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How to: How To: Transfer Case Fluid Change (Photo thread)

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Thanks! I did this myself thanks to you.
 



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Good pics

Great job but you forgot to let people know you have to remove the skid plate. On my 98 mountaineer you have to remove the skid plate.
 






Hey everybody, new to the forum. Just picked up a 98 Explorer, EB, AWD, 5.0. Wanted to change all of the fluids before i really start driving it and found this post. My t-case doesn't look like the one in the OP's pictures, the drain and fill plugs are a lot closer together towards the right.

I'm guessing i still follow the same steps, it's just a different layout?

16j0u9v.jpg
 






psykobrat, it looks like a BW4404 which has a viscous coupling for the AWD. Procedure looks the same and uses Mercon-rated ATF.
 






psykobrat, it looks like a BW4404 which has a viscous coupling for the AWD. Procedure looks the same and uses Mercon-rated ATF.
Awesome, thanks. I just replaced the fluid in the front and rear diff and transfer case. Front diff I only got about 1/2 quart out of using hose and pump, it's looked and smelled okay (well, terrible, but like normal gear oil). Rear I took the cover off and replaced the gasket and all fluid, again, didn't look or smell bad. The transfer case fluid was near black. I'm guessing it was never replaced, so it's good I got as much as I could through the drain hole and pumped some more. I also did the trans, again, looked and smelled alright. The dipstick plug was still in there, so not sure if its ever been done. I'm sure it's happy it has all new fluids.
 






Awesome, thanks. I just replaced the fluid in the front and rear diff and transfer case. Front diff I only got about 1/2 quart out of using hose and pump, it's looked and smelled okay (well, terrible, but like normal gear oil). Rear I took the cover off and replaced the gasket and all fluid, again, didn't look or smell bad. The transfer case fluid was near black. I'm guessing it was never replaced, so it's good I got as much as I could through the drain hole and pumped some more. I also did the trans, again, looked and smelled alright. The dipstick plug was still in there, so not sure if its ever been done. I'm sure it's happy it has all new fluids.
Clean fluids make for a happy car!
 






I recently changed the oil in my 1994's transfer case and made a crappy video about it. It pretty much applies to most transfer cases but is specifically done on the BW1354.
 






OK, I am going to tackle a full fluid change after this weekend and was wondering if I could get somewhat precise numbers on what to buy.

I have a 1994 Explorer I purchased yesterday. Before I drive a used vehic anywhere, I try to do my bet to do the whole Lube/oil/filter change.

On my vehicle, I know I need 5Qt oil and filter for the engine oil. What weight and how much fluids do I need to change Transmission, front and rear differentials and Transfer Case? I asl it in simple numbers as the first time I did this, I ended up make 4 runs to the store. last time I did this, I ended up with a lot of leftovers, lol

Thanks everyone.
 






I'd grab 4 or 5 4-quart (1 gallon) jugs of Valvoline MaxLife ATF for the transmission. Do that first with the cooler line disconnect and pump-out method (though I suggest adding some kind of filter to the cooler line first, see my signature).
If you have a few quarts left, do the transfer case and power steering pump.

For gear oil, I think you'll need a little more than a 1-gallon jug. It's far over-kill but I would grab 2 1-gallon jugs, use a hand pump to pump out as much of the front & rear diff fluid as you can and then fill with the same hand pump. Run that for a few months or a thousand miles (with some mileage on the front, if nothing else just lock the hubs in 2wd). Then change it out for some synthetic fluid like Mobil 1 75w-90. The diffs will be set for the life of the vehicle at that point.
 






OK, I am going to tackle a full fluid change after this weekend and was wondering if I could get somewhat precise numbers on what to buy.

I have a 1994 Explorer I purchased yesterday. Before I drive a used vehic anywhere, I try to do my bet to do the whole Lube/oil/filter change.

On my vehicle, I know I need 5Qt oil and filter for the engine oil. What weight and how much fluids do I need to change Transmission, front and rear differentials and Transfer Case? I asl it in simple numbers as the first time I did this, I ended up make 4 runs to the store. last time I did this, I ended up with a lot of leftovers, lol

Thanks everyone.

I'd grab 4 or 5 4-quart (1 gallon) jugs of Valvoline MaxLife ATF for the transmission. Do that first with the cooler line disconnect and pump-out method (though I suggest adding some kind of filter to the cooler line first, see my signature).
If you have a few quarts left, do the transfer case and power steering pump.

For gear oil, I think you'll need a little more than a 1-gallon jug. It's far over-kill but I would grab 2 1-gallon jugs, use a hand pump to pump out as much of the front & rear diff fluid as you can and then fill with the same hand pump. Run that for a few months or a thousand miles (with some mileage on the front, if nothing else just lock the hubs in 2wd). Then change it out for some synthetic fluid like Mobil 1 75w-90. The diffs will be set for the life of the vehicle at that point.

I just did this last night and the Transfer case uses just about 2 quarts. Easy dump and fill. I use regular ATF. I think it was mercon rated

The transmission is more complicated. I did a drain and fill and used 3 quarts. I did not drop the pan. But up to 7 quarts on one account if you drop the pan/filter and let it drain over night. There is a very good thread on the topic. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/5r55w-fluid-fill.118654/

BTW the transmission calls for Mercon V. Valvoline MaxLife is not mercon V rated, but mercon LV rated. I think this is a a much thinner ATF than MercV.

As for the diff. The rear 2 quarts and the front 1. I think there are several different diffs and it ranges from using 75-90, 80-90, 75-140. Some even ask for a friction modifier. As far as I am concerned 75-90 and 80-90 are the same thing. But 75/80-140 is WAY thicker. The owners manual list the right oils in the back .
 






I just did this last night and the Transfer case uses just about 2 quarts. Easy dump and fill. I use regular ATF. I think it was mercon rated

The transmission is more complicated. I did a drain and fill and used 3 quarts. I did not drop the pan. But up to 7 quarts on one account if you drop the pan/filter and let it drain over night. There is a very good thread on the topic. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/5r55w-fluid-fill.118654/

BTW the transmission calls for Mercon V. Valvoline MaxLife is not mercon V rated, but mercon LV rated. I think this is a a much thinner ATF than MercV.

As for the diff. The rear 2 quarts and the front 1. I think there are several different diffs and it ranges from using 75-90, 80-90, 75-140. Some even ask for a friction modifier. As far as I am concerned 75-90 and 80-90 are the same thing. But 75/80-140 is WAY thicker. The owners manual list the right oils in the back .

I don't believe that TSB that Ford put out calls for Mercon V in the A4LD trans. Might work though. I personally use Maxlife in my A4LD for the last 2-3 years and have had no problem. I asked Valvoline and they said it is good for the application.

I know for sure you can't get away with 3 quarts doing both the front and rear diff. A 1-gallon bottle is barely enough. The Owner's Guide in my signature lists 2.75 quarts for the rear and 1.75 quarts for the front. That's 4.5 quarts total. Granted, you won't get all the fluid out of the front and depending on how the vehicle is parked, a 1-gallon bottle would suffice.
As far as limited slip additive, it's only needed if you have the "Traction-Lok" rear which the door sticker lists with a D in front of a number such as D4 for 3.73 Traction-Lok rear. Using a synthetic gear oil negates the need for additive because it's included. I personally use Mobil 1 LS 75w-90 and have no chattering and still lay 2 tracks in 2wd.
75w-90 vs 80w-90 is really no difference. 75 is typically synthetic, it's just the number they arrived at with the base oils available. If you know that you tow a lot in hot climates, the x-140 may be better but I wouldn't want to use that in cooler climates and it may hurt fuel economy (lol in an Explorer).
 






I don't believe that TSB that Ford put out calls for Mercon V in the A4LD trans. Might work though. I personally use Maxlife in my A4LD for the last 2-3 years and have had no problem. I asked Valvoline and they said it is good for the application.
.

Forget that this forum is all years, didn't see that it was a 94. I have been studying up on my 2004 and the tranny definitely calls for Merc V.
 






Forget that this forum is all years, didn't see that it was a 94. I have been studying up on my 2004 and the tranny definitely calls for Merc V.
That's what I was thinking when I saw your truck listed under your profile :) Your's definitely does. I'm pretty sure 1995+ was under the TSB for Mercon V. I haven't looked at the fluids available out there but I'd be tempted to use straight Motorcraft fluid in your 2004.
 






WOW!!! Thank you guys. Between the posts, this makes much more sense to me. I took a hit to the head a couple years back and reasoning and comprehension has its moments. Spelling it out like you did takes all the frustration out of all this. Thank yu so very much. Gonna transcrive this all to a notebook so when I walk into AutoZone I'm not doing a DERP and walking out clueless with six bottles of seafoam to make it look like I had a plan.


Saturday is shopping day!!!!
 






Look into the Valvoline full synthetic transfer case fluid. XL-12 equivalent.
 






I decided to change my transfer case fluid since I just went over 77K recently. I don't really know the intervals - but you should check it once you get around 60K. The fluid is just normal Dexron Mercon III ATF- so if you know what burnt transmission fluid looks like and smells like - you know what to look for in your tcase if it needs to be changed. My transfercase is the 4405 Borg-Warner T-case.

The service itself is quiet easy: all you need is a 3/8s raceht, a funnel or pump, drain bucket, and your choice of fluid (3 pints or about 2 quarts worth). :thumbsup:


I did this at my house instead of the shop, so I was limited to a funnel which is kind of tricky to use on a transfercase. Anyhow, first you need to find the drain and fill plugs. I recommend removing the fill plug first to allow air to get into the t-case which will allow the fluid to run out of the drain smoother instead of in "gulps" (people who have done this before know what I mean). Anyhow here's a picture for help:

Drain and Fill Plugs:

000_0706.jpg




Undoing the Fill/Check Plug:

000_0707.jpg



Once you have taken the fill plug out, go ahead and set that aside and get going on the drain plug. Both plugs should be pretty tight (mine had thread sealer on them previously), but putting the plugs back should only be snugged like a oil drain plug. When you are ready to pull the drain plug on the t-case, thread it out with your fingers and set your drain pan underneath it. This should catch all the fluid and you should just let it drip out.

Undoing the drain plug:

000_0708.jpg


Fluid Running Out:

000_0709.jpg




Once it is emptied as good as it's going to get, put the drain plug back in. I like to clean up the area with brake clean, so if for some reason I get a leak, I can pinpoint it easier. Now, time to fill 'er up:

How My Funnel Was:

000_0711.jpg



It worked out quiet well with my driveshaft there. Anyhow, gently fill it up and fill it like a differential - until it starts to flow out of the fill hole. Once it gets the big gushes out and its just lightly letting out - go ahead and put the plug back. Make sure you tighten it:

000_0707.jpg



That's it! You're done. I put Royal Purple synthetic ATF fluid in my transfer case. I am running royal purple in my differentials and t-case now. I am still in search for a Mercon V fully-synthetic fluid (I believe just Amsoil has it right now). Picture of the bottles are below. Hope this was easy enough for you - was pretty easy to me! :thumbsup: Good luck

-Drew

View attachment 31026
Wow cool thread. You really break it down. Question I heard Mercon V causes problems with 4405 and Mercon III is better. Is that true. I'm about to do this on a 4405. Final question draining fluid this way, will you see any debris in your pan if there is some?(troubleshooting)
 






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