Intercooling the 4.0 ohv/sohc with Ford Supercouper M90

[Dono]

Thanks for the cooler Tim!
I'm not sure what I'll be doing on the harness. For now, I'll set that issue aside.

I can see that the pcm will have to be moved. The mount sticks out too far in the fire wall, so it will have to come off. Im sure this is why 4pointslow actually moved his to his centre console.

I don't really want my pcm to be permanently in the engine compartment as the extreme temperatures, and humidity cant be a good thing. I don't have a full centre console, just the bag. Hmm...on top of the knee plate at the steering wheel? Sacrifice my glove box??

The rad is mounted. I should really pull the bracket and paint it, as its made out of bent steel. It actually worked out pretty well. It looks like I will pull my battery tomorrow and see if under the battery tray will work for the pump, as it does look like there's quite a bit of room there.

its slow going. I started late tonight, and wasn't very focused. Really, all I need to do till my package shows up from Ron is paint bracket, mount pump, and route hoses. That's not much.

 

[jd4242]

Thanks for the cooler Tim!
I'm not sure what I'll be doing on the harness. For now, I'll set that issue aside.

I can see that the pcm will have to be moved. The mount sticks out too far in the fire wall, so it will have to come off. Im sure this is why 4pointslow actually moved his to his centre console.

I don't really want my pcm to be permanently in the engine compartment as the extreme temperatures, and humidity cant be a good thing. I don't have a full centre console, just the bag. Hmm...on top of the knee plate at the steering wheel? Sacrifice my glove box??

The rad is mounted. I should really pull the bracket and paint it, as its made out of bent steel. It actually worked out pretty well. It looks like I will pull my battery tomorrow and see if under the battery tray will work for the pump, as it does look like there's quite a bit of room there.

its slow going. I started late tonight, and wasn't very focused. Really, all I need to do till my package shows up from Ron is paint bracket, mount pump, and route hoses. That's not much.

And dyno before...or is that out?

 

[rickybobby]

It looks to me like you could extend the harness about a foot, then flip the plastic piece the other way, and have it look stock while having the harness drop down below the intake tube. just my .02

 

[Dono]

It looks to me like you could extend the harness about a foot, then flip the plastic piece the other way, and have it look stock while having the harness drop down below the intake tube. just my .02

I'm hoping I can do that. Even if I cut up the mount cover to do it, and flip the PCM upside down so the connector goes the other way. I'd prefer to keep it clean looking wherever possible.

JD, the dyno not out. I'll make my appointment next week. I really want a before and after.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm hoping I can do that. Even if I cut up the mount cover to do it, and flip the PCM upside down so the connector goes the other way. I'd prefer to keep it clean looking wherever possible.

JD, the dyno not out. I'll make my appointment next week. I really want a before and after.

You might also see how much room is behind the PCM "box", and if the outer part can be recessed back a bit.

Ryan here with his 92 Explorer installed the 95+ dash, and firewall section to do it, including the pocket pieces that the PCM goes into.

I had my 1999 dash out myself, but don't recall if anything was right behind the PCM to stop it from going deeper. If that could be done, then the wiring and PCM can stay virtually where they are, the connector and its cover might need rearranging. There is a sleeve that goes between the front and back of the firewall you can see below. I think that comes out from the front, but I don't know what at the back keeps it from going deeper. It should be that bracket seen over the back of the hole.

 

[Dono]

Ok, some guys are really amazing. I just can't see myself going to the extremes of pulling my dash right out to cut room for that pcm. I've read about a couple of the bolts, and the difficulties to do it the first time. If my heater core goes, then I could see myself attempting both at once.

Unless I can somehow get in from the engine side and cut out the back of the pcm 'pocket', I can't see myself doing this. It will be a shame to not make use of this space though, I'll try everything(almost) I can to make the existing spot work.

If that bracket holding the pcm in from the cab side of the firewall could be removed without pulling the dash, Id be laughing.I wonder if a long 1/2 inch extension and a hammer would give me the room. Makes me cringe at the thought of trying it though.

I'll have to flip upside down and look under the dash. Maybe even removing my glove box and radio would make enough room to get that bracket out.
Im going to have to look up Ryan's post on his conversion, it looks amazing. That body in the picture is perfect.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is my 99 front end, and the 93 rear clip welded to it, after I painted the front half.

I wonder if the rear bracket piece with two bolts is just to keep the aluminum PCM pocket/shelf in place.

The pocket itself does come out from the front I think, after you remove those two bolts next to the PCM. Whether the back bracket piece can be pushed back any I don't know, I can't remember if it's really thin steel or what.

 

[4pointslow]

Pcm

The pcm "box" in my truck was plastic. I did remove the pcm by removing the two nuts on either side and the rubber front piece that holds the pcm in. Then the pcm came right out. Behind it in the hole was plastic(the Box), you can see the back of that box in that picture with the dash removed. I cut the back of that box out with a sawzaw right through the front opening and was able to move the pcm back a good distance to clear the plenum when I had my M90 setup on. Maybe your clearance wont be to tight and you can just do that.

 

[4pointslow]

Pcm

In this picture you can see the pcm sitting back further than normal, keep in mind the connector still sticks out. Cutting the back of the box out worked great for my M90 setup but not the first plenum I had on the M112, thus the wire harness extension. Keep in mind the ranger and explorer clearances are a little different.

 

[Dono]

Thanks! It's so much easier knowing what works thru others experience. That picture su re shows the intake plenum being tight. A few choice words, I'm sure. You found great solutions though, and I thank you for that.

 

[Dono]

I finished my rad, mounted my water pump, and roughed in the water lines.

My rad's is in there solid, and the brackets painted. No rust issue there.

I pulled my battery tray, and there wasn't any room to mount the pump under it, but there was room for an L bracket. I just happened to hav some aluminum stuff in the garage.
This worked out perfectly. The angle Iron(Aluminum) fit under the tray nicely, and I was able to mount the pump to it. This worked out really well for running the water lines.
The rough in's done, and all I need to do is connect the positive lead of the pump to a realy already in existance. I have my water/meth pump on a relay that only turns on when the ignition is on.

Tomorrow, I'll call for my dyno appt. Then we all have an excellent 'before' intercooler engine status, complete with dyno numbers and iat's.

 

[jd4242]

I finished my rad, mounted my water pump, and roughed in the water lines.

My rad's is in there solid, and the brackets painted. No rust issue there.

I pulled my battery tray, and there wasn't any room to mount the pump under it, but there was room for an L bracket. I just happened to hav some aluminum stuff in the garage.
This worked out perfectly. The angle Iron(Aluminum) fit under the tray nicely, and I was able to mount the pump to it. This worked out really well for running the water lines.
The rough in's done, and all I need to do is connect the positive lead of the pump to a realy already in existance. I have my water/meth pump on a relay that only turns on when the ignition is on.

Tomorrow, I'll call for my dyno appt. Then we all have an excellent 'before' intercooler engine status, complete with dyno numbers and iat's.

nice!!yea wasnt sure if it would fit under there or not,just seemed like a good place.could you not mount the rad any higher?like where the fill cap is level with the plastic above it?can you get to it to fill it?any better pics of how its mounted?

 

[Dono]

I'll try to get more pics. Pretty tough to show it though. One end of the bracket screw's right to the centre support, and then the bracket runs rught across the top, and screws in at the other side.

Because of how the rad needed to sit on a slight angle, it would have been tough to raise it up. he rad would have been right in the way of the centre hood latch assembly. The fill cap would have actually ended up just below a tab thats used for clipping the top plastic to, making it tough to get the cap off. The way its mounted, the rad cap comes off pretty easily. Its just when the top plastic is re-installed the cap will not be accessable.

I really only used 1 bracket across the top.
There are mounting tabs on either side of the rad down about 3/4 of the rad, and they sit right on a shelf. I just took some plastic vacuum tube and sliced it lenthwise. Then I slid it on to the metal of the rad support to make sure I wouldnt have metal on metal rubbing. Its really secure there, but just a bit lower than I would have liked.

 

[jd4242]

I'll try to get more pics. Pretty tough to show it though. One end of the bracket screw's right to the centre support, and then the bracket runs rught across the top, and screws in at the other side.

Because of how the rad needed to sit on a slight angle, it would have been tough to raise it up. he rad would have been right in the way of the centre hood latch assembly. The fill cap would have actually ended up just below a tab thats used for clipping the top plastic to, making it tough to get the cap off. The way its mounted, the rad cap comes off pretty easily. Its just when the top plastic is re-installed the cap will not be accessable.

I really only used 1 bracket across the top.
There are mounting tabs on either side of the rad down about 3/4 of the rad, and they sit right on a shelf. I just took some plastic vacuum tube and sliced it lenthwise. Then I slid it on to the metal of the rad support to make sure I wouldnt have metal on metal rubbing. Its really secure there, but just a bit lower than I would have liked.

Gotca.just trying to get ideas for mine.I may try and mount mine on the right side, maybe it will clear the latch.idk

 

[Dono]

On the right side, I struggled with the inlet and outlet hoses. I didnt want to end up with them kinked, My solution isnt perfect, but very workable. I'll be interested in what you come up with when the time comes.

 

[jd4242]

On the right side, I struggled with the inlet and outlet hoses. I didnt want to end up with them kinked, My solution isnt perfect, but very workable. I'll be interested in what you come up with when the time comes.

Maybe with some 90* fittings.ill have to play around with it but probably just end up doing the same as you.atleast we know it fits there

 

[jd4242]

O just remembered I'm going to be running a fiberglass hood.it doesn't use the latch so I can probably just mount it higher, just worried some of the bumper will block it.shall see, looks mean in there tho

 

[Dono]

With no center support your laughing. I'm just happy my rad and pump are mounted. Like I say, the rad location isn't perfect but its solid. The pump is darn near perfect, and the 3/4 inch hose has no kinks in it. So far, very functional.

Once the intercooler shows up, I'll be on to my next set of obstacles.

 

[Dono]

Dyno time booked for next Tuesday. (April 30).

 

[jd4242]

Dyno time booked for next Tuesday. (April 30).

I assume your going to do a 2wd pull?