I need help fixing my Ranger's power window, please take a look

[RangerX]

My Ranger's driver window stopped working, it just makes a rapid skipping clunking. I figure it's those plastic bushings that fall apart inside the motor.
I've read through the stickied thread for removing an Explorer motor, but there are some differences in mine.
I don't have the dimple to show where to drill out a hole to access the third bolt. Can I assume that the 3 bolts form an equilateral triangle?

 

[Scott B.]

Are you sure you don't have the dimple? Mine does.

Yes, the bolts form a more or less equilateral triangle.

Now that I think about it, maybe mine didn't have the dimple. You can reach behind the door frame, and feel where the bolt is. Using that measurement, you can estimate where to drill the hole. Drill it larger than the body of your socket, giving you some wiggle room.

 

[RangerX]

Yeah, I even put my glasses on and looked again!
My motor is down almost at the bottom center of the door, not like up near the speaker like the pics show in the Ex thread.
I'll do the guesstimate drilling and see how close I get. That bolt feels to be right in front of the toothed part of the regulator, at least when it's in the 'up' position.

 

[RangerX]

I drilled out and got access to the 3rd bolt, but the motor is still solidly attached! It appears to have a bracket that runs from a rivet right below the motor. I can't tell if that bracket also supports the regulator in some way.
It also looks to me like the motor is is bolted to the backside of part of the regulator, does that sound right?

 

[Tbars4]

...Either you can send me a ticket to come help ya or, I can give Scott a call..

..Called Scott and he's not home yet..

.:shifty_ey...Manual windows on a Ranger, FTW..:biggthump

 

[Scott B.]

I drilled out and got access to the 3rd bolt, but the motor is still solidly attached! It appears to have a bracket that runs from a rivet right below the motor. I can't tell if that bracket also supports the regulator in some way.
It also looks to me like the motor is is bolted to the backside of part of the regulator, does that sound right?

Yes, I think so. (It's been a while since I've been in there.)

IIRC, there is a bolt at the end of that bracket, going into the door frame. Take that out, and the 3 motor bolts, then the mechanism (not the regulator) will come out.

If you need me to, I can pull off my door panel this weekend and take a closer look.

Tbars - manual windows are fine, but I really like power mirrors.

 

[RangerX]

Here's a pic. At the bottom, you can see the 3 bolt holes, plus a 4th that was the wrong spot.
Just to the left is the rivet that I think needs to be drilled out. It holds a bracket that goes to the motor, behind it.
In the square hole at left center, you can see the toothed part of the regulator.
In the center of pic, there's 4 rivets that I believe hold the regulator.
In the upper right corner, you can see the edge of the speaker, which according to the Explorer thread, covers the dimple to drill out for one bolt hole. This shows how different the Ranger is, and why I'm slightly confused.

 

[RangerX]

Are you sure you don't have the dimple? Mine does.

Scott, you are talking about your '93, correct?

 

[Scott B.]

Scott, you are talking about your '93, correct?

Yes I am, Bill.

Now that I see your picture, I kind of remember drilling out that rivet. It looks like you have access to all 3 bolts, now.

If you are feeling adventuresome, drill the rivet. (I probably replaced it with a #10 stainless bolt and locknut.) If not, I will post a picture of my door tomorrow-ish.

 

[RangerX]

Yeah, after more reading and thinking, I'm ready to drill it. I need to go and get a bolt first. I had to leave my big can of spare bolts behind when I moved.
The regulator will hold the window up in place when the motor is out, correct?

 

[Scott B.]

Yeah, after more reading and thinking, I'm ready to drill it. I need to go and get a bolt first. I had to leave my big can of spare bolts behind when I moved.
The regulator will hold the window up in place when the motor is out, correct?

Yes.

 

[RangerX]

So I got the motor out and opened up. The bushings are in fine shape! I added a little grease, tested it, and re-installed it. Still have a problem.
Then I notice on the inside door bottom a plastic piece. (see pic)
Looks like a spacer with the same bolt pattern as the 3 bolts on the motor.
Can I get one by itself, or do I need to buy a regulator? Or should I buy a regulator anyway?

 

[RangerX]

Today I took the motor out again, and put that broken spacer back in. No go.

When I try to operate the window, the motor torques then skips teeth, and I can see the end of the regulator flex sideways a little, along with the door wall that all this is mounted to, from the motor torque.
Can the regulator be jammed somehow? What goes bad on a regulator?
This one not a "scissors" style, it's kind of shaped like a boomerang or Nike swoosh.

 

[RangerX]

Bump, any info might help me...

 

[Tbars4]

..I've learned that the 93-94 Rangers are rare birds and actually have several parts that were made escusivley for those 2 years..I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that isn't the case with your window parts..

..You might contact 1A tony on here as they should be familiar with the parts and procedure..



..I'm shootin from the hip here but you said the 3 bushings are fine...What about the big plastic gear? The P/N for it will be ACI or Siemens #84635..Here's one for reference and price as I've seen them for $15-$30..
http://shopping.yahoo.com/801402253-aci-power-window-motor-gear-kit-84635/

..I would ask 1A Tony about that triangle piece too..

..I would assume the metal teeth on your regulator are all straight and each look the same with minimum wear?..Let me know how this turns out and if needed, I can run to that one JY that has about a dozen 93-94's and pick up what you can't get from anyone of our vendors..:shifty_ey

 

[RangerX]

Thanks Ted!
I've watched that video, he doesn't actually remove the regulator.
My motor gear looked fine, the whole inside looked like new.
I can't see all the reg. teeth, most of them are hidden behind the panel. The only thing left that I haven't done is remove the regulator. I've been reluctant because it's held by 4 rivets which I'd have to drill out. I'm worried that when I reinstall it with bolts, I may have alignment issues...
What can go bad on one? Besides stripped teeth, I could recognize that.
I'm kinda thinking that the mechanism is jammed or something.

 

[Scott B.]

Bill,

Did you remove the cover over the large white gear in Ted's photo? IIRC, it was held down with 2 of the 3 mounting bolts and one rivet. I bent the cover around the rivet to pivot it out of the way.

On my driver's door motor, several of those barrel-shaped bushings came apart, and jammed between the motor worm gear and big white gear.

If you do change the gear and bushings, make sure you clean all the old grease out of the housing. The grease can contain small bits of plastic that will eventually move the jam the gear - don't ask how I know...

 

[RangerX]

Yes, that was the first thing I did. From reading up, I was sure that was my problem, but the bushings were fine, the grease was clean, the gear was good.

 

[Tbars4]

...If I had a 93 Ranger sitting in my garage with the motor out, I would gladly pull a door panel and help you out..:

 

[Stic-o]

not sure if this will help, but when I had the '88 B2 the driver window did the same thing. It was plastic gear pictured above. The ribs were there on the outside of the gear, but the inside broke apart and would spin inside itself. Once I replaced that gear, it worked no problem.