INCOMING - Bought some Speedline Magnesium Saleen rims for 2000 Explorer Limited - ?s

[MuscleJunkie]

I recently picked up a set of pristine Speedline Magnesium 1908 18" X 8.5" Rims (with the 10mm Offset) (the ones installed by Saleen on the XP8 Explorer) to install on Big White.

During my research, I've noticed that the original tires that Saleen installed on the XP8 Explorer were the 255/55R18 109H Pirelli Scorpion S/T Tires which are no longer made.

Does anyone have any advice on what tires I should buy for installation on these new rims that are comparable or better than the Scorpion S/T Tires.

On my 16" Limited Wheels, I currently am running Michelin LTX M/S2 P255/70R16 109T Tires. I intend to keep these tires/wheels for winter and any off road driving I might do in the future.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice, those are super rare and the first versions were in some way recalled. It's been over ten years so I've forgotten any details about what went on with the early XP8 wheels. Not many remained on the trucks, just like the XP8 Alcon brakes were removed(those were recalled due to aluminum caliper brackets).

You might want to hunt those Alcon brakes for the look or effect of big brakes. But just know that the cost of the rotors was way too high, say $800 a pair and had to be replaced too often. The pads were about $275 a set too.

BTW, I can recommend a great 255/55/18 tire, because I have them now. I can't drive my truck because of the bad engine miss, but the tires are great. Other than how fast they are wearing for me, and the cost($200 each), I love the Continental DWS tires. Mine have maybe 15k miles in 2.5 years, but they look to have about half tread left. For a 50k tire, I was hoping to get at least 40k miles from them.

I've had Scorpion 255/60 tires on my 18's, and Yokohama's at 265/60/18(first), and these 255/55 Continentals are my favorite so far. I was after a best in rain tire this time, and I think these achieve that. The Scorpion tires wore a little quickly too, performance was okay, and near the end they did handle great. Thy just weren't up to the level of safety when new, like these Continental DWS's.

I also have the same DWS tires on my Mark VII, in 255/55/17's. They have been great on both vehicles for rain etc, and the 17's are wearing okay so far. But I'm not thrilled with the wear I've had with the 18's.

It might be good if you could try these Continentals used, to save costs and get a feel for them. I could be talked out of these actually, since I now have a plan to change my wheels and not use the heavy 18" wheels any longer.

Jim, what do those Magnesium XP8 wheels weigh each, do you know yet? I hunted slowly for years to find a light forged wheel for my Mountaineer, which I like. The cheap 18's I've been using are around 30-32lbs each. Now the used set I just got are a forged two piece wheel from Volk, and the 17x9" weighed 22lbs on my scale. The big 275/55/17 tires I want will be about 35lbs each, making a total weight of 57lbs. That's a good figure to be at, and try to not go much higher.

 

[CDW6212R]

The Volks Rays GTC wheels I bought are used and will require some professional work on the lugnut holes. I'm planning to see some local stocked spline drive lugnuts, in 1/2-20 thread, to see how the better brands look in hand.

I have a cheap brand of 1/2" splined lugnuts since 10+ years back from eBay for curiosity. I found them to test fit my used 17x9's. I got the wheel on to see it stick out about 1/2" past the fenders. I think an OEM fender flare is an answer for that. These cheap tuner lugnuts are too thin walled, with very little meat to them. The wheels have tiny holes in them for a special type of narrow lugnut. I want to find a best version from the McGard or Gorilla brands, in those tuner or splined type lugnuts. I need to see which will have the most meat, thickness around the thread areas. Some are taller, have more splines to engage, and one brand had a shank that extended down below the 60* seating surface.

I have to make a decision on the best lugnuts to use, and then have my GTC wheels cut to accept those lugnuts. I may end up with the wheels at a company which is expert with these high end features, and refinishing them may be discussed.

I think the best offset range for a 8 to 9" wheel is about 15-20mm, for the Saleen XP8's. A member here PM'd me recently with details of his OEM XP8 wheels.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

The Speedline Magnesium rims for the Explorer (with center cap and gasket) weigh approximately 23.84 lbs. They have a 10mm offset.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I decided to go ahead and try the Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus tires in 255/55R18 109H or 109V (haven't decided yet) This tire looks as it might be better than the Scorpion S/T

More pics
Speedline 1908 Magnesium Rims - 18" X 8.5 - 10mm Offset - from Saleen XP8 Explorer

 

[CDW6212R]

The Speedline Magnesium rims for the Explorer (with center cap and gasket) weigh approximately 23.84 lbs. They have a 10mm offset.

I think 24lbs is a good number for a wide 18" wheel. You won't lose performance from having extra wheel/tire weight.

Did you look at any 275/55/18" tires, which would be a 30" size just like the stock 255/70/16's. I was looking at those and the 17's, and the choices are different for the wheel change. I did like the 17" choices a little better, but I was going to settle on the wheel that I found first.

The 255/55/18 tires are great for most driving needs, you'll like it. I've been planning to go wider for ages, knowing I'd eventually add 200-300hp to mine.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I think 24lbs is a good number for a wide 18" wheel. You won't lose performance from having extra wheel/tire weight.

Did you look at any 275/55/18" tires, which would be a 30" size just like the stock 255/70/16's. I was looking at those and the 17's, and the choices are different for the wheel change. I did like the 17" choices a little better, but I was going to settle on the wheel that I found first.

The 255/55/18 tires are great for most driving needs, you'll like it. I've been planning to go wider for ages, knowing I'd eventually add 200-300hp to mine.

My understanding is 275 / 55 is too large for the 8.5" rim . Is that your take on it?

 

[CDW6212R]

My understanding is 275 / 55 is too large for the 8.5" rim . Is that your take on it?

I didn't think of that, the 8.5" rim is not really narrow, but the 275 would be just a hair wider than ideal. My 17's are 9" wide, I had decided to go that size to be just enough to go with the 275mm.

As the tire series gets shorter, the rim width is more critical. A 40 series tire has a narrow width range to be a good fit, while a 70 series tire can go on a lot of rim widths. These 55 series tires are in the middle range. I've been reluctant to drop much more in series height, knowing the ride would get more harsh as it drops more. I'm surprised that the 255/45/17's I have on my Lincoln do so well. I've been very happy with that size choice and the DWS tires, for the car.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

As some of you might have read in one of my previous threads elsewhere, I had a front and rear swaybar from another XP8 I purchased years ago. I sold the front bar since I couldn't use it on my 94 Limited and I recently had the rear bar powder coated and installed on my 2000 Limited. I also just had the rear lowering blocks from XP8 2000-0023 powder coated and read for installation when the truck is lowered while the wheels and tires are installed.

Also received my tires from Tirerack

Photos below

Saleen XP8 rear swaybar and lowering blocks powdercoated and ready for install

 

[CDW6212R]

Jim, before you install the wider wheels/tires, R&R the left V8 strut rod(suspension link from the frame to the rearend). You need the parking brake cable to run on the inside of that, to keep it farther away from the tire.

Also, I suggest replacing the end links in back, the OEM pieces are good but are worn out at this age. I've replaced both sets of mine.

If you get nearly done and decide the front could have less sway, there is one bigger front bar. I have the Addco bar, it's 1.5", but their frame brackets suck. I had two sets made, and still need to get them powder coated.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Jim, before you install the wider wheels/tires, R&R the left V8 strut rod(suspension link from the frame to the rearend). You need the parking brake cable to run on the inside of that, to keep it farther away from the tire.

Also, I suggest replacing the end links in back, the OEM pieces are good but are worn out at this age. I've replaced both sets of mine.

If you get nearly done and decide the front could have less sway, there is one bigger front bar. I have the Addco bar, it's 1.5", but their frame brackets suck. I had two sets made, and still need to get them powder coated.

Don thanks for the info. By the way did you see my other thread hear about the air ride sensor and Lowering?

 

[CDW6212R]

No I hadn't seen that thread yet. I altered the ARC height sensor in the back of my 99 Limited, when I installed a 1" lowering block set. I had to adjust the sensor to move it from trying to maintain the original height, and accept the new lower height. I got it to a point near 7/8" lowered. That kept proper air pressure in the shocks, to not let them deflate too much.

I'm going to need to go through that rear suspension again, when I swap a 89-01 hatch in place, plus the bumper, and tail lights.

The actual springs used will affect the final ride heights possible, so choose good spring rates. I'd also like to address the possibility of adding a panhard bar, to solidly locate the rearend for cornering safer.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

No I hadn't seen that thread yet. I altered the ARC height sensor in the back of my 99 Limited, when I installed a 1" lowering block set. I had to adjust the sensor to move it from trying to maintain the original height, and accept the new lower height. I got it to a point near 7/8" lowered. That kept proper air pressure in the shocks, to not let them deflate too much.

I'm going to need to go through that rear suspension again, when I swap a 89-01 hatch in place, plus the bumper, and tail lights.

The actual springs used will affect the final ride heights possible, so choose good spring rates. I'd also like to address the possibility of adding a panhard bar, to solidly locate the rearend for cornering safer.

Don by chance have any instructions on how to modify that sensor? I am installing the 2 inch Saleen xp8 lowering blocks on my truck

 

[CDW6212R]

The rear hasn't got an adjustment, I had to "guess" at the amount I drilled a new hole at in the upper cross member. That's how it went when I ended up at around 3/4", given my 1" lowering blocks. I could have elongated the holes a bit more, but I was okay with it there at the time.

I have at least one picture that shows how my height sensor is moved at the cross member. There are two bolts/holes, and the space to be able to move the holes is limited(the body above it). You might have to move yours as far as it can, plus grind on the sensor bracket a bit to gain more. I couldn't have done much more with mine, a little but not much. You have to test fit/mount the sensor and bracket to check on how much space is left to clear the body floorpan.

The Explorer Express lowering blocks are 1.375", and I have those in my Mercury. That's a good compromise distance and the rear suspension travel is being lost fast beyond that. I need stiffer rear springs, both from age and to help with bottoming out. The Mercury typically got the softest springs, and after about 1998 only the 4WD got the stiffest springs. You might have OEM soft springs in your Limited, so an upgrade might be needed. I saw about $450-$500 in replacing those for a high quality brand, I hadn't gotten that far yet.

Here's the picture I have of the sensor mounting, bracket holes redrilled. I went about 3/8" higher than stock, and that got me about double that amount in actual height. So place your sensor and bracket assembled(without the top bolt/stud in), up against the body, and see how much you might be able to move your holes. I hope this helps.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Finally had the wheels (The powdercoated Saleen XP8 Speedline Magnesium Rims I bought back in July) installed yesterday but still have to complete the lowering as I'm waiting for my U-Bolts and Camber Adjusters.

Everything is looking great - here are the latest photos before lowering.

2000 Ford Explorer Limited with Saleen XP8 Carbon Fiber/Composite Hood - Rear Wing Spoiler and Saleen Speedline Magnesium Rims

There are quite a few high resolution photos - so they might take a bit to load.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent, that looks great. It does need to come down a bit, but you're almost there.

I had a conversation about lug nuts with Gorilla, about my new used wheels. They have better variety than anyone else, and they assured me that the wheel studs are the weakest link, not the common these days little tuner lug nuts. I knew that they had a special part called an ET wheel lug nut, but I hadn't really considered it. They come in 1/2"-20 threads, and a unique end shank below the seat, which is 1/4" long. They tell me that the 0.80" outer diameter is strong enough to be safe, and better than a 0.90" item they have(that doesn't have the 1/4" end shank).

I'm going to locate and buy new hub center rings to properly mate the wheel and hub sizes, and get those lug nuts to test with. I know the wheels will still need to be re-drilled to move the seats deeper, but I needed lug nuts to figure out if the outer holes had to also be cut bigger(determined by the lug nuts). Maybe I'll only have to get the wheel seats deeper and not have to refinish them too. The seats are now 0.9" deep(from the hub), so they need to go inboard enough to obtain enough thread engagement of the stock studs. I think they need to move about 3/8" or so inward. I'll consult with a wheel expert before I tell someone to do it.

I hope to get to working on my Explorer soon. I'll take some pictures of the ARC height sensor upper mounts again.

I've had my dad in the hospital for two weeks, until yesterday. Now he's in a rehab, which should be able to help him regain strength. Soon,

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Excellent, that looks great. It does need to come down a bit, but you're almost there.

I had a conversation about lug nuts with Gorilla, about my new used wheels. They have better variety than anyone else, and they assured me that the wheel studs are the weakest link, not the common these days little tuner lug nuts. I knew that they had a special part called an ET wheel lug nut, but I hadn't really considered it. They come in 1/2"-20 threads, and a unique end shank below the seat, which is 1/4" long. They tell me that the 0.80" outer diameter is strong enough to be safe, and better than a 0.90" item they have(that doesn't have the 1/4" end shank).

I'm going to locate and buy new hub center rings to properly mate the wheel and hub sizes, and get those lug nuts to test with. I know the wheels will still need to be re-drilled to move the seats deeper, but I needed lug nuts to figure out if the outer holes had to also be cut bigger(determined by the lug nuts). Maybe I'll only have to get the wheel seats deeper and not have to refinish them too. The seats are now 0.9" deep(from the hub), so they need to go inboard enough to obtain enough thread engagement of the stock studs. I think they need to move about 3/8" or so inward. I'll consult with a wheel expert before I tell someone to do it.

I hope to get to working on my Explorer soon. I'll take some pictures of the ARC height sensor upper mounts again.

I've had my dad in the hospital for two weeks, until yesterday. Now he's in a rehab, which should be able to help him regain strength. Soon,

Thanks Don. Sounds like alot of work for those wheels of yours.

Oh - btw - any chance to get those ARC height sensor pics within the next day or so? Also do you know about the Ride Height Calibration feature on the scan tool and ECU? I'm wondering if it is possible to re-calibrate the sensor after lowering to not have to move the sensor???

 

[CDW6212R]

I didn't have to learn anything about the ARC module functions beyond the basics. I can tell you that it has no port to connect any external device like a scan tool. I'd guess that anywhere that suggests access etc, is for another system other than the 95-01 Explorers.

There are two versions from 1995 to 2001, and both have two connectors in them. Those match each other and go just to the system components. I bought a 98 model ARC system and installed it all in my 99, except for the front air springs/lines and swapping to a 99-01 ARC module. I have the front air solenoid connectors in place(taped up), and the 99-01 module ignores(doesn't use) those front items.

Below shows the back of the dash as I was integrating the ARC wiring into it. The module is mounted to the right of the radio, and the two wiring harnesses lead upwards and to the main wiring along the back of the dash. All of the loose wiring hanging back there are the ARC wires I added. They were almost all connected at that point, and ended up running along and into that main section across the top.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'll try to get to the Explorer tomorrow. Today I have to get my washing machine fixed(clothes are piling up). Regards,

 

[MuscleJunkie]

When the dealer connect up the computer up to my explorers computer to recalibrate the speedometer there was a setting in there called ride height calibration I believe. I found some articles on the web saying that this is something that can be done and it's for the air ride system. I didn't know if you knew anything about it.

I didn't have to learn anything about the ARC module functions beyond the basics. I can tell you that it has no port to connect any external device like a scan tool. I'd guess that anywhere that suggests access etc, is for another system other than the 95-01 Explorers.

There are two versions from 1995 to 2001, and both have two connectors in them. Those match each other and go just to the system components. I bought a 98 model ARC system and installed it all in my 99, except for the front air springs/lines and swapping to a 99-01 ARC module. I have the front air solenoid connectors in place(taped up), and the 99-01 module ignores(doesn't use) those front items.

Below shows the back of the dash as I was integrating the ARC wiring into it. The module is mounted to the right of the radio, and the two wiring harnesses lead upwards and to the main wiring along the back of the dash. All of the loose wiring hanging back there are the ARC wires I added. They were almost all connected at that point, and ended up running along and into that main section across the top.