Let there be light....kind of | Ford Explorer Forums

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Let there be light....kind of

kert0307

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 6, 2005
Messages
2,392
Reaction score
12
City, State
Pella, Iowa
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Sport and '89 B2
Well guys i just got my lights in yesterday so i've been working on getting them installed. Here's what they look like so far. They are 6" lights with 130w H3 bulbs. and the lenses have a slight blue tint. Arn't working yet because i need to find a better grounding point, but what does everyone think? The lenses are a little bluer then i thought they'd be, but other then that, i like them.

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looks sweet man! how do u have them mounted? and as far as grounding i ended wiring all the lights to a 12ga wire and running it down to the body back when i had 4 lights on my roof.
 












looks really good. Did you just drill a hole in the OME rack and then bolt it in?
 






ya, i just drilled holes in the factory rack. I need to figure out a way to aim the lights lower though, because they are currently as low as the mounting brackets will let them go and they are still angled higher then i want them. From what i hear the racks on some other years arn't very strong, but mine seems to be ok. I also made it eaily removable by using the plugs for trailer wiring up near the light bar. I can take th hole thing off in about 30 sec.....kinda worried about people sealing it because of that though.

Anyone have suggestions for locking the roof rack?
 






Sounds like you will either have to shim the lights or the rack/bar.
For the lights you can cut a thick washer in half and put/silicone it under the light mount on ea. light.
For the bar..I dont know.
 












So your pulling 43 amps through a trailer wiring connector?? Not good. Something will BURN. You need around 8 gauge wire to take that kind of load. Trailer wiring is way to small.


Mac
 






cmacclel said:
So your pulling 43 amps through a trailer wiring connector?? Not good. Something will BURN. You need around 8 gauge wire to take that kind of load. Trailer wiring is way to small.


Mac


it's a 4 prong connector, so it's 20amps per wire(i think it's 16 gauge at least). ya, it's pretty high for that gauge wire, but there's less then a foot of it, and i've felt the connector after the lights have been on for awhile and it's not even warm....i'm not worried.
 












in case there's any other question on the wireing, the rest of the wires are 12 gauge and run to two 30amp relays, and two 30 amp fuses. It's set up so i can turn the inside and outside lights on independantly.
 






kert0307 said:
ya, i just drilled holes in the factory rack. I need to figure out a way to aim the lights lower though, because they are currently as low as the mounting brackets will let them go and they are still angled higher then i want them. From what i hear the racks on some other years arn't very strong, but mine seems to be ok. I also made it eaily removable by using the plugs for trailer wiring up near the light bar. I can take th hole thing off in about 30 sec.....kinda worried about people sealing it because of that though.

Anyone have suggestions for locking the roof rack?

Just tighten the screws down as tight as you can, I even tapped them tighter with a small hammer. That is what I did and I've never had a problem. You may get a slight vibration if you use the lights at high speeds, but mine have been mounted like that for five years and I have banged them on branches plenty of times without loosing one or bending the bar. Looks good. :thumbsup:
 












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