How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

[konaboy]

dont feel too bad. I spent over 4 hours trying to get that bolt out and eventually needed someones help to push on those hard lines while i moved the bolt. Ah, the learning experiences!

Welp I got it done and that's exactly what I had to do, buddy pushed on the lines while I spun the bolt and washer to get them through! Man what a pain that was!!!:thumbdwn:

 

[mccoyxx]

I was really dreading this job !!

I replaced my drivers side hub today and noticed the boot on the UCA was ripped apart and its pretty rusty inside. I put a big fingerful of grease in there until I get the new one in, but I thought it was really gonna be a pain to remove the old one. Doesn't look so bad at all ... nicely done .. Thanks Evan

 

[Bucktown_orl]

Hi, I have a 1998 2wd sport and I am about to replace the upper control arms/ball joints and the lower ball joints. My question is about the upper control arms, I am going with the Moog ball joints for the lower, but have found Dorman brand upper control arms cheap on Rock Auto and was wondering if they are any good or just cheap crap. What brand/quality ball joints come with them and are they greasable?

An alignment shop near me here in Orlando quoted me $891.00 to do all four and an alignment. Since I recently did wheel bearings, shocks, and sway links I think I am capable of tackling the Ball joints my self as well.

I dont have a grease gun, but I plan on driving straight to the alignment shop after I install the new Ball joints. Its about 7 miles away. Will they be ok until I get there to have them greased? Ive heard they come with greased but not all he way.

 

[Mike99]

Check you sway bar links, I'd suspect that is what causes your noise over bumps.

I didn't see any issues with the sway bar links - but because they are inexpensive and easy, I changed them anyways. And it seems to have helped with the noise. Thanks.
In the end I replaced both LBJs and both UCAs - and when I went in for the alignment, they said they could not do it, because the camber bolts were not adjustable. The new UCA I put in didn't come with one, so I assumed that was just a part that was to be re-used. According to the shop, the Ford factory ones still on their can't be adjusted. Any one know anything about this??? Where I can find the parts cheap? The last thing I want to do is remove parts I just installed!

 

[scucci]

I didn't see any issues with the sway bar links - but because they are inexpensive and easy, I changed them anyways. And it seems to have helped with the noise. Thanks.
In the end I replaced both LBJs and both UCAs - and when I went in for the alignment, they said they could not do it, because the camber bolts were not adjustable. The new UCA I put in didn't come with one, so I assumed that was just a part that was to be re-used. According to the shop, the Ford factory ones still on their can't be adjusted. Any one know anything about this??? Where I can find the parts cheap? The last thing I want to do is remove parts I just installed!

caster/camber bolt kits:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=504145

 

[juggaloscorpio]

first suspension work on my EX

First off excellent write-up on the UCA's. I have done suspension work on my 300zx so i knew what i was in for but still had the same problems Ford is good for (camber washers suck!!:thumbdwn. This job only took me about 6hrs from start to finish for both uppers (only "removed" drivers for now til next payday) and both lowers. Here are pics of the old ones and my CV axle:

View attachment 56655 View attachment 56656

View attachment 56657

Got a couple questions though:

(95 EX 4X4 XLT everything stock)

1. Do i have to replace the camber washers? I got mine out without an issue(other than the hard lines but that only took some good muscle/brains to remove) and they look in good shape still.

2. When I took off my knuckle there was a peice of rubber that pulled off from the CV axle should i replace the outer CV boot or leave like it is until needed? (No fluids are leaking from where it split see pic above)

 

[CDW6212R]

That large rubber piece is a dust boot, it pushes onto the CV axle. It protects the hub bearings from dust/debris, and cost about $15 from Ford. New axles usually come with those, think about doing that soon.

The stock UCA washers are not "camber" washers, one pair of each does give camber adjustment. The camber washers that you read about are aftermarket only, and for replacing the other washer. That provides more camber adjustment, for large height changes of about "3 or more. Regards,

 

[spitfiresk822]

I just did this over the weekend along with new lowers, tie tod ends(inner and outer), and hubs. When I took it to the alignment shop yesterday they told me one of the camber adjusters was off, and there non adjustable. It was drivers side front. So they told me they had an adjustable and the part would be 25.00 dollars. I told them just to get it done. Then, they told me it was a half hour worth of labor at 82 bucks an hour. I told them I could swap those bolts out in less than 5 minutes, but they told me they couldn't allow me to do that in their shop and they had a half hour minimum labor charge. I said screw it and just git r done. 140 bucks everything including alignment, o well

 

[126andy]

To replace the upper ball joints on the 2001 ford explorer 4 door 4wd I would have to replace the upper control arm or just the ball joint? Thanks

 

[mccoyxx]

Hey Andy ... I am not 100% on this as I am new to Explorers, but from what I have read you must replace the complete control arm. I read somewhere on one of these forums that MOOG makes an aftermarket arm that allows you to replace the balljoint if it wears out later. I also remember it saying that MOOG is King for Explorer parts and that you would probably end up wearing the vehicle out before having to replace them again. .... anyways you could be a cheapie like me as I am currently jobless and on a major budget and get them from Ebay. I got my upper drivers side for I believe $39.16 including S&H and the passenger one piece for $46.36 S&H included. So roughly $85 for both shipping and all. Heres the place I got them from ... they do have very fast shipping I think it took 3 days to get mine in. Item number: 350212273902 . I will hopefully get an income soon and start saving and in a year or so when these fail I will send them back if its still under the 1 year warranty they give ... get new ones to resell on Ebay and replace them with MOOGS .... so its kind of like rental control arms. Its gonna be a lot of trouble and I know you get what you pay for, but unfortunately right now I have to make do with the cheapies. If you have the cash at all go with MOOG !!

 

[126andy]

mccoy--Thanks for the reply, thats probably what I will do go with the moogs

 

[sjdurb]

Hello, my 1998 Explorer Sport has been through hell and back so I ordered a kit that included Control arms, 2 Lower ball joints, and two tie rods.

I'm stuck on the control arm on the drivers side.. I've successfully gone through the pain of getting the rear bolt out past the fuel line, and successfully took the older control arm off..

Now the big problem that I can't figure out... the new control arm doesn't slide into place like the old one did.. it seems to not be as wide as the other (baaarely). I'd expect it to give a little bit of a fight but it's impossible. Sliding each side in individually it seems the left slides in decently, but the right needs to be hammered in almost. If i try to slide both sides in it's about 2mm too short of sliding in on each side...

Has anyone experienced this? Should I have to get a friggen 5lb hammer and try to slam this thing in? Or should I buy a new control arm and hope it works?

 

[CDW6212R]

It may be that the steel mounts on the truck are bent outward a little. I'd beat on those if possible, they should stand straight up as I recall. But yes the arm may need to be tapped in some. Compare the old and new arm, do they turn out to be the same?

 

[sjdurb]

They look like the same size, but when I go to put the new control arm in, it is about 2mm off on each side. Any ideas on bending that metal into a place a bit so I can somehow get the control arm in? I have a feeling if I go buy a new upper control arm it's going to be the same deal.

 

[CDW6212R]

That steel which sandwiches the arms is mild steel. If you know what you are doing, I'd suggest finding a big crowbar and tweaking the pocket open a little.

The last time I did my 99 uppers, I used a grinder to open up the adjustment holes a little. My alignment guy had twice not been able to get enough camber. I'm just pointing out that the vehicles aren't precision instruments, adjust them a little if they need it.

 

[sjdurb]

Thanks, I'll see what I can figure out... So basically if it's too tight of a fit, they wont be able to align the truck correctly?

Egh.. what a pain in the rear.

Another question... before reading these forums I unbolted the control arm not taking note of the position of the cam washers.. what should I do if/when I get this new control arm on?

 

[CDW6212R]

The cam washers are the camber adjustment. Each vehicle is different, but with mine I needed the arms pulled out as far as they would go to be close. You will see how it works when you get the bolts started. As you spin the washers, the space available to turn the nuts/bolts changes. Find the best spot as you run them on, until you get them close to snug. Then pull the arms out and hold the washers in place as you tighten the bolts.

The one bolt around the fuel lines is the hardest part, be patient there, spin the bolt/washer etc.

 

[sjdurb]

Unfortunately I did not note the cam washer positions but i dont see why... You can only get it in a certain way...

I have a bigger problem on my hands. I put it all together and I cannot get the bolt/pin that holds the upper ball joint and the wheel assembly on.. it seems as if my wheel assembly needs to be raised almost an inch, but its as high as it can go based on lower ball joint.

 

[CDW6212R]

The truck should be on jack stands under the frame. Lift the control arm with the jack to get the spindle up high enough to engage the upper ball joint. That extra height will be enough so that you can tap the UCA down into the spindle.

Do not pound it down as far as it will go, the BJ shaft slot will line up with the spindle before bottoming out. Apply anti-seize to the BJ shaft liberally, and in the spindle. The bolt holds it in, so you want that all as slick as it can be for the next time it comes apart. Regards,

 

[mccoyxx]

Well ... I have my new Ebay front end on now ... both sides new hubs, outer tie rod ends, lower balljoints and upper control arms. It may not last long, but it feels like I am in a different vehicle right now ... a couple of questions though ... I had a guy help me with some of it and he didn't notice that one of the small metal bearing plates didn't stay on the UCA ... will that technically hurt anything ? ... my first instinct would be that it will prematurely wear the rubber out, but maybe not I am unsure is why i am asking ... also one more thing ... The new UCA's have no grease plug and the rubber boot doesn't feel like it has any grease in it at all hardly ... could i get a grease needle and stick in the side of the boot and fill it ? ... thanks ... RSM