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Jack's SAS version 3.0

I am consolidating my build thread and the sas build into one thread so below is a link to my original build thread in case anyone has too much time on their hands and wants to see how this whole ordeal started.

notajeep_wv build thread

the next step.. SAS parts update 2/18


Its time for a SAS, time to take making Jeeps look bad to the next level lol
Lets keeps track of how much this is costing me so I can look back at it later and think of all the other things I could have done with the money.

what ended up on the truck..

74 EB D44 with track bar, steering, 2 sets of RAs - $200
F150 knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers - $35
MileMarker premium hubs - $80
4.89 G2 gear set - $175
4.88 G2 gear set - $200
D44 install kit - $80
5.5 WH coils - $160
Duff SAS trac bar bracket - $150
Duff Coil seats - $75
D44 TruTrac - $425
7* bushing kit - $50
Moog HD ball joints - $120
axle joints - $40
Duff steering - $350
Cooper 35x12.50 STTs - $840
custom built trac bar - $80
F250 shock towers - $30


eh, its a start

axle3.jpg
 


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BKennedy

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I like all the work you are doing, but have you ever thought about cleaning the engine compartment? They like being cleaned every once in a while, and much nicer to work on. A little Simple Green in a spray bottle goes a long way.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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I like all the work you are doing, but have you ever thought about cleaning the engine compartment? They like being cleaned every once in a while, and much nicer to work on. A little Simple Green in a spray bottle goes a long way.

Yes I am going to after the trial fit for everything. I purposely take pics of new parts against dirt and rust to rile up a coworker.
 




yostyexplorer94

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Christmas money was well spent on new idler and tensioner, cleaned up the saddle and the harness bracket and per someone else's Saginaw journey spaced the alternator. Ryan, I thought you were using the non ac explorer belt? as you can see, it is still too long. and my front dress is early style. that belt is still a couple inches too long. hmm. we will have to do some trial and error. Everything looks pretty though.

The ole lady's 93 limited and my 94 share the same later style front dress. Here is exactly how I mocked it up. This motor was out of a 1998 ranger and the front dress is exactly the same as my 93/94. I used the 91/92 idler pulley by mistake when I built the bracket and it is slightly larger than the 94 pulley. I also used a brand new belt to determine the final placement of the saginaw pump. That was another mistake I made, because I didn't take account the belt stretching. That is the reason the alternator will need spaced to make up for that.
20190414_164933.jpg
 




Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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I'm running 91/92 front dress apparently from the motor swap at 130k. Guess I'm belt hunting. I did space the alt up.

How was I using a 93/94 non ac belt on the older dress setup? I am running the larger idler but it is below the alt. My tensioner is where your idler i .
 




yostyexplorer94

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How was I using a 93/94 non ac belt on the older dress setup? I am running the larger idler but it is below the alt. My tensioner is where your idler i .

Are you sure you got the right belt? According to autozone the belt non a/c is the same 91-94. That has me baffled that there is that much slack

I wonder if the factory ac / ps bracket is different between early and late dresses. That would make sense if that is the case. There are 2 different style brackets. Maybe the early one sat further away from the motor
 




Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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Are you sure you got the right belt? According to autozone the belt non a/c is the same 91-94. That has me baffled that there is that much slack

I wonder if the factory ac / ps bracket is different between early and late dresses. That would make sense if that is the case. There are 2 different style brackets. Maybe the early one sat further away from the motor

Mind boggling
 




Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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Lets move to the rear suspension for a bit... I want to keep the fuel tank in the stock location for a few reasons.
1) it protects the driveshaft
2) it acts as a skid
3) keeping the fuel system as stock as possible means I can source parts easier if there is an issue away from home

With that being said, the 10.25 in the stock position under the truck does not clear the fuel tank. The larger pinion flange as well as the structural webbing of the center housing both would come in contact with the fuel tank when the suspension compresses. To remedy this I needed to look for a way to move the axle back at least 4 inches. Anti-wrap perches give you roughly an inch, offset perches net roughly 3.. we are almost there.

Now I know what you're thinking, just run different leafs. Well, yeah I could do that. Some of you might say just flip the stock springs. Well, yeah I could do that too even though the 9th grade physics part of my brain and a tech at Deaver do not advise moving the center pin past the center of the spring. So, with that being said, we re-drilled a set of leafs with a new pin dead center of the leaf. That netted 2" of stretch. So basic math says we just stretched the rear 5 inches. Woo.

So lets talk wheelbase now. Stock 2dr Explorer is 102". My front is pushed 6" forward of stock and the rear will be 5" further back from stock. That is a total gain of 11" putting my wheelbase at 113 total inches. I can live with that.
 








Kirby N.

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I agree with keeping the stock tank.

Have you tried to drill leaves? It’s pretty tough to drill spring steel.

a couple of suggestions- ruff stuff had some stretch perches. I was going to use them but ended up returning them. They have a unbolt eliminator. They are beef.

you can also shave a bunch off the skid. It overhangs and the mounts Are bulky. I cut a lot off mine and also redid the mounts with 3/8” flat stock.

Have you looked at moving the tank forward an inch or so? I moved my explorer tank back 1” to make room for my doubler. I cut the mounts and moved them back on the straps and welded and braced. Could you use a smaller tank and do that? It seems like there were two tank sizes in an explorer. Would there be a ranger tank that is smaller?
 




Four0Sport

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Ditch the stock tank now. More room to link it later I may be relocating mine.

Don't tempt me with a good time! Listen, cost wise and time wise this gets me on the trails faster. Maybe one day down the road the rear will be linked but not now. I'll setup the rear shocks mounts to double as coilover mounts, that make you happy? btw.. June is looking to be a good time, we all hope youre coming.

I agree with keeping the stock tank.

Have you tried to drill leaves? It’s pretty tough to drill spring steel.

a couple of suggestions- ruff stuff had some stretch perches. I was going to use them but ended up returning them. They have a unbolt eliminator. They are beef.

you can also shave a bunch off the skid. It overhangs and the mounts Are bulky. I cut a lot off mine and also redid the mounts with 3/8” flat stock.

Have you looked at moving the tank forward an inch or so? I moved my explorer tank back 1” to make room for my doubler. I cut the mounts and moved them back on the straps and welded and braced. Could you use a smaller tank and do that? It seems like there were two tank sizes in an explorer. Would there be a ranger tank that is smaller?

the leaf packs are already drilled, no issues there.

I do have the ubolt eliminator perches, great minds think alike. that's where I'm getting 3 of the 5 inches of stretch.

the skid is bulky.. it will be getting trimmed up a little. but as far as a smaller tank I am already running the smaller 15 gal tank that came on my 2dr. There really isn't much room to move it forward but fingers crossed im moving the rear axle back enough to clear as far as the ranger tank.. again.. wanting to keep as stock as possible. if i ultimately do have to ditch my oe tank i'll just do a fuel cell.
 




yostyexplorer94

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Don't tempt me with a good time! Listen, cost wise and time wise this gets me on the trails faster. Maybe one day down the road the rear will be linked but not now. I'll setup the rear shocks mounts to double as coilover mounts, that make you happy?

Progress in this thread always makes me happy.

btw.. June is looking to be a good time, we all hope youre coming.

At least it is not overlapping my daughter's birthday this year. I am planning on going.
 




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