Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

[Xeek]

i ordered a new one from jba on thursday. $180!!!!!!!! Y-PIPE ONLY!!! $220 with shipping!! im gonna dig into the shipping, no way CA to VA is more then $20 ground. i ship things all day. they had to have put other stupid options on it of something.

so from CA to VA ups, 5 days, should be here friday. then ill find out.



lesson: dont buy jba, get pacesetter and paint them yourself. jba is a good brand and all, but VERY expensive. i couldve bought headers and y-pipe brand new from pacesetter for the price i paid for jbas y-pipe + $20. (ceramic paint not included)

 

[mr cribb]

i ordered a new one from jba on thursday. $180!!!!!!!! Y-PIPE ONLY!!! $220 with shipping!! im gonna dig into the shipping, no way CA to VA is more then $20 ground. i ship things all day. they had to have put other stupid options on it of something.

so from CA to VA ups, 5 days, should be here friday. then ill find out.



lesson: dont buy jba, get pacesetter and paint them yourself. jba is a good brand and all, but VERY expensive. i couldve bought headers and y-pipe brand new from pacesetter for the price i paid for jbas y-pipe + $20. (ceramic paint not included)

They might've got you for oversize freight.

I bought a catted y-pipe one time for an old truck and they got me for oversize freight.

 

[Anime]

Here's your $100 lifters:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319437

I have no idea on the brand or quality though.


You'd still want longer pushrods with the cam though, even if it doesn't NEED it right away, it seems to be that when the lifters are overextended too much (such as when the rockers wear out and cause the valve clatter), they eventually get damaged and go bad. Lifters that aren't overexerted seem to last longer, or at least that's what I've seen based on the cases I've read about.

You can swap out valve stem seals by using air to hold the valve shut, then popping off the spring retailer and spring while the valve stays closed...but you're looking at head removal if even the slightest leak drops that valve down.

Valve guides are another story. Those are usually pressed into the head at a machine shop. You probably can do a messy job of getting them out and banging new ones in, but it might not be pretty and it's not really what you want to do on such a critical part that takes constant abuse and wear.

You're best off removing the heads, doing it right, and just eating the cost as a learning experience. Throw in the new lifters while you're at it if you need them since that will give you another excuse to have removed the heads. It'll cost time and money to fix, and sure, it'd be nice to have it done right the first time, but the hassle of redoing it now is pretty minor compared to the time and cost it'll take to fix everything when it's damaged.

 

[Xeek]

youre 2 months late lol
yea i wish i had found some cheap new lifters when i did it. nothing was on ebay at the time.
so far mine work, just the rearmost drivers on is sticking. and making a tap

as far as that issue, jd came over and he blew air in the plug holes to hold the valves closed, very carefully took them apart and replaced the stem seals. ac box needed to come out to replace the 2 rear ones on the passenger side. tool couldnt get the spring.
no valves fell in. 5.550 pushrods were purchased and made a big difference.

 

[Anime]

Well that's strange. When I replied, your last post with the lifter issue was dated 6-20-11 and was the most recent in the thread. I replied because it showed as the most recent post in the Need for Speed forum on the main page.

Now I login today and suddenly there's all these new posts about exhaust that weren't there before.

Weird.

Sucks that the A/C box has to come out though, but glad I know before I attempt replacing them.

 

[jd4242]

it might not have to but with my tools there was no way around it.so i would say with 90% for sure it has to come out if you don't pull the heads

 

[Xeek]

animes weird
for me the ac box was 4 bolts and a wire harness. since i already had the freon out and lines off. so that was really easy.
and yes, with a different tool it could be possible, but the rental and jds the knob to turn it was in the way. so it just worked better that way

 

[Xeek]

got the y-pipe, it only came to $190.91. the $220 mustve been some kind of security before it cleared.

pics:

get the welds reinforced on the outside maybe?

 

[Dono]

So, I'm going to chine in here (Slight hijack). What are your thoughts on me (410 cam, opened up intake) going headers and catback? I know catback would help, but I have to wonder if headers would help. They are only a couple of hundred bucks for the pacesetter coated on ebay.

Of course, I need to get a catback done.

 

[Xeek]

pacesetters are $240 on summit. just strip the paint and do your own ceramic paint. or buy them with ceramic paint already for $370 i think. if you leave the black paint on the $240 set they will rust.
obviously a catback will help a lot. and headers will add a few more hp to the mix. not sure what it changes as far as high end/low end torque tho.

 

[Xeek]

fixed. big als, $20. two free o2 caps

 

[Dono]

nice job. Some welding skill there

 

[Xeek]

just incase you missed it, Big Al's not me. i take no credit lol
guy seemed to know his stuff. he asked if it was for an explorer when i walked in lol
im driving a s10 so...

 

[jd4242]

come on posting it in two thread!

 

[Xeek]

its engine related, so it fits here too

 

[Xeek]

well as per this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319715
his problems are similar so its prob the same thing. i repalced my IAC and nothing.
he reported cleaning the contacts on the maf wire harness worked, so i shot the electrical cleaner on there, it was pretty dirty. so after some miles on it ill see how it does.

i have noticed a really nice lope at idle in drive when its warmed up. i love the sound. maybe ill try and get video of it

 

[Dono]

Nice. Im jealous, I have to say.
Makes me want to buy a project vehicle that I can work at squeezing a ton of power out of and not worry about issues with starting when its colder than a witches t*t.

 

[Marx4.0]

OHV H.O. Built with 422 cam. How to make it run right?

Hey there. I put a post in the "new members" area. Just thought I would pop it in here too. See if I can get some help.
...
The ENGINE build:
1995 4.0 OHV bored 0.39" over, 10.6:1 compression, KB 3156HC Hyperteuctic Pistons, Ported 98T Heads & Intake, Comp 422 cam, Comp 988 valve springs, 19lb injectors, NGK5-1 plugs, true dual 2.5" exhaust with x pipe and turbo style Cherry Bombs
I'm a new member here so you'll have to pardon my ignorance. First off, I'm actually not a Ranger or Explorer owner. I am, however an owner of a 4.0 OHV. We have just gotten this engine built and installed in a 1995 Aerostar AWD wth a 1999 5R55 auto trans. That's ok, you can laugh now.
Seriously can someone tell me what the best MAF, TB and injector combo would be on an engine like this? The guy who built this motor told me we should leave it at 19lb inj. and keep the stock intake and MAF till we see how it performs. He also mentioned that I would likely want to get it tuned. I'm am NOT a mechanic and have since found that "tuning" this engine is not all that easy! It's an EEC.
Now I wanted to make sure we have the best all around build possible and then continue to pursue the tuning option. Right now the engine runs but is a pig on the road. Lots of hesitation and jerking/sputtering.
Help me out here, could this just be my throttle body or injectors or MAF? I would glady get all three as long as I knew this was going to help and as long as I knew what kind of specs I should look for. It's not that I don't want to spend the money to do it right.
The guy who installed the motor has gotten a unit called the TwEECer which is supposed to be able to make the EEC motor run on OBDII(??) but he is having difficulty as no one seems to be able to guide him through all this. Said I'd see if there was other things we should look at changing up in the mean time, ie intake, injectors, etc.
Can anyone help??

 

[jd4242]

Hey there. I put a post in the "new members" area. Just thought I would pop it in here too. See if I can get some help.
...
The ENGINE build:
1995 4.0 OHV bored 0.39" over, 10.6:1 compression, KB 3156HC Hyperteuctic Pistons, Ported 98T Heads & Intake, Comp 422 cam, Comp 988 valve springs, 19lb injectors, NGK5-1 plugs, true dual 2.5" exhaust with x pipe and turbo style Cherry Bombs
I'm a new member here so you'll have to pardon my ignorance. First off, I'm actually not a Ranger or Explorer owner. I am, however an owner of a 4.0 OHV. We have just gotten this engine built and installed in a 1995 Aerostar AWD wth a 1999 5R55 auto trans. That's ok, you can laugh now.
Seriously can someone tell me what the best MAF, TB and injector combo would be on an engine like this? The guy who built this motor told me we should leave it at 19lb inj. and keep the stock intake and MAF till we see how it performs. He also mentioned that I would likely want to get it tuned. I'm am NOT a mechanic and have since found that "tuning" this engine is not all that easy! It's an EEC.
Now I wanted to make sure we have the best all around build possible and then continue to pursue the tuning option. Right now the engine runs but is a pig on the road. Lots of hesitation and jerking/sputtering.
Help me out here, could this just be my throttle body or injectors or MAF? I would glady get all three as long as I knew this was going to help and as long as I knew what kind of specs I should look for. It's not that I don't want to spend the money to do it right.
The guy who installed the motor has gotten a unit called the TwEECer which is supposed to be able to make the EEC motor run on OBDII(??) but he is having difficulty as no one seems to be able to guide him through all this. Said I'd see if there was other things we should look at changing up in the mean time, ie intake, injectors, etc.
Can anyone help??

Please dont double post.i answered you in your other thread.

 

[Xeek]

well after 6,3XX miles and what, about 1.5 years i think(since it ran)? its over. started out pretty good. saw about 12mpg at the most. 16.5mpg on the highway. slowly decreased once it starting going bad due to 'mudding'.
so with the ranger now, i want to put all the power in that. in a truck thats not gonna see anything more then sunny days and rain in the wheelwells. leave the exploder with the rangers old motor and keep swapping in junkyard motors to it if it breaks.

ill just post the pics to let you decide whats wrong. i have low compression on #2 and #6 i believe, cant rememebr for sure. and i had free play on cyl #4, exhaust rocker(when fully open). no idea why.

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

another of #4(only took these two cause i had the pistons out this time. for the hell of it i guess)

another of #6(only took these two cause i had the pistons out this time. for the hell of it i guess)