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Lets Talk Welding Rods

MountaineerGreen

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I don't have access to a wire welder, but Arc welders are everywhere.

I can weld pretty good with E6011 rods, but they make a big mess with splatter. They burn in well, and I haven't had them break often. But, I am in search of a stronger, more attractive weld.

I have used E6013's to some degree with good results. I have tried E7014's, but can't get penetration or a consistent weld, I think mostly because it was on old steel.

I am asking because I am going to weld on perches and shock mounts on my axle tube next weekend.

Fab experts- tell me what you use, where, when and why, please.
 



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oh oh oh i'm curious too!

I can run a half way decent bead with 6011's when jupiter and mars are in perfect alignment but just like you said...messy as hell!
 






well I don't consider myself a fab expert anymore since I have not professionally welding in over 12 years but...

I use MIG, did you try 7018, that is what we always used for structural welding, you may need to up the amps for better penetration, but it yields a much stronger cleaner weld.

6011 is still a great all purpose rod, I tell you what, more important than rod selection is area prep. That is having a clean prepared surface that will give you a solid (non porous weld). I would put a 6011 with a clean weld up against almost anything else welded on dirt or rust.

Also if you doing frame welding you may want to look into preheating methods, because you may end up weakening the frame without it, just because you are over hardening the area with the rapid heating and cooling of stick welding. But that really depends where and what you are welding on.

Oh and whatever rod you use let them sit in your oven for an hour or so at 100 - 150 just to make sure they are good and dry.

not sure if I was much help here.
 






oh oh oh i'm curious too!

I can run a half way decent bead with 6011's when jupiter and mars are in perfect alignment but just like you said...messy as hell!

clean surface and more practice with the stick it's all about finesse, amps/rod size and surface prep. The 6011 is one of the easiest rods to weld with so keep practicing with it before you go to the cleaner 70 series. you will just frustrate yourself.

Oh and keep those rods dry:thumbsup: rods that sit in a damp shop will be resistant to proper startup and burn. I used to make sealed boxes with a 100 watt light bulb in it to keep the rods dry and warm. Makes a huge difference in the weld. IMHO
 






Fortunately all of the metal I have welded so far has been new so it's good and clean. I have run a few nice beads using the back up method, and fortunately I really haven't had a problem with porous welds. I think my main problem is puddle control, the welds are not really uniform in width. Sorry mg...didn't mean to hijack your thread there :thumbsup:
 






I do a bit of stick welding, and I use 6013's most of the time. My neighbor was a professional welder for a while and built and maintains his own logging truck. He also uses 6013's for most mild steel work (He's the reason I use them).
 






uniformity comes with practice, don't rush the weld, think slow and steady.
 












you need a cheap anti splatter spray, used motor oil can serve the purpose, although not quite as good as the commercial stuff it helps. Just don't get any of that stuff on the welding area. itself. :thumbsup:
 






I've used just about every rod on the market and the BEST I've found is the US Forge "Steel" rod.

It doesn't carry a number so good luck trying to cross-reference it with anyone else's rods.

I've had welding shops tell me it is a 7014 -- it isn't.

It is the easiest striking, lowest spatter, best welding rod I've used, bar none. It also has around an 85,000 tensile strength, which makes it sufficient for suspension work. Perfect for home use on smaller AC welders!

You will love that rod. :thumbsup:
 






OK...It has been a few years since I went through welding school ( year long Vo-Tech...graduated it in '87...certified in MIG and stick, vert.up and overhead)

As far as a good average rod to use for general purpose with pretty clean steel: 6013 or 7014. Easy to hold a good arc length and less spatter than a 6010 or 6011. With the right setting, you can lay the rod on the steel and it will "move" itself. Good for the flat position or slightly down-hill. Fair penetration

Dirty/oily/rusty steel: 6010 or 6011. Burns through the crud and rust. Lots of spatter, but if its rusty...who cares. Good for any position...best for over-head. Excellent penetration...with the correct setting. If it keeps "sticking" when you try to strike an arc, turn up the power.:thumbsup:

Clean "structural" parts ie: spring perches and the such: 7018. It's a low-hydrogen rod. If you are welding on med-carbon steel, cold rolled steel or frames, these are the way to go. These are the rods that I (we) used for our certification tests.

As with ALL welding...stick, MIG, TIG or gas, setting the machine or torch is THE KEY....along with PRACTICE. Our first day in welding class, the instructor handed each of us an "I-beam" about 12" long and 5" thick and said fill-it up. I can't remember how long it took me to fill that sucker up, but after the 3rd or 4th day, we found some 1/4" rods...made it go alot faster but alot hotter too...200+ amps:eek:

I could go on for hours about this stuff...let me know if you have any Q's. I guess this is my "payback" to glfredrick and all the others for my X problems with the PCM.

Mike.....USAF--17.5 years...2.5 to go!:salute:
 






I have all of the rods mentioned available to me except for the "steel" rod. 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018.

I plan to throughly clean the area I intend to weld with a flap disk to remove any paint.

I am pretty good at welding with a 6011 and 6013 rod, I can make the "stack of dimes" weld, fairly consistent width. I welded my Superlift brackets, and over a year later, no failures. I will have my axle out, so I can position it in the best way to get a good weld.



I will clean off some scraps, and practice welding with the 7018 rod and adjust my temperature setting like that.
 






just make sure you bake them before using. I know that shops usually bake them at like 350 right before they use them makes them easier to start. and ensures that they are completely dry and burn consistent. But if you at least dry them at 100 to 150 it will help a lot. If they are new in the sealed package no worries :thumbsup:

sounds like your set.. Man I love to weld metal, there is something about burning two peices of metal together :D
 






sounds like your set.. Man I love to weld metal, there is something about burning two peices of metal together :D

We have a plasma cutter at the lab. I've grown really, really, really fond of cutting things apart... its just tooooo easy ;)
 












All you are trying to do when you "bake" the rods is remove any moisture from them...that is why it is "critical" for the 7018's...low hydrogen...H2O...;) . If you can, just keep them sealed at all times. If you have a spare oven (pizza oven would be perfect for a small amount of rods), set it at the lowest setting and go for it. You are not trying to bake the rods...that was done during manufacturing...but just to keep them dry. :thumbsup:
 






Can they be baked in an oven with no ill effects for cooking?

I can bake them just before I go, but the shop/welder is at work, and I'd have to bake them at home.

yes, although I do get some odd looks from my wife when I do it. Just lay them on a peice of aluminum foil and bake away. you could always use an easy bake oven LOL JK..
 












I acutally keep my rods in the garage fridge as well mg.
 



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