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Jack's SAS version 3.0


I am consolidating my build thread and the sas build into one thread so below is a link to my original build thread in case anyone has too much time on their hands and wants to see how this whole ordeal started.

notajeep_wv build thread

the next step.. SAS parts update 2/18


Its time for a SAS, time to take making Jeeps look bad to the next level lol
Lets keeps track of how much this is costing me so I can look back at it later and think of all the other things I could have done with the money.

what ended up on the truck..

74 EB D44 with track bar, steering, 2 sets of RAs - $200
F150 knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers - $35
MileMarker premium hubs - $80
4.89 G2 gear set - $175
4.88 G2 gear set - $200
D44 install kit - $80
5.5 WH coils - $160
Duff SAS trac bar bracket - $150
Duff Coil seats - $75
D44 TruTrac - $425
7* bushing kit - $50
Moog HD ball joints - $120
axle joints - $40
Duff steering - $350
Cooper 35x12.50 STTs - $840
custom built trac bar - $80
F250 shock towers - $30


eh, its a start

axle3.jpg
 

BKennedy

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Torched the LH perch off, welded on a new perch level with the RH side, welded the tubes to the center section. Its back on all fours with no leaf spring clap around turns or over bumps. She lives to wheel another day.. well hopefully more than a day, I'd at least like to get a few more years out of her.

How did you straighten out the brake backing plates so the brakes function properly without turning the tube back to its original position?
 


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Kirby N.

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I don't think he did anything about crooked brakes. Would that affect anything?

I think Rick had his tubes realigned similar to what james did except they used a jack instead of a long pry bar and muscles?

I guess it will work a while, but it makes me wonder how straight the housing is now that the tubes have moved. Which makes me wonder if seals and bearings will last.
 




BKennedy

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The brakes are aligned to maximize their effectiveness. If they are not even side to side, it would bother me so I would have to fix it. I don't know if it causes any felt difference in the pedal or performance, but it would cause one side to have to work harder.
 




gmanpaint

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When you welded the tubes to the housing, was anything special needed to be done, or was it pretty straight forward, with simply laying a bead around it?

I'm thinking of having mine done while it is at a shop in a couple weeks.
 




Kirby N.

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A little preheat and post heat to the cast center section will help the tubes and the center pig cool at closer to the same rate. Before I had a torch I would stick weld it once all the way around. Then my weld would crack so while it was still hot I would go over it again and it wouldn't crack the second time.
 




gmanpaint

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A little preheat and post heat to the cast center section will help the tubes and the center pig cool at closer to the same rate. Before I had a torch I would stick weld it once all the way around. Then my weld would crack so while it was still hot I would go over it again and it wouldn't crack the second time.

Thanks. I had a feeling there was some trick to welding to the cast. :thumbsup:
 




james t

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I guess it will work a while, but it makes me wonder how straight the housing is now that the tubes have moved. Which makes me wonder if seals and bearings will last.
The tube spinning in the center chunk wont really change the alignment. 1- its a very tight press fit, 2- there's quite a bit of engagement... the tube is "all up in there" so far that it physically cant move... uh... radially? wobbly? (hard to describe, yall know i dont english two good)

There is a chance of pulling the housing due to warping from the welds. I preheated with a torch, and did 1" welds- skipping sides, taking plenty of time- until it was all done then covered with a welding blanket. FWIW my buddy still drives that CJ, and it still has that crappy AMC20 rear end with no problems. :D
 




Kirby N.

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I weld it all at once. That way if it pulls it pulls it all at once every way. It's always better to be safe then sorry though. I welded on a truss to the top of a Dana 35 once and made it smile. That was a huge waste of a lot of work. Here is my latest welding on an axle housing. Sleeved and trussed jk 44.

8EC3A8B1-1A16-4EAF-A3BC-964D8ED76840.jpg


Preheat and post heat on the center pig and knuckles. It's straight and aligned perfect.. Now it will survive a pothole.

I know how much the tubing slides into the center, but if it is torqued enough to spin in spite of the rose welds/ plugs then I wouldn't trust that it stayed straight on that process. Sometimes bent housings will just leak a little. Sometimes they will eat lockers because the shafts are in crooked. I am sure there is plenty out there running around undetected. His trail rig will probably be fine.
 




Four0Sport

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Sorry I haven't been on here for a while..

I have noticed zero side effects as far as braking goes, if the tube had spun the opposite direction and the caliper was had moved down I would be more concerned.

We welded inch sections at a time and also re welded the front and rear plug welds. So far zero issues.

I kept getting tired of tripping over the duff boxes in my garage so I decided to get the truck up on stands and removed the coils, set the axle at ride height and removed the driver side radius arm leaving the passenger side attached to keep the axle in place. Mounted the front and rear wedge caps, put the arm on andddd thats where I got confused.. so figure I would get on here and look around, the rod end sits inside the frame rail, I can pull it out under the frame rail to work with the bracket but then I am putting strain on the bushings. Anyone run into or seen this before?

186.jpg
 




Kirby N.

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Yeah dude. Mine did the same. There is enough range of movement in the bushings that it works just fine. Brian's too. I hit him up just like you because I was concerned.
 




BKennedy

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Yeah dude. Mine did the same. There is enough range of movement in the bushings that it works just fine. Brian's too. I hit him up just like you because I was concerned.

What he said. Loosen the caps, then pull the arms out until they fit in the brackets. Retighten caps. Over two years now and no issues.
 








Kirby N.

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I think I am running 2* but I moved my axle wedges 2* too. I would say depending on ride height 2*-4* will be good.
 




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According to Duff, their arms have 4* of caster. They recommend 4* C bushings with a 3.5" lift and 7* for 5.5". I went with their recommendations and ended up with 9*. It drove great on the highway, but did not turn as tight as hoped and I had a little binding with the front drive shaft at full extension. To correct both, I went with 4* bushings. It still drives well on the highway, just a little more steering sensitive. Turning radius is much tighter and the drive line issue was corrected.

It's right at the lower recommend caster, think it's 6-9*. If anyone made a 5* bushing, it would have been perfect for my set up. Not sure how much lift I ended up with, but it's around 6".

Those Duff arms are great; very sturdy, good length, good customer support, less binding with the two-part arms, and they act as anti-sway bars at highway speeds.

I ended up welding the frame brackets on because of the double walled frame, but Kirby just tightened the bolts up until the thin inner frame bent flat against the outer frame. Both seem to work.
 








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I ordered a set of 7s last night lol

I currently run 4* and am happy with the handling so I may stick with them for now.

As always, thanks for all the help guys!!
 








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Spent the past 2 weekends and a few school nights going through the front end and installing the Duff arms.. pics for those who like looking at mud covered parts

187.jpg
188.jpg
189.jpg
190.jpg
191.jpg
192.jpg
 






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