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Hybrid Dana 35 VS. True Dana 35

Tbars4

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...For anyone with a Ranger that has a Hybrid Dana 35 and wanted to do a True Dana 35 swap, and to those who wanted to know the difference, this threads for you...

...Be sure to check out this thread on the C-clip Eliminator before doing this swap...;)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256302

...A huge Thanks to 90Ranajo and his current build, as if it were not for him, this project may never of happened...:salute:http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245312

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Note A:..This is a what a True Dana 35 looks like inside...All the pictures below noted as "True Dana 35" are shown with an ARB locker installed...
Hybrid_Ranger_035.jpg


...Note B:..On this swap I chose to keep my existing beams and just do the pumpkin swap...:hammer:...To some, it may be easier to swap a complete true Dana 35 in but, I wanted to know all of the in's and outs of my "Hybrid", to a true, Dana 35 swap...:D
____________________________________________________________________________________________

Dana 28 vehicles...
Dana 28 was used on Ranger/BII's up to and thru 1990...This is a transition year so you will need to check the vehicle...

Explorer and Navajo Owners...
All 91-94 Explorer and Navajo's have a true Dana 35 so you will not need to worry if it has a Dana 28 or a Hybrid Dana 35...

Donor vehicles for swapping in a True Dana 35 are as follows..
90-97 Ranger
90 BII (only)
91-94 Explorer
91-94 Navajo

Side Note:
It is common for the vehicles that have the Hybrid Dana 35 to also have a 7.5 rear axle while the vehicles with the true Dana 35 will have the 8.8 rear axle


What years had the "Hybrid"

...The "Hybrid" Dana 35 can only be found on 93-97 Rangers with 2.3L and some 3.0L engines and they usually had 3.73 or 4.10 gears...The "Hybrid" can also be found on 90 - 97 Ford Aerostar AWD's...The hybrid is a considerable upgrade from the old Dana 28, as that from the first U joint out of the pumpkin, it is all Dana 35.

Identification

On a "Hybrid", if you pull the fill plug you will see a bearing cap. On the "True" Dana 35 you will see the carrier.

"Hybrid" on the left, true Dana 35 on the right..
Hybrid_Ranger_003.jpg


...The easiest way to tell if you have a "Hybrid" Dana 35 is by looking at the bottom of the front pumpkin and you can do this by just looking under the Ranger...The "Hybrid" has a smooth pumpkin while the true Dana 35 is ribbed for strength...

Dana 35 on left, "Hybrid" on right...
Hybrid_Ranger_014.jpg


Rough pumpkin measurements
...Measuring the front spacing of the true Dana 35...
Hybrid_Ranger_015.jpg


...Measuring the front spacing of the "Hybrid"...
Hybrid_Ranger_016.jpg


...Double checking the fit to the "hybrid" drivers side axle arm for the gears to fit, and they do...;)
Hybrid_Ranger_017.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_018.jpg


..You can see in these first two pics that the "Hybrid" pumpkin is about 1 1/2" shorter than the true Dana 35 pumpkin...This is why the "Hybrid" front drive shaft is longer and needs to be shortened or replaced after the pumpkin swap...;)

Dana 35...approx. 10 3/4"...
Hybrid_Ranger_004.jpg


"Hybrid"...approx. 9 1/4"...
Hybrid_Ranger_005.jpg


Dana 35...
Hybrid_Ranger_007.jpg


"Hybrid"...
Hybrid_Ranger_006.jpg


Front Driveshaft

...The Hybrid drive shaft is about 1 1/2" plus longer. You will need to either shorten the driveshaft or, just swap in one from a true Dana 35 vehicle...If you don't, you run the risk of at least, cracking your transfer case housing...:rolleyes:
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sticking with the Hybrid Dana 35???...:scratch:

Gears
...For those who already have a hybrid Dana 35 and you want to replace your gears with new gears, you must re-gear with a gear set made specifically for the "Hybrid"...You can not use regular Dana 28 gears...The pinion in a hybrid has a longer shank...Your best bet would be to pull them from a junkyard...

Shafts
...For the "Hybrid" Dana 35 shafts that go into the pumpkin, good luck finding them...This is the common failure point on a "Hybrid"...:(

The "Hybrid" Drive Shaft...
...We did find out, if you pushed a Dana 35 1"+ forward or lifted it higher and needed a longer drive shaft or, you have a solid axle that is moved forward by 1"- 1-1/2", the drive shaft off the Hybrid is perfect for this, as it is longer and a direct replacement...

..:scratch:...And where did the Hybrid front driveshaft wind up finding a home you might ask???...Post #56...;)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246245&page=3
 
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Tbars4

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...The information above gives you the pumpkin swap info but, the following info will help complete your swap...

...This is your Bill of Material (B.O.M.) ...It can be found on back of your passenger side Radius Arm (RA)...The number at the top left of this tag holds all kinds of information to your vehicles parts...Each individual Dana Spicer part also has a number on it which comes in handy for your vehicle, or even if you are searching for Solid Axles for a Swap (SAS)...If you take the numbers and go to this site, it will tell you exactly what parts you have...;)
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/demenu.aspx

Hybrid_Ranger_033.jpg

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Front Driveshaft

...The Hybrid front drive shaft is about 1 1/2" plus longer. You will need to either shorten the driveshaft or, just swap in one from a true Dana 35 vehicle...If you don't, you run the risk of at least, cracking your transfer case housing...

...For proof of the above statement, this picture shows the original "Hybrid" drive shaft in place after installing the larger True Dana 35 pumkin...Note how the boot is compressed...It really took some time to force this back into it's location...

This pic is only for the demonstration of what not to do...
Hybrid_Ranger_023.jpg


Comparing the Front Drive shafts...

...In this pic only, the "Hybrid front drive shaft is on the bottom...
Hybrid_Ranger_030.jpg


...The following pics all show the "Hybrid" front drive shaft on the top...
Hybrid_Ranger_028.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_029.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_027.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_025.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_024.jpg


Comparing Front Axle Shafts...
...If you choose to only swap the pumpkin's and not the beams, (with the True Dana 35 attached), you will need to also swap both shafts entering the pumpkin and the front drive shaft..(info below)

The splines going into the pumpkin are a Dana 28, 23 spline while the rest of the shafts have Dana 35, 27 spline...The "Hybrid splined shaft measures approx. 7/8" wide while the true Dana 35 shaft measures approx. 1 1/8" wide
Hybrid_Ranger_013.jpg


..This is the passenger side stub shaft...Note how the True Dana 35 shaft (on top) is 1-1/4" longer...The rest of the shaft is the same as the True Dana 35 shaft..
Hybrid_Ranger.jpg


...These pics are of the drivers side axle shaft...Again, the "Hybrid shaft is about 1" plus longer...
Hybrid_Ranger_010.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_012.jpg

Hybrid_Ranger_011.jpg
 
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Tbars4

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...Naaa...:shifty_ey... that's a special sump tube for draining the pumpkin...:D
 
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zjrog

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Be careful with that air locker. Earlier D30 and D35 models would loosen the ring gear bolts very regularly...

Thanks for this thread. I know some folks had thought that all the 2.3 trucks had the hybrid, I even checked mine through the fill plug. But with a visual of the pig itself enough to determine, that will be very helpful for lots of folks... (Yes, my 90 2.3 Ranger has a real D35... For now.)
 
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Tbars4

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...Thanks for that info zrog...:biggthump

...I will be posting more info and pics tomorrow...;)
 
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Tbars4

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....I just updated with a bunch of pics and a lot more info...:biggthump
 
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Tbars4

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...It used to rub, it won't no more...:p:
 
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cybergasm

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Wish Truckhaven would get here so we get this Mini Novella over with :cool:
 
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Tbars4

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...My Ranger will look just the same as always for Truckhaven, with the exception of one temporary mod..
 
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Tbars4

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...If anyone is interested, I have a couple front pumpkins for sale...Just slap them on or they are perfect for a re-gear swap...;)
 
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dkchrist

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Ted what are you gonna use to supply that "special sump tube?"

I suggest using a viair compressor or if you have a the scratch an Air Zenith but be sure to use the ARB pressure switch (just a 90-100 psi switch) or regulate the air to the locker.
 
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Tbars4

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dkchrist

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I wondered about that. I have had the RDCKA12 (the previous big compressor) for 3 years and they are ok. From what I know the life on them is somewhat short compared to Viairs and others. They work but are very slow. I really try to avoid using my for anything but the locker so that I can eventually get a better compressor.

Also don't buy the $40 dollar inflation kit. It cost me $15 or so with all the parts and air hose.

Oh, a good site for the ARB style switches in different colors
Over the River and Through the Woods
 
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Tbars4

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...Ive seen the site before but I wish I could find this switch set up...Talk about bling..:biggthump
4161.jpg
 
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Stic-o

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Well that is a mid 2000's TJ hvac, intersting how close it looks to the fords:D

Why not do something like mine?

Bezeldone_.jpg
 
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Tbars4

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...I really like the set up I posted because it's at the ashtray which I don't use and also the 2 tier effect...Mine is just like Section's as it has the separate lighter and ashtray side by side...

...I do like how yours is set up at the radio...What material did you use as the board/panel...???
 
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Stic-o

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...I really like the set up I posted because it's at the ashtray which I don't use and also the 2 tier effect...Mine is just like Section's as it has the separate lighter and ashtray side by side...

...I do like how yours is set up at the radio...What material did you use as the board/panel...???

Ok there is also this from that website which you could replace your ashtray area with.
KJ73.jpg


For mine I used a thick piece of plastic it just sits in there nothing hold it in but the radio bezel surround. The CB is bolts to the stereo with some plumbers strap, so it's one unit. It's pretty solid, never had a problem. and the flat screen is not in there anymore, took it out because it was just to low.
 
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