How to replace upper intake manifold gaskets | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to replace upper intake manifold gaskets

Is there not a gasket on top of the fuel rail in this photo???

DSCF0972.jpg
 



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I do see a gasket where Silicone Orings should be mounted in upper plenum. LOL
 






Well, yeah....I see that now....but my question is how come two autoparts stores I've been to, as well as my parts department at work (and the people they deal with) can't find one listed for it. And what about the egr tube?
 






the rubber ring for the egr tube that goes into the upper intake manafold. if you cant find a new ring at a parts store ( no parts store could find one for me)take your old stock one to a dealership it will have a part number on it that is only any good for the stealership. they can get you a new one for about 13$ . what a rip! so i got pissed off and grabed some thick generic o rings from a plumbing department , they have done the job so far.
 






Not only does the photo above show a paper gasket on top of the fuel rail portion of the manifold, but the photo of the assembly diagram in post #27 also shows a paper gasket on the fuel rail AND the rubber gaskets.

Are we all missing something or is this another one of Ford's better ideas? (Plastic seals to rubber seals to silicone coated paper seals to aluminum???)
 






thanks this was helpfull in fixing my problem
 






EDIT: okay actually read through and found my answer

i'm just about to put the new gaskets in and i'm wondering a few things...
first where do i want to put them? saying how they go between 2 parts do i want to lay them down then drop the intake on top? or seal them to the intake n lay it down?

also where i do want to put my silicone sealant?

great thread n thnx alot
 






put the rubber o-ring gaskets into the upper plenum before laying it down. the fuel rail gasket should be installed prior, and i recommend new intake manifold studs to go along with it being as they break almost every time when torqueing the upper plenum down on the fuel rail.
 






Make a note - you never use silicon on intake/exhaust/engine oil areas. If the out-gassing gets to the oxygen sensors, it will destroy them!

Just buy sensor safe RTV. Shoot...I didn't know you could even buy the unsafe stuff anymore.
 






i have a dumb question in regards to this thread

when replacing the o rings and putting the rail back in place do i put the o-rings on the top of the injectors then rest the fuel rail down on top of them or do i put the o-rings in the slots in the rail then press down onto the injectors?
i know it is a dumb kinda of question but i have never done injectors before 2 days ago and know i have 6 blown o-rings. i tried putting them in the fuel trail then pressing down and now before i buy 6 more i would like some input. sorry for bugging everyone
 






attachment.php

This picture shows the injectors with the rings on the right one - the left does not have the top oring installed.
The right is a good example of a leaking bottom oring as it sucked dirt and grease past the ring...
Always put the orings on the injectors first. Lube them up with oil so they slide in easier...
 






i got it after the 4th try, i was using motor oil like it said to lube em but it kept pinching the rings so i tried vasoline like the garage said and it worked great
 






good 10w-30 works everytime
 






rough idle

The posts for locating and correcting a rough idle problem were very helpful. I went through all of the posts related to sensor cleaning.:thumbsup:

When I started to work on the problem, liquid would splash out of a drink sitting in the center console cup holders.:(

Each cleaning episode seemed to slightly improve the problem. Finally replaced the intake manifold gaskets and corrected the rough idle....but only when the engine is in park or neutral.

The engine still has some roughness when shifted into drive......not nearly as much as before the intake manifold gaskets were replaced.

What next?
 












1992 Ford Explorer Eddy Bower, 300 thousand mile second trammssion original egine, leatly it has a problem, i move from louisiana to georgia , it is winter , and every morning is the same it idles below 100 rpn if i warmed it up its still have a rough idle , if i stop the idle goes below 100 and tries to turn off, i read some say its IAC need to be clean with carburator fuilds or some say eletric equipment fluid, or o rigs, MAF,DPFE Sensor, or DPFE hoses, my lights fliker my battery gauge flikers out of control, but if i push the pedal to 100 to 200 rpm it goes aways the flicker and gauge settles, but still hisistation is felt any ideas
 






Hi I own a 96 Ford Explorer I just found the site today when trying to look up Fuel rails because I just replaced lower intake gaskets (this site would've really helped expecially the pictures (some seem to be missing)) and after installing fuel rail to spec and putting fuel lines back on I've noticed that I had one threaded port still open on the drivers side my haynes book doesn't seem to talk about it and I don't remember taking anything off of it. Is this supposed to be left open? In the illustrations on this post I don't see anything ever in it, course i've been wrong before.
Thanks in advance,
SpoonsAreFun
 






I'm confused about the upper intake gasket/gaskets.
Seems like sometimes they are there and others not.

(96 4.0 OHV)
During my engine swap when I removed the upper intake the 3 orings/gaskets were stuck to a paper gasket on top of the fuel rail. I put them back into the upper and they were pliable and seemed to be good.

The used engine didn't have the paper gasket.

When I first bought the explorer while under warranty(approx 3yrs ago) the heads were replaced.

With that I assume all the intake gaskets where replaced. before the engine croaked it idled smooth and the rough idle problem has only occurred with the replacement engine.

I don't get a CEL no mater how long it idles or is driven.

If the paper gasket doesn't belong there then where did it come from?


It's hard to read a thread when people delete their pics from photobucket.( I know it's an old thread.)
 






Yeh I put it back together all worked well then I had a fuel leak some injector (haynes rocking back and forth method gently doesnt seem to work all that well). Tried 3 times finally got everything put together and running smoothly no leaks running better then ever (used 3 cans seafoam) more pep and acceleration better throttle responce. Tried many ways to get the injectors in just right but I finally took off my shoe stood on it with one foot and gave it a more then gentle rocking motion (and used vaseline on the rubbers and the previous attempts I kept slicing them somehow) Just wanted to thank everyone on here the pics (that are still around) are great may I suggest perhaps a way to upload the pics on the actual forum or have pics section a guy can referance too that wont disappear. again THANKS TO EVERYONE for the pics and information I will check back on this site often. Loved saving the money and doing it myself glad the leaks are gone and it runs like a champ im getting better mileage then ever. Found the best way to check for leaks was to connect battery after installing fuel rail turn it over (try not to start it flames will shoot out) and it will prime the rail letting you know if everything is properly seated. CHEERS,
-Spoons
 



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Bolt Problem

Has anyone had to get new bolts for the intake plenum? I was replacing the bolts and stripped the torx head right off a bolt. Does anyone know of another place I can go to get new bolts besides the dealer? Using the dealer is not a big deal, but it's Sunday and I want to put my truck back together today rather than let it sit in the garage for a few days. Any tips would be appreciated!
 






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