Last of the 94 bugs

[That-Guy]

I've had the 94 XLT running great for about a month. Now the only things that are wrong are 1. it starts hard when hot and idles rough and 2. it still bangs into gear. I replaced the fuel injector that had been clogged for 50,000 miles and it runs perfect. My dad says he never would have parked it to die in the yard if it had been running like this. I understand why, he had a perfect 94 blazer that was equiped with towing gear from the hitch, to tranny coolers. It ran good the explorer didn't, it got around 22 mpg and had more muscle than was needed for up to 3 tons the explorer got around 14-15 mpg and only towed from the bumper (the trailer lights never worked, and its engine was weak). Ever since I fixed it its becoming upredictable. Sure it RUNS in mint condition and has the full 160hp again, but whats the point if it wont start. It never did it when the injector was clogged. It started with some hard starts (well, a little harder than cold) and it idled strange. Now it will turn over 10-20 time and backfire before barely coming on and with exessive throttle I can clear it out to running. A few times it has come on running on 4 cylinders before backfireing and killing. The other thing it it shifts into gear with a bang, literally. It has done this for almost as long as we have had it so I'm not that worried. It is not the u joints, there is no play at all. It actually turns in the rear end without the tires moving. I'm told its probably major and should have failed long before I aquired the truck. Thoughts?

 

[Yankee516]

Good morning... Maybe you can test the fuel pressure at the rail? There should be a test valve. I'd also check for vacuum leaks as well. As far as the "bang into gear", maybe there is a leak in the vacuum modulator line or possibly the mod is bad. Hope that gives you a place to start!

 

[That-Guy]

I'm going to test the fuel pump pressure soon, and replace the fuel filter (hasn't been replaced in 8 years. I will check for leaks in the intake manifold, It started after I replaced an injector, its possible we got a bad gasket but I doubt it.

 

[That-Guy]

I tested the pressure. It has around 40psi when i turn the key, and hovers at 28-29 psi at idle. it says it should be 30-45 psi. I'm starting to think I don't care that much, I don't like my explorer anyway. It has minimal power, sucks gas, and hates me. The only thing good about it is if you get it started, it will get you where your going. If I didn't know it had another 100,000 miles left on the motor I would beat it to hell. But the lifters, valves, and all other internal components are in not good, but great condition, and it has an average of 170 psi in every cylinder.

 

[arco777]

I tested the pressure. It has around 40psi when i turn the key, and hovers at 28-29 psi at idle. it says it should be 30-45 psi. I'm starting to think I don't care that much, I don't like my explorer anyway. It has minimal power, sucks gas, and hates me. The only thing good about it is if you get it started, it will get you where your going. If I didn't know it had another 100,000 miles left on the motor I would beat it to hell. But the lifters, valves, and all other internal components are in not good, but great condition, and it has an average of 170 psi in every cylinder.

I've been having a similar issue on mine for a long time; hot starts often suck unless I throw it into gear and drive, then it clears right up. I'm thinking it may be a worn out fuel pump. Good luck with it.

Sorry to hear the rig is annoying you. I think if you get it running right it will be fun though. Mine is stock save for an air intake, and even with the 3.27 gears it hauls butt. With EE sway bars it is a blast around corners and is truly the most fun and versatile vehicle I've owned. It gets a consistent 16-18mpg depending on whether I'm easing along or hammer down which is good enough for me.

 

[That-Guy]

Yes, its a good overall vehicle, decent gas mileage, good power, and has always been reliable. 205,000 miles and never been stranded, and if I drive it just right I can get 20 mpg out of it. The good thing about Ford is, if you get it started it will make it there (no matter where "it" is). Working on them is a *****, when something doesn't work on earlier models Ford adds another part to combat the problem, 50% causing another problem. This it the only vehicle we have ever owned that required a special adapter to test the thing.
I'm thinking of either getting a dodge dakota (stickshift only) or a jeep wrangler. I have family members who have loved their dakotas (all automatic dodges need new trannys around 150,000 miles). I like the jeep wrangler because it is an exellent platform to build any style vehicle I want from a car to a rock climbing truck. No power windows, locks, no auto trannys, just a bare bones truck with an indestructible engine. I'll just give it my "sound upgrade", 3" lift and throw 32" tires on it. That would be a truck I can enjoy.

 

[That-Guy]

if you get it started it will make it there (no matter where "it" is).

My explorer would not start this morning (i tried just tapping the starter in 2 second burstes, then went to 10 seconds, then gave some gas, none worked), i just tried it at 4pm and it started, i didnt fix anything.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Have you replaced the fuel pump relay in the power distribution box under the hood?

All the relays in there are the same so you can switch one for another to see if that clears up the issue. If it does, get a Ford part, even though they are more expensive (~ $23). The first one lasted 205,000 miles and aftermarket one won't. (been there, done that)

 

[Roadrunner777]

I'm working to confirm something, so this is just a maybe:

It is true that the relays are plug compatible. But, I am beginning to suspect they may have different contact ratings. Just to be safe, if you find a bad relay by substitution, put the 'loaner' relay back after testing and buy the correct one for the function.

 

[arco777]

When in doubt, compare part numbers. Most of the relays in my box were the same, but previous years may have different arrangements.

Also note that a relay that's hot is under a lot of stress; if the relay is very hot during operation or has visible burn marks when removed, something is putting an unusually heavy drain on the circuit or the relay is not up to the task.

 

[That-Guy]

I switched the fuel pump relay and the one below it (idk what it was for but it had the same number on it). started it cold and it popped right up as usual. after I warmed it up i tried it 5-10 times and they all worked perfects so I was happy. When I switched the two back I noticed they were hotter than the rest, so they can't be a perfect match. When I tried it 5-10 more times with the first one it still worked good. Some things to note are, the engine was up to normal temps but alot of things incuding the relay box were still cold due to an open hood, there are 6 relays in the box, 5 have a white ford logo and are clearly original the fuel pump relay is different with the words facing backwards to the rest but has the same number, the motor still idled funny (but thats fine, I dont need a perfect running 200,000 mile motor, i just want it to start consistantly and reliably). My dad does not remember replacing the relay so it must have been done by the guy before us (before 90,000 miles).

 

[arco777]

The relay is the easiest fix but sadly not always the correct one. You may have a fuel pump going bad. They get weak over time and usually first fail when they get hot after running for a while. I have had a Bronco and a Pontiac Firebird that both ran fine unless I went on a real long trip, then they'd sputter and die. After a few minutes sitting (letting the pump cool) they'd fire up again and run for a short distance more. Both times it was the fuel pump; a new pump fixed the problem and gave smoother running and slightly better fuel economy. I believe that the pump in my Explorer is to blame for it acting the same way, though it seems to pull through once I get fuel sloshing around to cool it.

Unfortunately it's hard to tell for sure if the pump's going bad. Some clues are the symptoms above, and excessive pump noise or strange noises from the pump. Also if you turn the key to RUN and you don't hear the pump prime the system normally. Hot relays can indicate a worn pump drawing a heavy electrical load.

Fuel pumps are pretty easy to replace if you cut an access panel. A cheap angle grinder with a cutoff wheel can make it a half hour job. New pumps can be had very cheaply on eB@y as well as kits to rebuild your existing one from sites such as RockAuto.

 

[That-Guy]

thanks for the reply's, I'll try a new relay and after that I'll just run the thing. I think the fuel pump is what gives the explorer its signature "whistle". I remember being young and hearing it I called it the explorers call. Back then that thing was bad ass, now it just gets me around. If I hear a bad noise I'll just turn up the volume on radio.