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How to: Replace your sway bar / stabilizer bar bushings and end links

toypaseo

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Replaced mine with Moog K700542, the ones with polyurethane bushings.

The hardest part of replacing them was mowing the old ones apart with a hacksaw so I could remove them. I just mowed the first one since nothing was moving. On the other side, after I removed the lower nut and bushing, I tried to pound the second one up with a hammer, and a dead-blow hammer. It was about 1/2 inch from going through. Finally got bored trying, and mowed that one in half also.

Props to [MENTION=72514]Joe Dirt[/MENTION] for the info and pics.
 



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Toucan

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Old thread but very helpful!! I have a question. What if the bar seems to be "worn" a bit. Do you measure at the worn area or an "unworn" area. Or does the new bushing provide for this??? I am planning on changing this weekend.

As a side not: I have found that new rubbers that go on shock absorbers last longer than the rubbers that come with the end links! Also I apply grease to the link spacer!
 






J_C

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Old thread but very helpful!! I have a question. What if the bar seems to be "worn" a bit. Do you measure at the worn area or an "unworn" area. Or does the new bushing provide for this??? I am planning on changing this weekend.

As a side not: I have found that new rubbers that go on shock absorbers last longer than the rubbers that come with the end links! Also I apply grease to the link spacer!

I wouldn't have thought the bar wore enough to do more than scrub rust and paint off, but you'd measure where the bushing sits since the measurement applies to bushing size. I state this with the assumption that the brackets holding the bushings are the same size with different bar diameter - if in doubt then measure the non-worn area instead but if the bar is in that bad a shape it might be a candidate for replacement.

My end link rubber was acceptable still at the point where the end link rusted through and broke, but polyurethane bushings should last longer. Rock Auto and others have the poly sets but possibly not at local auto parts stores.
 






Toucan

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I wouldn't have thought the bar wore enough to do more than scrub rust and paint off, but you'd measure where the bushing sits since the measurement applies to bushing size. I state this with the assumption that the brackets holding the bushings are the same size with different bar diameter - if in doubt then measure the non-worn area instead but if the bar is in that bad a shape it might be a candidate for replacement.

My end link rubber was acceptable still at the point where the end link rusted through and broke, but polyurethane bushings should last longer. Rock Auto and others have the poly sets but possibly not at local auto parts stores.

Thanks JC. I used the word seems because I have not moved anything yet. I like to read references before I "attack lol". Yes I am planning on taking both measurements. And then sit with my suppliers techinicians.

I live in a suburban area where they forgot to completely pave streets. So, I change link rubbers twice a year, using shocks rubbers for replacement. I change the whole kit after two rubber changes. Truly applying No. 2 grease on bolts before sliding on spacers helps a lot.

Streets have now been fully concreted! Thanks to municipal elections next Wednesday lol!!!

Thanks again. Not sure what I will find once I remove bar bushings!! By the way to measure the bar I used a "C" clamp and large adjustable spanner - both giving same measurement!
 






swshawaii

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Toucan- Take a look at this mod. I was continually blowing out Moog's thermoplastic rubber end link bushings until I did this. IMO, polyurethane is much better suited for end links in terms of durability. Going on four years with this setup, very solid feel.

Here's an ES poly kit for your '98, but it includes their 3/8" diameter end links. I don't believe ES sells the frame bushings separately. Check if yours is 34mm (1.33") using a large adjustable crescent wrench if you don't have a caliper. Poly is also the way to go here.
 






Toucan

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Toucan- Take a look at this mod. I was continually blowing out Moog's thermoplastic rubber end link bushings until I did this.
IMO, polyurethane is much better suited for end links in terms of durability. Going on four years with this setup, very solid feel.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2791778&postcount=10

Here's an ES poly kit for your '98 but it includes their 3/8" diameter end links. I don't think ES sells the frame bushings separately.
Check if yours is 34mm (1.33") using a large adjustable crescent wrench if you don't have a caliper. Poly is also the way to go here.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5155

Ok, thanks! Now to do some shopping. I am in Belize, Central America. So heading to the large Westrac setup. Or the Ford agency! or NAPA!!!

Thanks all. Will post experience.
 






lycan91

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What type of grease should I use? Just silicone? I got the moogs for my 96.
 






toypaseo

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Been noticing my Explorer riding like a boat. Side to side. Finally looked under my front end to see if the shocks are fully blown. Looked to see how the Moog K700542 are doing, and one of them is 100% missing :eek: Guess some sort of threadlocker might be needed :scratch: I am going to contact Moog and see what they suggest.

Replaced mine with Moog K700542, the ones with polyurethane bushings.

The hardest part of replacing them was mowing the old ones apart with a hacksaw so I could remove them. I just mowed the first one since nothing was moving. On the other side, after I removed the lower nut and bushing, I tried to pound the second one up with a hammer, and a dead-blow hammer. It was about 1/2 inch from going through. Finally got bored trying, and mowed that one in half also.

Props to [MENTION=72514]Joe Dirt[/MENTION] for the info and pics.
 






J_C

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Looked to see how the Moog K700542 are doing, and one of them is 100% missing :eek: Guess some sort of threadlocker might be needed :scratch: I am going to contact Moog and see what they suggest.

A couple of Amazon reviewers mentioned that theirs snapped unexpectedly. I'm wondering if that happened to yours as it seems less likely that the entire (unbroken) bolt would work its way out the top if the problem was only the nut unscrewing off the bottom. That is, I am assuming if I recall correctly, that the nut end is facing down, no? I guess they could be installed either way tho'?
 






toypaseo

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A couple of Amazon reviewers mentioned that theirs snapped unexpectedly. I'm wondering if that happened to yours as it seems less likely that the entire (unbroken) bolt would work its way out the top if the problem was only the nut unscrewing off the bottom. That is, I am assuming if I recall correctly, that the nut end is facing down, no? I guess they could be installed either way tho'?

I didn't look closely, but I am guessing two things happened.
  • I put the "barrel lock nut" on the top, and that loosened or broke.
  • The top of the grade 8 bolt broke off.

Either of those would explain the whole thing missing :dunno: I did hear a pop/bang/snap like a bolt broke while leaving my driveway or going over a huge dippy railroad crossing at one point.

I'll have to read the Amazon reviews about snapping...
 






campagnj

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Anybody still here from this original thread? Joe? This is awesome except that all the pics are unavaialable. I have to tackle thisd this weekend. Any help is appreciated!
 






2000StreetRod

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Anybody still here from this original thread? Joe? This is awesome except that all the pics are unavaialable. I have to tackle thisd this weekend. Any help is appreciated!

Here's a link to my brief description:

 






J_C

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Anybody still here from this original thread? Joe? This is awesome except that all the pics are unavaialable. I have to tackle thisd this weekend. Any help is appreciated!
I archived this as a PDF before the pictures disappeared, at least the opening post with all the pics:

https://mega.nz/#!HQ4AFYIb!IG6GRPklT4wADrkul478h-OfPc1x-hAwMVGsozqfV_M

The process is pretty straightforward. IMO the main things to remember are don't jack up (only) one wheel at a time (I didn't need to jack it up at all) so you aren't fighting the sway bar, and note the orientation of the sway bar so it isn't put back on upside down.

There's an upward bend in the bar arms to clear the steering as shown on the last two pictures. If the end links are rusty a small angle grinder can help get them cut off.
 






Turdle

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I archived this as a PDF before the pictures disappeared, at least the opening post with all the pics:

https://mega.nz/#!HQ4AFYIb!IG6GRPklT4wADrkul478h-OfPc1x-hAwMVGsozqfV_M

another awesome move! Thanks!. I will edit the first post with this link.
Edit edit
Annnd, I can't do that either. even though the picture links do not open for others, there are more than 10 , so editing the first post results in an error message asking me to post less than 10 pictures. What the fudge?
 






J_C

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