Intercooling the 4.0 ohv/sohc with Ford Supercouper M90

[Dono]

I'd like to end up around 14lbs boost. Not sure if I will get there though.
Im not pulling my heads again (Unless things go horribly wrong). I think I'd have to pull my motor, as the passenger side air cond box would be in the way.

I am not running lean (So says my a/f gauge) so I am pretty sure I have not exceeded the duty cycle of my injectors. Maybe that will change when I get my iat's under control?

Phix, do you have a picture of the underside of your M90?

 

[jd4242]

I'd like to end up around 14lbs boost. Not sure if I will get there though.
Im not pulling my heads again (Unless things go horribly wrong). I think I'd have to pull my motor, as the passenger side air cond box would be in the way.

I am not running lean (So says my a/f gauge) so I am pretty sure I have not exceeded the duty cycle of my injectors. Maybe that will change when I get my iat's under control?

Phix, do you have a picture of the underside of your M90?

I'm sure you can after ic but would go same route as me and get a larger crank pulley.I still wanna see a pic of where his iat sensor is, his temps are very hard to belive for his boost and being in Florida. But that kit is very restrictive so the boost levels may be decieving.I would like to compare all three of our iat and maf flow numbers

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd like to end up around 14lbs boost. Not sure if I will get there though.
Im not pulling my heads again (Unless things go horribly wrong). I think I'd have to pull my motor, as the passenger side air cond box would be in the way.

I am not running lean (So says my a/f gauge) so I am pretty sure I have not exceeded the duty cycle of my injectors. Maybe that will change when I get my iat's under control?

Phix, do you have a picture of the underside of your M90?

That kind of boost, 14psi, with cooled IAT's, would approach being an airflow similar to a 7.0 liter engine. Every 14.7psi is one multiple of displacement flow, potentially. With hot IAT's like you have now, the effective extra airflow is far less. The incoming air is so much thinner due to the temperature.

Plan your exhaust based on what final effective airflow you hope to reach. If you might get to 14psi with a good IC system, then expect to need sizes for a 400+ CI engine for your rpm level. I'd begin planning for that kind of exhaust. If the current pipes to the collectors are not 2.5", I'd start right from there, and build a full dual system. I would make a big bet that the engine will need that greatly. It sounds like that would be double the capacity the current system is. I think if you did the exhaust first, it will not bring IAT's down much, but with a tuning session, it would be quicker for sure.

BTW, two mufflers would have half as much exhaust running through each of them, which will reduce the sound. That will allow you to relax on issues like a resonator or super quiet mufflers.

I prefer less sound, so I'm always shooting for the quietest choice. I will begin my Mountaineer project with the exhaust, and the pair of Vortex mufflers I got a few years ago. I loved that they are flat and will easily stack together, I expect them to be right at about 8" tall, tack welded together.

There is tons of room for the exhaust from the collectors to the rearend, the headers and tailpipes are the tough parts.

 

[CDW6212R]

...

CDW, I run a 8x11 cooler (and I am thinking of adding a 8 or 10" fan) and full synthetic mobile1. I used to see 140 to 160 trans temps with some "spirited" driving.

The transmissions do really need a lot of attention for a blower application. I know normal temps are supposed to be okay at 150-200 max degrees etc, depending on conditions etc.

For a blown vehicle, the ATF should kept cooler if at all possible. I'd love to see 100 degrees or maybe 100-130* maximum. Wanting that is not the same as making it happen. There are lots of engine cooler thermostats, to maintain oil temps near 180* or so. I am going to try to see if one of those can be altered to open much earlier, like at 100*.

In any case always use the best ATF you can get, and keep it clean and young. Regards,

 

[Bronco2]

Don, my lower intake to blower config. is a bit different from what yours looks like. Below is an image:

.

From what firm ist that setup? Please... More details thx...

 

[phix-]

The above is not from any setup, it was a kit manufactured for a short period of time during 2000 and 2003. It is the BBK instacharger kit, mine ditched the fuel dampener and have relocated some things that were in the way in the past.

Don,
I have to go searching through my old computer to see if I have any.

 

[Dono]

More work completed by Ron today.
This answers our questions on how the inlet outlets would be sealed. I'm impressed. This will be a nice tight, solid seal.

Im feeling the pressure to get going on the intercooler front radiator and pump.
Also, I better get in for a dyno pull.

 

[jd4242]

More work completed by Ron today.
This answers our questions on how the inlet outlets would be sealed. I'm impressed. This will be a nice tight, solid seal.

Im feeling the pressure to get going on the intercooler front radiator and pump.
Also, I better get in for a dyno pull.

Nice.next wonder how the front part or the seems are going to seal?

Yea come on already. ..I wanna see the dyno numbers!!! I'm guessing around 220-230 range

 

[Bronco2]

The above is not from any setup, it was a kit manufactured for a short period of time during 2000 and 2003. It is the BBK instacharger kit, mine ditched the fuel dampener and have relocated some things that were in the way in the past.

Don,
I have to go searching through my old computer to see if I have any.

Thank you!

 

[Dono]

A materpice

So, here it is!
A prototype of the Banshee supercharger intercooler.
A piece of art.
Ron's shipping in the next day or two, so I will have it in 2 weeks.
No pressure.....

 

[jd4242]

So, here it is!
A prototype of the Banshee supercharger intercooler.
A piece of art.
Ron's shipping in the next day or two, so I will have it in 2 weeks.
No pressure.....

Hell yea!!!! DYNO TIME

 

[Dono]

I had some 'me' time tonight.
Made some space for the rad and test fit it.
It was pretty easy to get everything apart.
The only change I made was moving the air bag sensor over. That involved removing the bracket, grinding down the bracket slightly, and remounting it in an existing screw hole to the left a few inches. Not perfect, but it feels pretty solid.

Tomorrow I'll pick up some rubber mounts, some L brackets, and a straight 1/2" length of steel for brackets that I can bend as required for a bracket on the left. Ror the right, I'll drill right in to the centre support that has the hood latch on it. A couple of longer metal screws, and some tube spacers and I'll be good to go.

The rad won't mount perfectly vertical, but I'ts pretty good.

I'm a bit concerned about mounting the pump at the front like that, but it needs to be low and I really cant find anywhere else that is any better without causing myself major work in taking everything apart to mount it. I think its better to keep it reasonably accessable.

Check out the mock up pics.

 

[jd4242]

Looks good.if its not lower than the cooler its no big deal.you just have to prime it the first time, it will work fine from then on as long as you don't have leaks.

Makes the front look meaner! ! People have to wonder what it is

 

[Dono]

All the factory grill pieces will fit over, but your right. You will still see the silver rad in the front. I guess its a good thing to have some good space between the two rads. Think the pump being more exposed to the elements will be an issue?

 

[jd4242]

All the factory grill pieces will fit over, but your right. You will still see the silver rad in the front. I guess its a good thing to have some good space between the two rads. Think the pump being more exposed to the elements will be an issue?

Personally I wouldn't have it where water would get to it, or not a lot.unless you seal the plug on it.is you battery tray on the driver's side? I planned on mounting mine under that on ranger.its pretty low and in the engine bay.

 

[Dono]

It would be easy to run some silicone around the electrical connector, but in the engine bay would definately protect it better. I'm trying to follow the kiss principal (keep it simple stupid). I'll sleep on it, and then have another look.

At least I can see the rad will mount without too much drama.

 

[jd4242]

It would be easy to run some silicone around the electrical connector, but in the engine bay would definately protect it better. I'm trying to follow the kiss principal (keep it simple stupid). I'll sleep on it, and then have another look.

At least I can see the rad will mount without too much drama.

Yea hear yea.I was worried about if it would fit.way less room than my first gen.looking forward to final mount of both

 

[vroomzoomboom]

looks like i will have to start on a hood a little earlier then i thought....

 

[Dono]

The only other concern I have is the pcm wiring. With the inlet to the SC being lifted 2 1/2 inches it might be perfectly in the way.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, that looks great. You have plenty of room there, where is the trans cooler, or do you have one?

Your front end is in fine shape, with little rust. Mine has begun a lot around the lower radiator support. I need to get in there like you did and strip it down to get to the many seams of the support.