I hate to ask this

[blackbeauty]

I want a locker. Front or rear.. not sure. Because of flex I think the most effective would be front, it's a 98 sport btw. I don't wheel alot only once or twice a month in the summer but when I wheel, I really wheel . So if i get a front locker will this always be engaged or do i need an Arb for instance. I did search only got more confused. Bottom line either front or rear I want control of the locker. Oh yeah I don't want to break the bank so under $500. Thanks for any help.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

$500 for a locker? Who's going to install it? Aussie Lockers (one of our sponsors) makes lockers for the Dana 35 and the Ford 8.8". Give them a good looking. Lockers aren't suppose to be street driven, so you may want to go with a limited slip.

Limited Slip 101

-Drew

 

[410Fortune]

Hooey!

You can drive on the street with lockers, especially with unlocking hubs up front.
the locker you put in the back you will want to pick carefully if you are concerned about tire wear and street manners.

I would:

ARB up front, Detroit full gearless in the back

 

[blackbeauty]

Thanks for info guys but this is a 98 auto lock, there is no lock/unlock hubs. What if I do the brown wire mod the put an electric lock up front. I want to stay away from air because of the whole compressor thing. That way if I want to I'd have 2wd//4 hi/4low and when I flip the switch to engage 4wd I flip another for the locker. Is that correct or am I being ignorant . If I do decide to do the rear I'll go with Aussie for sure.

 

[410Fortune]

You flip another for the locker? = you are using a selectable locker up front, I think ARB might be your only choice, and this means pneumatic and a compressor/air source of some sort.

Your front end disconnects with vacuum correct? meaning when you are in 2wd the front driveshaft does not spin, because the wheels are not connected to the axleshafts, correct? (same thing as hubs) if this is the case and you put in a full time locker, anytime you are in 4wd hi or 4wd low you will be locked.

I chose to run a selectable locker up front because in the snow I need 4x4 and locked up front with 4x4 = doesnt like to turn, and in snow it downright will get you in a wreck.

 

[taxx]

I chose to run a selectable locker up front because in the snow I need 4x4 and locked up front with 4x4 = doesnt like to turn, and in snow it downright will get you in a wreck.

What he said. Locker in front in snow + 4x4 = go anywhere straight, but you can't turn for crap.


If I was you the most economical thing to do would be put a powertrax no-slip in the rear. Takes some minor adjustments driving on the road but you will notice a TON off difference off road. I say that because for about $350 - $400 you can have the powertrax versus about twice that for an ARB then you need the air compressor. And the rear locker is MUCH easier to install on your truck that a front locker.

Then do the brown wire mod and you can go anywhere in 2low just about that you want to.

The other downside to your truck is the transfer case. You lock the front and it puts more wear on the "clutch type" mechanism inside it that engages the front wheels. Get on something difficult and really put the power to it and that clutch will burn up in no time. Granted I had 35s on when I smoked mine, still just something to think about and consider, there will be a whole lot less wear and tear by locking the rear. And if your only wheeling a couple times a year then I think you will be happy with it.

 

[taxx]

Your front end disconnects with vacuum correct? meaning when you are in 2wd the front driveshaft does not spin, because the wheels are not connected to the axleshafts, correct? (same thing as hubs) if this is the case and you put in a full time locker, anytime you are in 4wd hi or 4wd low you will be locked.

No the CV shafts ALWAYS spin when the fron wheels turn which in turn spins the driveshaft no matter if it is engaged or not.

The brown wire mod he talked about just allows him to put it in low without the clutch inside the t-case engaging the front. Its completely different than your front axle/t-case setup. His CVs are connected directly to the wheels and the t-case.

 

[410Fortune]

cool, I wanted to know this as I have just begun to dabble with the Gen II's rack and pinion, torsion sprung, IFS.

 

[taxx]

 

[mrd]

I believe the front vacuum disconnect will disconnect the right axleshaft from the diff. The left axleshaft and driveshaft are still connected. I suppose this is like having a locker when in 4WD, and open when not. The transfer case has a disconnect mechanism for the front driveshaft when in true 2WD. Front what I've read, AWD is the same as 4WD AUTO (not HI), which is basically the transfer case changing the torque ratio between front & rear driveshafts via some kind of 'viscous coupling' when a loss of traction is sensed (which I think is detected with speed sensors on the driveshafts).*
So I would say, for the front, a locker would be pointless as the vacuum system already provides that functionality, and only when in 4WD, which is very nice. Maybe a diff that can shift the torque between left & right axle shafts, like a LS or those mechanical LS's (I was looking into a Detroit Truetrac). However I'm not sure how a slip differential would mesh with the transfercase in auto mode, given any delay in the change of torque in the front and the response time of the transfercase sensing slippage.

* Now that I mentioned AWD, I am curious whether the vacuum disconnect engages the right axleshaft or not when AWD is active. I had assumed AWD was like 2WD with 4WD kicking in when needed, but it may also lock the front wheels.

 

[boominXplorer]

only the 95-early 97's have the vac disco on it.

 

[wired_af]

Do made Torsens for the front? That could be another possibility.

Edit: nevermind, the Torsen isn't made for the dana 35

 

[mrd]

I've seen Truetracs for the Dana 35 rear.. I wonder if they would also fit in the IFS?

 

[Creager]

I've seen Truetracs for the Dana 35 rear.. I wonder if they would also fit in the IFS?

For your model 35, it should work. Aslong as your D35 is standard rotation, which i believe it is.

Some guys use a truetrac for a jeep D35 on their TTB axles. Its a great idea, except the way it works in reverse (rotation) is not its natural way of slipping. The way the helix gears work is they wedge up against their housing for slippage. When its works in reverse, the helix gears wedge up against the side gears instead of the housing... making the standard rotation Truetrac much weaker in a reverse rotation axle.

 

[410Fortune]

D35 TTB = reverse rotation

D35 IFS = standard rotation.