Learning as I go, but need a little help...

[ZacD]

Okay, total noob here. 97 Mountaineer v8, has a problem with the oil pressure. It starts fine, but after less than a mile the idiot gauge starts bouncing off the ends of it's travel. I hooked up a test gauge, and the pressure starts around 25-30, then drops to 10 when the engine heats up.

Like I said, noob, so from here on, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm currently suspecting the oil pump or a clogged pickup screen, either of which mean I'll be pulling the oil pan.

So I have it up on a couple of jack stands at the moment, looking to see how I'm going to start this project, but from underneath I see this:

Question 1: What is the little tube to the left in pic 1, just above the wire to whatever sensor that is?

Q2: The hole I can see gear teeth through. What is it? No, seriously, I think I saw someone else ask this in another thread. Answer they got was some sort of visual inspection port that should have a dust/dirt cover. Just want to know for sure.

Q3: Just how bad is it that there's all that oil on everything under there? It looks like it came out of the "inspection port" and got all over everything.

 

[Turdle]

Welcome to the forum.

You might try a new oil pressure sending unit for the bouncing needle.

1- The tube is a overflow-vent for the transmission

3-You have a leaking rear main seal. It may leak less with a new pcv valve but probably needs replaced.

2- Yes, there should be a rubber plug over the inspection hole.


The oil pan will be a Giant PITA to remove with the engine in the truck. It is possible but you will have to remove the steering rack. The engine and transmission have to be separated for rear main seal replacement.

I now it is easy for me to say, sitting here in my recliner doing nothing, but I think time would be best spent pulling out the engine for a pump replacement, and rear main seal replacement.

 

[ZacD]

Hey Turdle, thanks for the reply. I know I've gone through a lot of your posts already working on this thing.

Yeah, I did try a new sending unit, seemed fine for a little while but then the needle started bouncing again.

Overflow vent huh... okay, then I don't have to keep asking myself what I ripped off the end of it. Good to know.

Rubber plug, ok, will find one.

Leaking rear main seal... sounds fun. Same with pulling the engine. Guess I better start doing more research, and see what equipment I can get my hands on. Any recommendations?

Okay, last thing for this post: is it worth it for me to continue working on this myself? I think I've done okay on a few repairs so far. But for someone who hasn't had any sort of training, and probably doesn't have the exact right tools, is this a job I should hand off to someone else? I would like to do it, both to learn more and to save some money... None of the parts for this seem all that expensive, but the time involved sounds like it would be pretty costly if I brought it to someone.

 

[Turdle]

If you have a place to work on it with at least a 8 1/2 foot ceiling, where it can be stored ( or outside on level concrete), some friends who may lend a hand once in a while, and other transportation then buying the required tools will almost surely be half of the labor. You can buy an engine hoist at harbor frieght for around 100.00 these days.

If you have another vehicle you will have the luxury of time. If you don't have another vehicle, I strongly suggest dumping this one and starting over. It is rare to remove an engine and have everything you might break or need on hand. Allowing for a weekend repair could bite you hard on a Sunday when you need to drive to work Monday AM.

 

[ZacD]

For now, time and transportation aren't an issue.

I believe I have the space, just needs to be cleaned out a little more. Separate garage, I think someone else might have done engine work in there previously. There's an I-beam across two wooden beams, all bolted to the structure. I've been debating on trying to use that with a hoist and some chain/straps.

Besides nuts, bolts, gaskets (?), and fluids, what else might I break or need? Not asking for a shopping list or anything like that, but if there's something stupidly common but easy to miss/forget, that would be good to know. Definitely understand the possibility of breaking things - I did the water pump, or most of it at least. One of those bolts just didn't want to come out... had someone else get that last one free... anyway...

Starting to sound like I should go ahead and move forward on this project. Thanks a lot for all the advice, it's very much appreciated.

 

[1998Exp]

Question for Turdle and/or other engine experts. How sure can the O/P be of the root cause for the low oil pressure diagnosis being the oil pump or pickup screen? What if the main bearings are shot and his efforts are for naught? Shouldn't he check those first when the engine is on a stand?

 

[ZacD]

1998Exp:

Thanks for pointing out an alternate possibility. If I do end up working on this myself, that'll be on my list of things to check. Once I get in there, I can probably start crossing things off - the screen should be pretty obvious at least.



So, I was just reminded of another thing: the guy who helped me with the water pump said the engine isn't the original. It's most likely the 96 version.

Time to do more research and see how much that changes things.

 

[Turdle]

Is there a manufacture date on the driver door label?

 

[ZacD]

Will check in a few. Meanwhile: wouldn't that just give me the original engine info? Or does that get updated if somebody swaps engines? (I would think only if it were a dealer...)

EDIT: Okay, here's the label on the door.

 

[Turdle]

Since it was manufactured in 1996 I see how it could have a "1996" engine and wiring harness. I'd assume it is an internal egr system.