Lean running codes on both banks. Safe to drive awhile? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Lean running codes on both banks. Safe to drive awhile?

Juanhmi

Elite Explorer
Joined
June 16, 2020
Messages
58
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44
City, State
Louisville
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 XLS V6 OHV
So this problem has been creeping up on me for awhile now... finally popped a check engine light for banks 1 and 2 running lean. Fuel trims will hit 24-25% on both banks at idle in drive, drop back down to around 3% when on the gas. Fuel economy has been an issue for awhile.

I'm pretty certain I'm looking at intake gaskets, but don't have the time to do them right now and really need the truck for a road trip next week. Bad idea to put another thousand miles on it like this or should I get a rental? From a driving standpoint, everything is totally normal, only symptom seems to be in-town fuel economy.
 



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So this problem has been creeping up on me for awhile now... finally popped a check engine light for banks 1 and 2 running lean. Fuel trims will hit 24-25% on both banks at idle in drive, drop back down to around 3% when on the gas. Fuel economy has been an issue for awhile.

I'm pretty certain I'm looking at intake gaskets, but don't have the time to do them right now and really need the truck for a road trip next week. Bad idea to put another thousand miles on it like this or should I get a rental? From a driving standpoint, everything is totally normal, only symptom seems to be in-town fuel economy.
Lean codes both banks Engine would run hot according to this thread.
 






Another 1000 miles running lean not a good idea

You see the codes mean it has already dumped as much fuel as it can to compensate and it is still reading lean because your intake plenum is leaking

Do the o rings
Ohv engine it takes 2 hours tops
Sohc engine it takes 4 hours tops ( can be done in like 45 minutes if you are prepared and do them often)

You will have plenty of time to do them if you blow your engine driving lean
It is not good not good at all to keep driving like that
You can Google what happens to an engine when it runs lean for too long ;)

$30 parts maybe $25 for tools if you need a flex drive and torx but, I re seal both upper and lower plenum s on the sohc engine does not hurt to do fuel injector seats and o rings at same time
Don’t forget a new egr o ring

Make the time
Your engine is sucking in air and crap from around the base of your plenum
Your mpg sucks, it’s running hot, it’s dumping fuel..
It is a simple repair and very rewarding to do yourself $$$$$$
 






Appreciate that reply. Needed someone to confirm my suspicions. I have Sunday free and then a trip Tuesday. I'm gonna get a gasket set and then get after it Sunday morning! I'm a chef who works pretty crazy hours so I've been putting it off over and over again, and called my mechanic to ask about availability today, and of course, you can't get work done these days in a short amount of time. So just as I always knew, I'm gonna have to do it myself.

My current engine is an OHV, and I've definitely taken the intakes off an SOHC before, so I more or less know what I'm getting into, I have all the torx bits and socket extensions. Might even get the torque wrench out and do it to spec!
 






KISS and check for vac leaks elsewhere first. You don’t want to do all that work just to realize you still have a big ol’ leak the day before your trip.

That said, prob the gaskets…but still worth giving her a good once over anyway
 






Ohv is easier then sohc you do not need torx bit or flex drive for ohv

The plastic manifold ohv have been known to warp the intake or even develop cracks in the intake so while it is off inspect it

Good idea to spot your leaks before you take it all apart. Usually black soot all around the base gaskets where they are leaking is pretty obvious

Other sources of large vacuum leaks can be the hoses at the vacuum tree, bad egr o ring, or intake tube, but 99.5% of the time it’s the intake o rings

Ohv is easy enough to get it done before lunch ;)
 






ohv that easy? dang sohc!!!! had a bit of a lesrning curve to it! next rig i get is either ohv or v8 at this rate 🤣 like hownthe sohc scoots, but the conplexity sometimes is just:banghead:
 






ohv that easy? dang sohc!!!! had a bit of a lesrning curve to it! next rig i get is either ohv or v8 at this rate 🤣 like hownthe sohc scoots, but the conplexity sometimes is just:banghead:
I can tear down my intake in a hour flat on the SOHC
 






After you do it once or twice, SOHC is quick.

I’ve got both a SOHC and a V8. I greatly prefer the power delivery and smoothness of the V8, but the SOHC is a great performing motor, too. Neither one is bad to work on. It’s just those damn timing components on the SOHC that I swear gave me PTSD. Every rattle and clatter I hear, my mind goes right to ‘is it the timing set….?’

And 4R70W >>> 5R55E. If you get a 5R that had the Ford upgrades done and has been WELL maintained and not beaten on, it’ll last a long time…but that 70-dub is a tank. 5R does shift very smoothly though…

Haven’t driven my SOHC in months, and I miss it. Gotta get this rear end rebuilt, my V8 just dumped its AC in time for summer…I see the @donalds AC system rebuild thread on my horizon
 






After you do it once or twice, SOHC is quick.

I’ve got both a SOHC and a V8. I greatly prefer the power delivery and smoothness of the V8, but the SOHC is a great performing motor, too. Neither one is bad to work on. It’s just those damn timing components on the SOHC that I swear gave me PTSD. Every rattle and clatter I hear, my mind goes right to ‘is it the timing set….?’

And 4R70W >>> 5R55E. If you get a 5R that had the Ford upgrades done and has been WELL maintained and not beaten on, it’ll last a long time…but that 70-dub is a tank. 5R does shift very smoothly though…

Haven’t driven my SOHC in months, and I miss it. Gotta get this rear end rebuilt, my V8 just dumped its AC in time for summer…
Yeah, I love the SOHC its actually quicker than the V8 but right now I'm not looking for fast I just want it reliable
 






If you haven’t broken any timing components yet, consider going to mechanical tensioners.

I swapped in a used 2010 Ranger long block ($1000 from LKQ in 2015) with 36k on it. The later SOHC engines apparently have better timing components. I have 170k on that engine with Ford OEM tensioners still (I change them every 75k, but mechanicals are next) and she’s going very strong.

Other than the timing set, the SOHC is a BIG mile motor. Very strong bottom end. Mechanicals and/or a pre-oiler while staying on top of the hydraulic tensioner maintenance makes for a long lasting engine
 


















If you haven’t broken any timing components yet, consider going to mechanical tensioners.

I swapped in a used 2010 Ranger long block ($1000 from LKQ in 2015) with 36k on it. The later SOHC engines apparently have better timing components. I have 170k on that engine with Ford OEM tensioners still (I change them every 75k, but mechanicals are next) and she’s going very strong.

Other than the timing set, the SOHC is a BIG mile motor. Very strong bottom end. Mechanicals and/or a pre-oiler while staying on top of the hydraulic tensioner maintenance makes for a long lasting engine
All my rear guides are broke but she still runs strong
 






I just look at that intake ..wink at it
The Explorers front fenders turn red
Then the intake just falls off
 






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