Jimabena74 Suspension Plans

[jimbo74]

ok, we all know i am a little crazy, well, maybe a lot crazy.... after doing a little bit of research, i am at somewhat of a loos for what to do for my truck suspension wise.... i plan on running 33s or 35s..here is the plan.. tell me which you would do, why, and please factor in the type of driving i do.. i pretty much do everything in my truck.. i do mud, desert stuff, rocks, trails, brush, snow, and would like to do rubicon and moab as well as others. i also go to the local offroad parks and like to catch air (actually jump my truck) and showoff... i also drive very hard and like to screw around and "hotrod" my truck... this includes urban wheeling such as hoping curbs and the like... if i havent mentioned this before i drive very hard... i want the best of both, but obviously know this cant happen..

i am thinking of either a full width 77 f150 dana44 sas with 9" rear with gears and lockers

cut and turned d35 along with the jeep spindle nut adaptation with 4.56s and lockers leaving the 8.8" but upgrading to rear disks to prevent the axle from falling out should a c clip breaks...hiemed extended radius arms as well to gain a little bit of flex, although i do understand that the ttb doesnt have much to begin with.. this really doesnt bother me too much, as a locker, a heavy foot, and driver negotiation can probably over come some of the no flex situation

i am leaning towards the d35 a bit more becuase it sounds like it is more what i am looking for.... however, i do not know the limits of either of these setups and am really wondering if the d35 will hold up to the type of abuse i plan on putting it through.. [for the people that have wheeled with me, please add your input, as you can give a more accurate account of my insane driving than i can] i just know i am insane/idiotic, but others can guage how and to what extent i am, probably better than myself.....

also, i will be doing this buildup myself for the most part other than buying the parts.. i have a good amount of knowledge, but my fabrication skills are not the best and if i do need to fabricate, will need to search for someone local to asist professionally....

I know this is a long post.. Sorry about that... But i have a lot of questions, and havent really found too much..... I figure if i never ask, i am never going to get a straight answer

 

[justin146]

If it were me and I was going through all the trouble of a SAS, then I would go for a Dana60. Jumping with 35's is gonna put alot of strain on the d44 and would probably kill a d35. I want to see someone do a coil-sprung SAS. I am judging your driving stlye solely based on the current condition of your truck. I'd say go fo full-width dana60's.

 

[zensius]

Jim, save yourself the work and money and just sawzall out your wheel wells. This is really the biggest limiting factor when fitting larger tires. Keep the truck low by not putting in more than two or three inches (using a body lift and shackles). And cut away... I'll bet you could get 35's. This will help you keep the rubber side down. We already know you need help in this area. Also by keeping the stock pivot brackets the front stays stronger. This is all very cheap to boot.

 

[Fhantazm]

Originally posted by justin146
I am judging your driving stlye solely based on the current condition of your truck.

 

[jimbo74]

Originally posted by zensius
Jim, save yourself the work and money and just sawzall out your wheel wells. This is really the biggest limiting factor when fitting larger tires. Keep the truck low by not putting in more than two or three inches (using a body lift and shackles). And cut away... I'll bet you could get 35's. This will help you keep the rubber side down. We already know you need help in this area. Also by keeping the stock pivot brackets the front stays stronger. This is all very cheap to boot.

actually jon, i was really considering that... but want the d35 cut and turned, as it is pretty strong.... and is already the 35..... i need the little extra height so i dont get hung up on everything offroad..... but i am going to hack out the fenders....also, the cut and turned wont cuase any more stress on the truck than what i have heard there is present with the stock setup.... it basically lifts the front 4" or so, but with no negative results other than a higher center of gravity... all steering geometry and everything else stays the same as well as cmber/caster adjustments.......

 

[Crankcase]

Originally posted by jimabena74
but with no negative results other than a higher center of gravity... ......

Uh oh, that might not be a good thing in your case...

 

[RFR2212]

Originally posted by justin146
If it were me and I was going through all the trouble of a SAS, then I would go for a Dana60. Jumping with 35's is gonna put alot of strain on the d44 and would probably kill a d35. I want to see someone do a coil-sprung SAS. I am judging your driving stlye solely based on the current condition of your truck. I'd say go fo full-width dana60's.

Maybe I'm missing something, but there have been lots of coil sprung swaps...

Jim my d35 is alive and I've jumped the sport with the boggers on it It's alive... You could also run late 70's f-250 axles whihc are hp44hd 8 lug and somethin else i think... just a thought

 

[jimbo74]

pete, what tires are you running? i am really leaning towards the cut and turned d35..... it appears to really be what i am trying to acomplish with my truck...... i have jumped my truck several feet and it has been fine so far... i know my alignment is all messed up.... but that is easily fixable... i just need to take it into work and adjust it..... its only had 50 miles put on it in the last year....

 

[james t]

if you need advice on front fender cutting, i have had my entire front inner fenders out on both sides. i realize our trucks are slightly different, but ive looked at mine from a 4x4 standpoint and i think you could cut them up VERY high with not much work. thin cheesy sheet metal could replace the inners that you need to get rid of. all of the stuff that you think is attatched to them really isnt. about the only things attatched are wires and lines, which can be moved around quite easy.

 

[RFR2212]

When wheelin, 33in boggers.. street 35 m/ts I've never had problems with loose spindle nuts, er whatever always is notorious for comming loose.

 

[jimbo74]

now i am really leaning towards the dana 35... i know the way i drive is rough, but i also know i drive hard and fast... and the fast part is more suited for the ttb.... as for flex, if i dont have flex, a front and rear locker can compensate for that...... the people that have wheeled with me know that if i cant crawl over it, iwill take a running start and use my skidplates the rest of the way.....

 

[jimbo74]

where can i find more about cut and turned d35? i have semi checked out www.rrorc.com the rough rangers... but i would like to know everything possible.....

 

[jimbo74]

ok, i have done a little more research...i plan on doing the spindlenut upgrade thing on the d35 as outlined on the www.explorer4x4.com page..... i have also found out that the u joints can probably? be upgraded to higher strenght rebuildable units.... the part i am not sure what to do about, is that i heard with a locker that hubs blow..... no i understand this will most likely only be in really tight steering wheel locked to the side applications along with heavy gas... but ialso plan to no do that if i can avoid it (wheels turned, no hevy gas) and also carry spares with me..... does this sound like the proper approach? my plan is to be only doing slight rockcrawling, and a lot more playing, jumping, mudding, and general goofing around.....

 

[jimbo74]

well guys, i joined the ranger station, and rrorc and they basically tell me nothing... some people are behingd the d35 cut and turned... some say its horrible on the street.... some say it is only for hard core offroad, some say it will be better on the street.... dang, i am even more confused now, then i was then.... what do you explorer people think? i am not going sfa.. i will keep the d35, even if i have to lift it with dropdown brackets, etc, the conventional way......