Let the plans begin.......Solid axle swap with 4link

[leebo]

I have found a 1979(at least I think it is) Ford Bronco in somewhat good shape. The owner is a friend of mine and I think he's looking to sell it. The engine and tranny is blown as far as we can tell, but I don't want either. From what I can find on the net it's got the two things I want, a dana 44 up front and a ford 9' in the rear. I've decided I'd rather widen the rear due to the higher speeds I like to drive through the desert rather than cut the front. I'm also looking into adding coils in the rear and maybe mount the rear axle a few inches foward to help with the stearing. I know this is a HUGE project and I know nothing about this type of setup, but I'm withen a passport of some of the worlds best off-road shops.

My questions to you are simple

1. I would like to keep the stock T-case to save money. Do you think there's a company that makes an adapter to work between the 2 axles?? Same for the tranny.

2. I'm going to buy the Bronco outright for around $1000(I hope), what are some of the other parts I'll need(not counting the lift and the 4link in the rear) for the swap to work.

3. About how would I go about the stearing?? I know that I'll need to get a new box and knuckles, but what else did you need to make it work??

4. What year did Ford start using the TTB on the Bronco. I'm not 100% sure if it does have a solid axle up front due to me not 100% knowing the year.

5. Am I wasting my time?? I VERY new at this type of work and will not be doing any of the work myself. I'm getting together most of the parts I'll need and making most of the plans now and working on saving up money(darn stock market) to toss at the shop and let them make it work. I know that anything can be done with the right amount of money, but I'd like to keep this withen the 5000-9000 dollar range. That includes the swap, tires and wheels, new gears and locker, coil-over shocks, fiberglass, and whatever else I may need.

 

[NoBoundaries]

Well, 78 and 79 Broncos have a solid front axle. Ford started using the TTB suspension in 1980. That's one of the few questions I can answer concerning 78+ Broncos!

 

[Clint]

why wouldn't the transfer case work because the axles both have the same pumpkin line up points as the dana 35 and 8.8 (almost positive)

 

[leebo]

I never even though of looking at how the pumpkin lines up. ??? Looks like I now have another 2 things to worry about. Add ABS questions to the list. I don't think it came with ABS so I'll need to add so braking mods to the list too. Good thing I'm at least a year away.

 

[rpenner54]

Originally posted by leebo
I have found a 1979(at least I think it is) Ford Bronco in somewhat good shape. The owner is a friend of mine and I think he's looking to sell it. The engine and tranny is blown as far as we can tell, but I don't want either. From what I can find on the net it's got the two things I want, a dana 44 up front and a ford 9' in the rear. I've decided I'd rather widen the rear due to the higher speeds I like to drive through the desert rather than cut the front. I'm also looking into adding coils in the rear and maybe mount the rear axle a few inches foward to help with the stearing. I know this is a HUGE project and I know nothing about this type of setup, but I'm withen a passport of some of the worlds best off-road shops.

My questions to you are simple

1. I would like to keep the stock T-case to save money. Do you think there's a company that makes an adapter to work between the 2 axles?? Same for the tranny.

2. I'm going to buy the Bronco outright for around $1000(I hope), what are some of the other parts I'll need(not counting the lift and the 4link in the rear) for the swap to work.

3. About how would I go about the stearing?? I know that I'll need to get a new box and knuckles, but what else did you need to make it work??

4. What year did Ford start using the TTB on the Bronco. I'm not 100% sure if it does have a solid axle up front due to me not 100% knowing the year.

5. Am I wasting my time?? I VERY new at this type of work and will not be doing any of the work myself. I'm getting together most of the parts I'll need and making most of the plans now and working on saving up money(darn stock market) to toss at the shop and let them make it work. I know that anything can be done with the right amount of money, but I'd like to keep this withen the 5000-9000 dollar range. That includes the swap, tires and wheels, new gears and locker, coil-over shocks, fiberglass, and whatever else I may need.

1. You don't need an adapter. You just will need new drive shafts.

2. Well since your going 4 link, none of the other parts. Although the t-case may come in handy, more heavy duty more bullet proof floor shifted, however probably no way to bolt it up to your tranny.

3. You shouldn't need a new box. Your box should be fine if its working now. The knuckles I am not sure on. Depends on the type of stearing you do, crossover or whatnot.

4. 1980

5. No, however plan and plan and plan everything out before you put your bucks down. 4 link isn't all that great when you can get a decent amount of flex out of the front using the stock radius arms that come with that truck. Later upgrading to a wristed arm. To me this seems much more proven then a 4 link. Most ZJ's and Cherokee owners with Stock 4 link want to convert to a radius arm system. Its simpler and easier to fix, lift ect...

As far as anything else goes, lengthen your wheelbase, don't shorten it. It will work better on the rocks and any other places where stability and good approach angles are needed.

As far as ABS goes, trash that system for something that works. Like locking them up. The abs hurts more then it helps on the rocks.

Those are my thoughts anyway.

 

[leebo]

I am going to get some custom radius arms for both the front and the rear. I'm not too sure how they will be, but I will not waste my time keeping the stock ones. I'm only wanting to lift it around 4', just enough to run 33's with a fiberglass front. Most of that will be left up to whomever is doing the work.

As for making it longer or shorter........I do see where having a longer wheelbase may help, I also like the idea of better stearing in tighter area's. I also may keep everything stock length depending on the plans the shop has. I've already planned on both new driveshafts and complete new gears and such. Well see where it goes from here.

 

[RON COX]

Hey Lee I think lifting your rig 4 feet and only putting 33's on it will be funny looking! Hehe. Fabritech makes a complete bolt on kit for the D44. I don't know what the cost is though. The smallest lift is 6 inches, from there it goes 8, 10 and 12 inches. Fabtech also makes a kit. I'm sure some triming will need to be done on the front engine x-member, like Rick's. Personally I would do a SOA for the 9 inch and buy a high pinion carrier. You'll gain almost 3 inches in pumkin clearance. I guess being the snow plow on "Mormon Pass" got you thinking! Let me know what happens with the Bronco. See ya!

 

[leebo]

You know I'm still missing some paint on the front of my diff from that run. Guess I'm too lazy to repaint it. O well.

I also think that my plans have already taken a twist. A guy at work said he has a neighbor that has a pre80 bronco that has been gutted out, but still has the axles. He's asking about it for me and thinks that he'll get rid of it for around 200.

You still looking to do the solid axle swap too?? I may have one for you.

 

[RON COX]

Let me know if you do. Depending on the cost of the kit I may do it later this year. I can't justify spending a ton of money doing the conversion, but I need to start collecting parts too. Do you dave anyone lined up for the swap? The pass should be clear enough to make a run, let me know when you want to head up.

 

[NIGHTRANGER5.0]

Buying that swap kit is a waist of money! From what i've seen on the net you can swap in coils and radius arm suspensions using factory parts that bolt on.

About the only thing to be custom made is the x-member between radius mounts and frame and then the bracket for the track bar. Depending upon where you trans x-member is you may need to incorporate the trans mount to the radius arm x-member.

With a competant welder on hand it would be a breeze!

I have some pics in my e-mail i can fwd to anyone that wants them.

Steering is another issue but that can be bought in kit form. I've also seen people come up with some factory looking setups as well.

 

[Sandy]

Axle $$$$$$ too much !

Why but a 1979 Bronco just for the axles...

Sorry but that is too much to pay for a set of axles man.
A good set of Early Bronco Axles with 4:11 gears and maybe even a posi unit should run not more than approx $500.00.
If there are lockers and good inner axles and stuff like that then go for it but.

Not to knock you but what will the Explorer look like with the wider axles ?
The early bronco axles with a ten inch rim and 3.5 to 4 inches of back spacing will keep the tire outside of the body as it is.
You mentioned racing in the desert, well rangers are used for racing and there axles are not made wider, well maybe a little but not to a full size.

At least rethink the idea of buying the Bronco for the axle untill you have checked out the local scrape yards.

Good Luck on what ever your discussion.

Keep it on all Four

 

[Sandy]

Another Post / D44 / Stock Parts

My '92 Navajo runs a Dana 44, 4.30 gears, air locker, Curry Axles and F150 Disc Brakes.
How did I do it ?
Well I took the D44, radius arms and brakets, spring buckets and trak bar from and early Bronco. I got the Early Bronco coil springs from Valley Spring Service to allow for articulation and ride quality.
I set up the spring bucket in the stock Explorer location, installed teh coils and put the D44 in place. Hooked up the coils, positioned radius arm brkts and the D44 for two things, 1) Centered in the wheel wells and 2) the same measurement from the rear end to the D44 on both sides.
Welded in the buckets, track bar and radius arm brkts and all done. The shock mounts are from an F250 and the radius arm brackets are from a '79 F150, not an early bronco.

The rear end is a 9"er and is just a matter of mounting the housing under the springs, then buying lifted leaf springs to level off the vehicle.

I know it is not that easy but as stated above by someone it can be done without a kit, and with a little thought it should not cost an arm and a leg.

Good Luck,
Keep it on all Four.

 

[CHH777]

You go Sandy!

The Dana 35 TTB actually makes a great desert runner. But I too have the D44 bug so I'm looking at options as well...

 

[leebo]

I've been going on a few runs with the folks at Mcferson racing(sp??) as well as talking to them and Perry's fab about the change. I'm now not too sure about running a 44 or sticking with the 35. I'm going to use the 9' if I can do to the fact of welding coils onto the rear can become a pain with the 8.8 as well as I'll need to move the gas tank to make it a true 4 link. I'm relooking at my options on the Dana 44. I like the extra flex I'd get, but the harder stearing may not be worth it. I'm meeting with Justin from Perry's fab at moab to start working everything out.

 

[Sandy]

Perry's Fab

Nothing against this shop, but he does think that his lift are the best thing going... I guess you need to believe in your products.

The independent may work out well, but the problem is, under hard wheeling they don't stand up. Alignment always needs tweeking, the ball joints are not as rugged, the axles are weaker, what ever... go the way you feel is right.

To get the D44 to articulate the same distance as the independant requires a little more work than just bolting it in place.

Good Luck, and look at all option before you jump.

 

[sirhk100]

Have you talked to the shop right next door to Perry McNiel's? It's run by his cousin or son or something. www.mcneilracing.com They are a little cheaper then Perry and the work is identicle. It's a little family competition thing!!
Khris

 

[Sandy]

D44 vs Lift ?!?!?!?

The only problem with the D44 solid axle in the front is that you require a lot of lift to make it work and articulate. You can take a hammer to it or a torch and cut up the cross member to allow yourself a couple inches of extra clearance and strength loss or you can add lift. I think the correct amount is around 5.5 to 6"s is required for clearance.
The Fabertech lift looks well engineered but I do not like the way the track arm is attached. But as I alway say if it works for you do it.
I am using stock EB axles with 5.5 inch coils up front and axle under in the rear. Once I figure out where the front end will rest I will buy new leaf pacs to level the set up. The 5.5 EB spring seems like a lot, but in the Explorer/Navajo setup the top of the coil is located a little higher so it tends to equal out.

Good Luck in which ever kit or method you use.
Keep it on all four,

 

[tiessen]

I'm using James Duff 3.5" variable rate EB coils in my Exploder (with a cutdown 79 Bronco Dana 44) and they give 5.5-6" of lift. I didn't have to touch the rear end after the swap (from my previous Stupidlift SOA). I love my coils, real soft (175lbs/in and 360 lbs/in compared to 450 lbs/in in my old Superlift coils). I'm not running a front sway bar right now and it still handles great!

 

[leebo]

I'm still not too sure if I'll use the dana 44 or the stock 35. The deal on the bronco fell through so I'm left without an axle. I really wanting the coils on all 4 more than the 44 anyways. I'm looking around the house to find spare change right now to fund both this mod as well as maybe a move back east. Right now both are in the future. With the move maybe in the future I'd like to keep the mod to around $5000(which also doen't help the 44 idea) and that includes tires and such. I'm almost sure that I'll be able to at least run coils on all 4 with new custom radius arms and maybe a roll cage for around that price. I'm not looking into what to do with the gas tank. With the stock explorer being off-centered it's in the way of a true 4 link. Maybe a call to Simpson Racing and a new fuel cell will do the trick.

I've been talking to McFereson Racing as well as Perry's Fab about several ideas. I'll keep you posted.