Issue with stuck shackle bolts

[konaboy]

If you insist on trying to save these, then I would hold off on any torching,etc.. until you have the springs themselves on the ground and away from the vehicle. If the spring bolts aren't cooperating anyway, then you might as well just cut/grind the heads and the nuts off, so you can remove the spring from the shackle/hanger and off the vehicle. That will give you more room to work, and not risk torching the truck.

As far as the spring "temper", I don't think a propane "plumbing" torch will get them hot enough to damage the steel. If you haven't burned out the rubber yet, then its unlikely the steel got too hot. On that note, be careful not to breathe any of those very nasty burning rubber fumes. That can be toxic.

Not insisting on saving, was just curious about the heat. I wasn't thinking taking them off the truck first but rather heating them up while on which had me wondering about safety.

Just had to have a new rack put in because the old one was leaking bad, so I'm just getting frustrated at spending money on it. I think the new springs would be the easier route to go.

 

[Carguy3J]

Not insisting on saving, was just curious about the heat. I wasn't thinking taking them off the truck first but rather heating them up while on which had me wondering about safety.

Just had to have a new rack put in because the old one was leaking bad, so I'm just getting frustrated at spending money on it. I think the new springs would be the easier route to go.

Oh, believe me, I get the whole "money pit" situation. I've dumped thousands into my '93 Ranger, and it always wants more. I've completely rebuilt the whole suspension. Every bearing, bushing, ball joint,etc... has been replaced; including new front and rear springs. At this point, its not a question of what is it worth. Its really what's it worth to me, and what can I /would I replace it with if I didn't fix it.

Also, just another bit of wisdom. I recently discovered that my rear axle is "crooked" in relation to the chassis. Looking back, it has been this way since I replaced the rear springs. It explains the funky toe-related tire wear I've had in the BACK, as well as the feeling of the truck turning much more easily in one direction then the other. Apparently, there is enough "play" between the "pin" in the spring pack and the hole in the spacer block/spring mount pad on the axle housing, that it allows for variable front to back locating of the axle/spring relationship. I recently discovered that Raybestos (and others) make a plate that allows for adjusting the wheelbase/ rear toe on a solid axle leaf spring rear. It also somewhat corrects rear camber issues, as it also changes the ride height, by 1/2", on the side it is installed on.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1023596&cc=1354564 - this is the narrow spring part#

There is also a part # for wider leafs. Rock Auto has them listed as "camber plates". Weird since that's not really there primary function, but whatever. Rock is also the only place I've found them.

With these, you can almost get a real 4-wheel alignment, even on your old solid rear axle vehicle. I bought the plate, and I'll be having them put in/aligned soon.

 

[koda2000]

the rear spring bushings aren't that close to the fuel tank, but work in a well ventilated area. if you have a small fan to blow any errant fumes toward the front of the vehicle it couldn't hurt. also, have a water hose handy any time your working with fire. the rubber will burn and smoke and the penetrating oil may do the same, if only briefly. the heat from a hand-held torch wouldn't be enough to damage the spring and if you heat the spring eye around the bushing the rubber will start to melt and should help lube itself to come put easier. it's your time and your money. which do you have more of?

 

[jremington59]

I just went through the dilemma of deciding what to do with the rear of my new one. Cheap Dorman springs were a couple hundred a set, plus tax. Now lets start talking the price of U bolts and other necessities. Now lets talk about rust. You need to get that stuff all apart. Been there, done that with a rusty vehicle. If you think removing those two rusty bolts is a chore you're going to have some fun. If you cut the head off the bolt and got an air hammer they very well may drive through. If you've got them spinning you got them started. You could have had them out by now, lol......

 

[2TimingTom]

Thin about how much time and effort you'll have to put into getting these things apart. Then you will still have to fight to get the new bushings in. In the end, you'll still be stuck w/ used worn out old springs.
...

Here's my post from my registry where I installed my warrior shackles:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3039278&postcount=119

I have a picture of what I used to get the new bushing back in.

 

[konaboy]

Here's my post from my registry where I installed my warrior shackles:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3039278&postcount=119

I have a picture of what I used to get the new bushing back in.

Good idea on the bushings. Did you consider just using a piece of all thread with the washers and nut so you wouldn't have to swap out bolts?