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If it ain't broke... it probably will be soon

RigandGrif

Member
Joined
August 18, 2024
Messages
33
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47
City, State
La Grande, OR
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Explorer Eddie Bauer
I've had what acts like a warped drum in the rear passenger side brakes since i can remember. I was thinking I'd order some new drums and shoes. It's a '91 X with 240K miles. I was also thinking about the soft brake lines, maybe some wheel bearings. Anything else worth doing for an old rig in the rear end? I suppose I could drain the rear dif and put some fresh juice in there. It's probably still original.
 



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You may wind up having to replace the hardline if you can't get the connection loose for the soft lines.
 












You may wind up having to replace the hardline if you can't get the connection loose for the soft lines.
so maybe more of a "if I can bust it free without twisting the hard line" sort of approach?
 












@RigandGrif I'd kind of be inclined to encourage that idea right there, just replace every thing and don't have to worry about going back six months later to fix the next weak link. Probably save a bit on shipping ordering things together, too.
 






I got all of the brake hardware in. It actually wasn't too bad. The soft line was manageable to replace, and all the hard lines stayed in tact. I haven't bled them yet or tested anything yet, so we'll see how I did at later date. My wife get's back in a couple days and can help me bleed them. I currently have the differential cover off and I'm working on getting everything cleaned up before putting that back on. I couldn't tell where the fill plug was, so I assumed it used a bolt hole to fill, but after I got the cover off, I saw that all the bolt holes are blind. I eventually found the fill hole, and am not thrilled about it. Why would it be right up next to the gas tank? I'm probably going to have to figure out some sort of pump to fill it again. Any tricks there? Also, found out after the fact about friction modifying stuff. I've never heard of such a thing, but I guess that's why I"m on this forum, learning from you all.
 






some pics

old brakes.jpg


new brakes.jpg
 






Nice work!
We use a hand pump that screws into the gear lube bottle
Or
Valvoline now sells gear lube in bags, you squeeze them and the fluid goes in
They are $$$$$
Some people have been known to buy one bag and refill it several times with cheaper fluid
 






Nice work!
We use a hand pump that screws into the gear lube bottle
Or
Valvoline now sells gear lube in bags, you squeeze them and the fluid goes in
They are $$$$$
Some people have been known to buy one bag and refill it several times with cheaper fluid
I'm thinking like a lotion bottle or something would do the trick. I suppose alternatively, I could lift the body off and pull the fuel tank.
 






To fill axles I use a piece of hose jabbed firmly on the nipple that comes with the standard plastic bottles, squeeze the snot out of it then sorta roll it up from the bottom, and refill that bottle until fill level is reached.
 






I eventually found the fill hole, and am not thrilled about it. Why would it be right up next to the gas tank? I'm probably going to have to figure out some sort of pump to fill it again. Any tricks there? Also, found out after the fact about friction modifying stuff. I've never heard of such a thing, but I guess that's why I"m on this forum, learning from you all.
Friction modifier is only if the axle has a limited slip, does yours?
My lifted Rangers probably have more room to fill the diff than the Explorers, but I do know where that fill plug is on an 8.8, so what if you jack up the rear by the frame, disco the sway bar, and let the axle droop?
 






Friction modifier is only required for limited slip axles but it helps keep the fluid from “foaming” for all axles

Gale banks has several videos online about rear differential fluids covers and additives very helpful

Most full synthetic gear lubes have some sort of friction modifier in them already

This is the $11 pump I use for gear lube

 






so much great help! Yeah, mine is limited slip. I'll probably pick up that pump later today. Thanks again everyone!
 






To fill axles I use a piece of hose jabbed firmly on the nipple that comes with the standard plastic bottles, squeeze the snot out of it then sorta roll it up from the bottom, and refill that bottle until fill level is reached.
I have lifted the body away from the frame a bit, and that did make a little more space. We'll see if it's enough without taking anything else apart. Thanks!
 












Hoping for no surprise or issues with the s-spring/c-clips/clutch pack

View attachment 464851
Wow, that is dramatically cleaner than mine! How many toothbrushes did you go through? I didn't do anything inside the pumpkin, other than drain it, paw some sludge out of the bottom, then spray some debris from cleaning the mating surface out of the gears with WD40, then clean that out a bit with a rag. I'll see if I can get some pictures up.
 






One thing I wanted to confirm is how it comes from the factory. I'm guessing a gasket is used, not RTV. The reason I ask, is that I bought this rig in 2006 with 119K miles and assumed no one had ever serviced the rear end, but, it was sealed with RTV, so I suspect the previous owner took it in for a full 100K service. Either way, it's at 240K now, so it certainly needed some fresh juice.

gears.jpg
 






They come with RTV only, no seal, but seals are available, normal seals ore lubelocker reusable seals.
How many toothbrushes did you go through?
Overhauled a spare rear axle with all kind of interesting things, so for me it has to be clean.
Don't use toothbrushes, but wife's dishwasher, she was not amused...
 



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