes again: 0171 and 0174.

Other possibilities?

EDIT: I noticed a lot of people with the same codes complain of rough-running engines. I don't have that problem. Engine always starts right up, runs fine, no problems. Just the damn CEL . . . I really need to get this thing inspected, and I can't until I fix the CEL.

 

[Flingattows]

Hope this gets seen . . .

I had the 0171 and 0174 codes pop up on my truck.
After a little research on here, I pinpointed the intake gaskets. Aha!

This past Saturday, a buddy and I replaced the gaskets. All went well, truck started right up, and the CEL was off.

. . . for about an hour.

So it's back. I took the truck to Advance Auto Parts, and their scanner read the same codes again: 0171 and 0174.

Other possibilities?

EDIT: I noticed a lot of people with the same codes complain of rough-running engines. I don't have that problem. Engine always starts right up, runs fine, no problems. Just the damn CEL . . . I really need to get this thing inspected, and I can't until I fix the CEL.

I had been fighting the same codes on my 99 for a long while. I have been following this thread and another over here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120726.

I ended up buying a new set of head from Alabama Cylinder Head co, and a cylinder head gasket set from Rock Auto (both places had the best prices that I could find). I changed both heads; it took me, a novice, about 13 hours. That included scrubbing and degreasing parts. I understand that it books somewhere around 9-10 hours.

I did find the driver side head gasket appears to have a minor leak, and the coolant was kind of brown. Looks like the previous owner put a can of Barrs stop leak in it. No codes for 3 weeks, knock on wood.

So, to land the plane, I took the shotgun approach and had new heads to put on, because this is my wifes daily driver. I could not afford to take the top end apart and find a warped or cracked head, and not be able to complete the job that weekend. So for me, it was $500.00 well spent

 

[HEDNOUT]

Just changed the intake gaskets with info obtained off this site. 3-2000 build, 4.0 SOHC. I would reccomend getting the pvc hose that goes down in the intake valley before starting, and the temp gage sensor and the ect sensor, there is almost no way to change them without pulling the manifold again. Also get the little o ring for the EGR tube as you will want to change it. Get a couple cans of carb cleaner to clean off the throttle body while you have it out. Car runs perfect now, the intake gaskets were really brittle, I can see why they leaked. I found vasaline worked great for holding gaskets in while replacing. Also take the spark plug loom off the back of the manifold and you get another inch to work with. I did not remove the ECM harness as some reccomend. The back 2 bolts are hard to get to, but a small ratchet and a universal will work it out. Thanks to the forum this car runs great now, keep up the good posts!

 

[sypher9]

Sorry to revive this thread, but I just wanted to share my experience here. First off I wanted to thank kaiser for the write up, it has helped me tremendously. I have a 97 ranger 4.0 4x4. Using the part numbers provided in the thread earlier I picked up the gaskets for my truck as well as a set for a 98 ranger since they seem to be the same. The upper gaskets are, but the lower gasket included in the set for the 98 will not work on a 97 model. The lower intake gasket that came in that kit was about 1/4" thick. After speaking with advanced auto they do have the correct gasket but it only seems to come in a set for the gaskets for the intake manifold. I didn't really want to spend $90 for a bunch of gaskets I wasn't going to use. After doing some further research I found a more cost effective solution. You can order a valve cover gasket set, part #50368 which includes the correct lower intake gasket for the 97 model. I didn't need the valve cover gaskets, but it was alot cheaper than what the guys at advanced wanted to sell me. Sorry if this was covered previously, but I didn't find this option at first because it only appears when you search for valve cover gaskets; not intake or fuel rail.

 

[trinc]

searching for lean code answers i ran across this thread. after testing all the vacuum lines & connections ( propane ), cleaning MAF and IAC i removed intake & replaced the gaskets... like many, the rubber gaskets were hard as a rock.

I only have a couple miles on it so time will tell if this was the fix but a big thanks for keeping this thread ( with pictures ) on the web !

Tim

 

[KaiserM715]

First off I wanted to thank kaiser for the write up, it has helped me tremendously.

You're welcome. Glad it helped.

 

[djsonixx]

Same problem

I have the same problem. After replacing the maf it runs better but still throws those same two codes. Im going to have to do these gaskets but mine is a 98 4.0 ohv with egr any recommendations for getting that egr tube off without removing the while tube ?

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

On my 2000, I loosened the 2 bolts that attach the
EGR valve; this gave enough play to lift off the
plenum. I didn't need to touch the main EGR tube
that runs from the manifold to the EGR valve.

Not sure if the 98 is the same...?

 

[HEDNOUT]

Stuck Intake Manifold 4.0 OHV

This worked for me on a Ranger 98 4.0 OHV. The manifold was really stuck to the EGR. Remove the throttle body as part of the process, spray PB blaster/wd40 into the recess where the EGR tube comes into the manifold. Try to get a good amount around the o ring in there. You can spray some underneath from the outside too. Then get a pretty good size hammer and place the handle so it is in space between the manifold and the EGR bracket, then twist the hammer so it applys some pressure to the manifold and (lightly tap/pound) with your palm against the manifold around the EGR area. This let it pop up without undue pressure or cracking. Replace the O ring. I was able to just replace the upper gaskets and it ran fine and passed smog the next day. Clean your MAF at the same time as changing these gaskets.

 

[MooneyIFly]

PERFECT.. took about 1.5 hrs.

Thanks to Kaiser for the EXCELLENT post. I can't wait for it to get cold now to see if the leak is fixed! I'm sure it is.
Got the external TORX sockets from Harbor Freight for $8.00 and the gasket from Rock Auto.
Mine is a 2000 Ranger 4.0L and I left the coil assembly there and just pulled the spark plug wires... MARK THEM IF YOU DO THIS ! I had two swapped when I put it together but it was quickly resolved.

 

[egbutler1]

So it should come out of the intake with some pressure? I was trying everything I could to get this sucker out. I guess I will try what your saying. I am just fearful of cracking the intake, but it shouldn't give me problems now.

Also thanks everyone so much for all the great advice over the years. I never signed up till today because I just followed everyone's posts and it generally worked out great, until today when I couldn't get the intake completely free. Thanks for saving me money, and helping me learn so much by showing me the way.

Emerson