Well, I was going to edit the previous post, but I'll just continue here. Another post, yay! I was on my phone and hit send instead of cancel...oh well.
If you do it yourself:
This is how I did it and the way I did it may range from unnecessary to wrong (hopefully someone will correct if so). Follow at your own risk.
The AAL you want is Pro Comp 13120. It comes with two sets of center pins. I don't remember the size, but I believe you use the larger of the two. You will need to shorten the center pins and rethread the ends as they are too long.
Put both the axle and the frame on jack stands; I used six. Didn't really have to lift the truck since it's on 35s, but if the spare's removed I think you can do this without really lifting the truck even on stock tires. Having the axle up higher will make it easier to use God's blessings like impact wrenches, though.
Clamp the leaf pack together. Probably unnecessary but I clamped them on both sides of the axle. More work to clamp and unclamp two, but I had nothing but time that day. Put a jack under the shock mounting plate (correct name someone?). Remove the four nuts off of the ubolts. This is where the impact wrench came in handy. When they're removed, slowly let the jack down until the leaf pack is fully extended.
This is where my memory gets a little fuzzy. You'll need to remove the centering pin and add the new leaf. There's a detailed step or two in here I'm sure I'm missing, but this is certainly one of those jobs that just makes sense when you're doing it. There's no complicated calculations, special tools or super brain power needed. This is where you'll need to figure out the length you need the centering pin, cut it and rethread. Ok, maybe there's some measuring and an almost special tool. Just use medium brain power and run to the nearest parts counter for a cheap and useful tool.
Once you get through that poorly described process above, simply jack the leaf pack back up to the axle, making sure the centering pin goes in it's home. Tighten down the u-bolts, again with the impact. I read somewhere what the torque specs were and just used that info at the time and finished torquing them down with the torque wrench. If you don't have one, they're a little more pricey and may be something you don't just go out and grab. I'm not sure how important it is to be properly torqued on these bolts so maybe someone will fill that info in along with how much is necessary. Checked them again a couple hundred miles later and they were still to spec and again a couple weeks ago when I changed my oil and still ok.
And that's it. Drive around aggressively through a field for a few minutes to get them to settle and get a final measurement. This last step can be done on road if you don't have a field handy, it'll just take longer. I do not condone driving through neighbors yards at high speed, either.
If you pay a shop:
It shouldn't be over $100 but I could see a shop charging $120-$160; I wouldn't pay more than that. They realistically shouldn't be charging for more than an hour shop time, though.
Since this is still a picture thread:
They are certainly more stiff but gave the squishy rear end the solid feel I wanted. The RS5000 shocks are a part of that, also. Although more stiff, they still get the movement I need:
I won't elaborate any more on why I prefer them over shackles as that has been beat to death and there's lots of opinions and you obviously already found some through the search. If nothing else, I think the AAL looks better than the shackles hanging down.