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ld50 Explorer mods revisited
- Thread starter ld50
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Thanks guys! This is an in-depth thread isn`t it?
Now for an update on things..
I went to the explorerforum run to Moab this year, needless to say, it was awesome!
Before I went, I changed out my front coil springs with aftermarket replacements. The front end was starting to sag a little so replacing the springs brought it back in line with the alignment.
When I was in Moab I had a couple problems, my passenger side coil popped out on me! I got it back in and kept my anti-sway bar hooked up for the rest of the trip. (special thanks to Jefe for helping me on the trail) I will have to make some J-clips to keep them in there now. i`ll post a pic of those when I fab them up.
Also, my passenger side front outside U-joint was killed when I was there. I replaced it it, and actually saw that the u-joint was bound to fail sooner or later anyway, it was wearing away for quite a while!
Lately, I`ve started getting this wierd noise from the back end that I `m hoping is maybe the rear U-joint on the driveshaft, I`m replacing the two of them today, so we`ll see..
Gotta pay if ya want to play.
Now for an update on things..
I went to the explorerforum run to Moab this year, needless to say, it was awesome!
Before I went, I changed out my front coil springs with aftermarket replacements. The front end was starting to sag a little so replacing the springs brought it back in line with the alignment.
When I was in Moab I had a couple problems, my passenger side coil popped out on me! I got it back in and kept my anti-sway bar hooked up for the rest of the trip. (special thanks to Jefe for helping me on the trail) I will have to make some J-clips to keep them in there now. i`ll post a pic of those when I fab them up.
Also, my passenger side front outside U-joint was killed when I was there. I replaced it it, and actually saw that the u-joint was bound to fail sooner or later anyway, it was wearing away for quite a while!
Lately, I`ve started getting this wierd noise from the back end that I `m hoping is maybe the rear U-joint on the driveshaft, I`m replacing the two of them today, so we`ll see..
Gotta pay if ya want to play.
- Joined
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- City, State
- British Columbia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 93 4 dr 4x4 manual XL.
Well, the noise from the back turned out to be my muffler banging the frame just enough. it had slipped over a bit on the rubber mounting doo-hickeys.
I made my J-clips up, just using some flat bar metal that I procured. I put the bar in a vise with a socket that was as thick as my coil spring, then bent the metal with a hammer till it curved over the socket, careful not to have too much curve so I could get it in the coild ofr mounting. This is the best way, you don`t want to heat the metal up to bend it lest you weaken it.
Then I put it in place and drilled a hole through the clip and the upper coil seat. after that I trimmed the excess off, painted them, and bolted them on.
This reminded me of my choice to ignore the need to raise my differential breather line on the front diff. I heard the warnings, and sure enough, got water in there. I knew people`s coils had been known to pop out, but didn`t think it would happen to me. Bottom line is if you wheel with your sway bar unattached, you need these clips!
I made my J-clips up, just using some flat bar metal that I procured. I put the bar in a vise with a socket that was as thick as my coil spring, then bent the metal with a hammer till it curved over the socket, careful not to have too much curve so I could get it in the coild ofr mounting. This is the best way, you don`t want to heat the metal up to bend it lest you weaken it.
Then I put it in place and drilled a hole through the clip and the upper coil seat. after that I trimmed the excess off, painted them, and bolted them on.
This reminded me of my choice to ignore the need to raise my differential breather line on the front diff. I heard the warnings, and sure enough, got water in there. I knew people`s coils had been known to pop out, but didn`t think it would happen to me. Bottom line is if you wheel with your sway bar unattached, you need these clips!
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- 93 4 dr 4x4 manual XL.
LOL, you saw that eh? Your question isn`t clutter crank,
"How`s your Mom doing?" would be clutter.
Too much dialogue is hell with the table of contents don`t ya know!
A little is cool of course.
By socket as big as the coil, I meant the same diameter as a section of coil.
Here it is in illustrated, diagramatic detail. (In full color)
"How`s your Mom doing?" would be clutter.

Too much dialogue is hell with the table of contents don`t ya know!
A little is cool of course.
By socket as big as the coil, I meant the same diameter as a section of coil.
Here it is in illustrated, diagramatic detail. (In full color)

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AHHH! Now it makes sense....
And yes...I was in the right place at the right time to see your flirting ...LMFAO!
And yes...I was in the right place at the right time to see your flirting ...LMFAO!
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- 93 4 dr 4x4 manual XL.
~update~
Well, been putting a hell of a lot of abuse into the station wagon this year.
The latest problems are:
-Overheating
She overheated a few weeks ago out on the road. A couple days later my heater core developed a leak, possibly as a result of the problem, I don`t know.
I bought a fan clutch, but of course I need that special wrench to get the bugger off and can`t seem to rent one, which is a bummer.
When the heater core blew, it drained coolant out of the A/C drain.
I took a short length of copper pipe and basically took off the hoses and re-directed the flow back into the return hose. I left the heater core in till I get a new one. Any way, the leak stopped, but it still wants to overheat. I`ll see how the new fan clutch works before I get too worried, everything else like the rad and thermostat were replaced bfore my Moab trip.
Another aggravation is my clutch shudder which comes and goes at take off. I always had it and replacing the clutch and getting the flywheel machined didn`t fix the problem. I suspect it is a problem with the flywheel, but of course if I shell out for one and it doesn`t go away, I won`t be happy.
Other than that, I still like the new front locker, it`s quite a blast to drag myself around with two lockers!
Well, been putting a hell of a lot of abuse into the station wagon this year.
The latest problems are:
-Overheating
She overheated a few weeks ago out on the road. A couple days later my heater core developed a leak, possibly as a result of the problem, I don`t know.
I bought a fan clutch, but of course I need that special wrench to get the bugger off and can`t seem to rent one, which is a bummer.
When the heater core blew, it drained coolant out of the A/C drain.
I took a short length of copper pipe and basically took off the hoses and re-directed the flow back into the return hose. I left the heater core in till I get a new one. Any way, the leak stopped, but it still wants to overheat. I`ll see how the new fan clutch works before I get too worried, everything else like the rad and thermostat were replaced bfore my Moab trip.
Another aggravation is my clutch shudder which comes and goes at take off. I always had it and replacing the clutch and getting the flywheel machined didn`t fix the problem. I suspect it is a problem with the flywheel, but of course if I shell out for one and it doesn`t go away, I won`t be happy.
Other than that, I still like the new front locker, it`s quite a blast to drag myself around with two lockers!
glfredrick
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I bought a fan clutch, but of course I need that special wrench to get the bugger off and can`t seem to rent one, which is a bummer.
Don't forget, those things have reverse threads...
I usually get mine off by using a channel lock pliers and sometimes with a long punch (hit against one of the points on the big nut in the direction to remove). That usually works.
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That`s wierd though, I got a service guide from the local Ford shop that said it was a left handed nut, so to loosen it I would go clockwise. But on my fan shroud it says "right hand thread on fanclutch", which is the normal way right? I looked at the new fan clutch itself and the threads there tell me that it would have to screw on clockwise, so standing in front of the truck I would spin it counter clockwise to loosen it. I was quite confused, but the Ford guy told me they put the wrench on pointing straight up, and they give it a hard whack from drivers side to passenger side. Anyway my problem is not having a wrench that fits in there!
I also noticed that alot of older vehicles actually give you enough room to fit a standard wrench in there, someone`s trying to sell wrenches I guess.
I also noticed that alot of older vehicles actually give you enough room to fit a standard wrench in there, someone`s trying to sell wrenches I guess.
glfredrick
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I've never seen a Ford fan that was not reverse threads.
It us usually lefty-loosey - righty-tighty - and it would be backwards for the fan - let me know if I am wrong!
It us usually lefty-loosey - righty-tighty - and it would be backwards for the fan - let me know if I am wrong!
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Well GL, it in fact loosened off in a counter-clockwise fashion. I managed to borrow a wrench that would fit, put it on, gave it a quick hit with a hammer (standing in front and striking from driver`s to pass. side) and it loosened for me, then came the rest of the way by hand. Glad to get the job done anyhow! Now I gotta see about the heater core.
>edit<
Heater core in, everything seems in order now!
>edit<
Heater core in, everything seems in order now!
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Ching Ching!
$$
All costs in CDN funds !
Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00
Filter adapter = $68.41**
K&N filter = $50.00
Window visors = $45.00
Cheap CB = $75.00
Antenna = $50.00
Tow hooks = $40.00
2" susp lift with shocks = $464.00 **
31x10.5 BFG T/A K/Os = $835.00
New lower ball jts. and alignment = $ 604.00
Fire extinguisher = $ 40.00
4.10 gears, locker, U-joints = $2635.37
2" body lift kit = $148.45
Shifter extension = $58.21
2" x 20' tow strap = $40.50
War1780 skid plates - $115.00 **
War153 shackles - $99.95 **
1.5" Wheel spacers - $504.87 **
Custom exhaust - $320.00
Dual battery parts approx. $85.00
2nd battery= $100.00
33x10.5 BFG MUD T/A KM (4)
minus sale of old tires (350$) = $578.84
Antenna kit 4' Firestick = $80.03
Lower shock mounts WAR161 = $51.55
Saddleman generic fender flares = $50.00
OME-36 leaf springs and poly = $900.00 **
Ford `96 bushings for front of leafs = $100.00
Used front Detroit "lunchbox" locker $232.20
(** includes shipping)
Total "EX"penses =$16976.34 CDN
__________________
(Oh the money you`ll blow)
$$
All costs in CDN funds !
Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00
Filter adapter = $68.41**
K&N filter = $50.00
Window visors = $45.00
Cheap CB = $75.00
Antenna = $50.00
Tow hooks = $40.00
2" susp lift with shocks = $464.00 **
31x10.5 BFG T/A K/Os = $835.00
New lower ball jts. and alignment = $ 604.00
Fire extinguisher = $ 40.00
4.10 gears, locker, U-joints = $2635.37
2" body lift kit = $148.45
Shifter extension = $58.21
2" x 20' tow strap = $40.50
War1780 skid plates - $115.00 **
War153 shackles - $99.95 **
1.5" Wheel spacers - $504.87 **
Custom exhaust - $320.00
Dual battery parts approx. $85.00
2nd battery= $100.00
33x10.5 BFG MUD T/A KM (4)
minus sale of old tires (350$) = $578.84
Antenna kit 4' Firestick = $80.03
Lower shock mounts WAR161 = $51.55
Saddleman generic fender flares = $50.00
OME-36 leaf springs and poly = $900.00 **
Ford `96 bushings for front of leafs = $100.00
Used front Detroit "lunchbox" locker $232.20
(** includes shipping)
Total "EX"penses =$16976.34 CDN
__________________
(Oh the money you`ll blow)
crazyfoolreal
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that is insane man, I love your truck and wish I had some intuition to try this on mine. I got the 31 bfg all terain t/a and thats about it for now. Im lookin at a ranger lift which is comprised of a 2" spacer and 2 new leaf springs, also lookin at some rough country nitro shocks. After that Ill do the 2" PA body lift and see how I sit. Does this sound good? If not I would love some input.
bates
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How much does this lift cost? F-150 spacers are cheaper than just about any other out there, and WAR-153 shackles with add a leafs would be way cheaper than new springs in my mind. Springs are usually big cash, considering. But a two inch lift plus a two inch body lift would definately look good, modded trucks always look better (in my mind, but I am a little weird according to some). You are in the states so your prices would be cheaper than LD's. Just another option, but but you prolly noticed thats what he did.
crazyfoolreal
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well the kit is 80 shipped. Where can i get the f150 spacers, or shackles?
bates
Shine on Benevolent Sun
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If that would work, forget what I said and just give me the link for this lift! Thats a smokin' deal if it'll work!
300th post for this thread! yee haw!
300th post for this thread! yee haw!
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You can get the F-150 spacers from any Ford dealer. The War shackles can be got from virtually any off-road shop, especially if they specialize in Jeeps.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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