Locker!!!!! Front or Rear?

[colintrax]

The "logic" for 3 wheels spinning verses 2 makes no sense. Locking either end will be 3 wheels spinning. If the transfer case or weaker front end breaks is the only way you'd lose a powered wheel. Which is even more reason for a rear locker. Just because you did a front locker first doesn't mean it's best....

 

[adamsbro2]

The "logic" for 3 wheels spinning verses 2 makes no sense. Locking either end will be 3 wheels spinning. If the transfer case or weaker front end breaks is the only way you'd lose a powered wheel. Which is even more reason for a rear locker. Just because you did a front locker first doesn't mean it's best....

I honestly didnt even think about still having the locker if the front or transfer case broke......thats a very good point thank you

 

[ZTraz77]

im running a detroit rear and an aussie up front and the truck handles very well on the road despite all those locked axles

 

[adamsbro2]

im running a detroit rear and an aussie up front and the truck handles very well on the road despite all those locked axles

Much driving at freeway speeds in 4wheel drive? And how long have you had the aussie? How much offroad have you used it? Ive heard they are kinda weak.

 

[4x4junkie]

I say if you're going to put an ARB in either axle, put 'em in both (and start with the front). You only have to buy one compressor for both differentials.
In the meantime, add the extra steel disc to your rear L/S. It makes a world of difference in any conditions short of having a wheel hanging in the air.

 

[cmhaah06]

Oh ya and you still have 3 wheels whether its in front or rear it just determines which axle will have 2 vs 1....rear=2rear 1 front....front =2 front 1 rear.....so the whole 3 tires moving over 2 makes no sense at all

Hahaha.... you're right, it didn't make much sense after I reread it. .... I still say front locker!

 

[colintrax]

What's the reasoning behind going up front first? I see no reason whats so ever. Front end is weaker. The majority of the times a locker will be helpful is up hill, when the front end has less weight. So wheres the benefit?
Yeah a limited slip helps in some situations, but so would more aggressive tires. Because it's only going to work when you've got both tires on the ground, and getting into it pretty good.
Here's a video from GWNF http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ3gl6sMXV8&feature=player_embedded
I'm 2wd, with a limited slip. Clicked the e-brake a little, and made it up right after the video ended however, a limited slip just doesn't do the same as a locker. Even with the e-brake, and spinning 2 grand, it wasn't fully locking.
In my defense, that was the only problems I had all weekend. And that hill was way steeper than it looks

 

[4x4junkie]

What's the reasoning behind going up front first? I see no reason whats so ever. Front end is weaker. The majority of the times a locker will be helpful is up hill, when the front end has less weight. So wheres the benefit?
Yeah a limited slip helps in some situations, but so would more aggressive tires. Because it's only going to work when you've got both tires on the ground, and getting into it pretty good.
Here's a video from GWNF http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ3gl6sMXV8&feature=player_embedded
I'm 2wd, with a limited slip. Clicked the e-brake a little, and made it up right after the video ended however, a limited slip just doesn't do the same as a locker. Even with the e-brake, and spinning 2 grand, it wasn't fully locking.
In my defense, that was the only problems I had all weekend. And that hill was way steeper than it looks

Was your L/S beefed up with the added steel discs?



My thinking is that a locked front, rear L/S (especially with the extra discs) is going to go more places than a open front, locked rear. Because of that weight shift, it's unlikely the rear will be lifting tires, allowing the L/S to maintain a good ability to keep pushing the vehicle forward. Meanwhile, an open front isn't going to do a thing for you if a front tire leaves the ground (you can also forget about trying to drive one front tire up a rock ledge).

Also true the D35 (TTB) is weaker than the 8.8", however it's still plenty strong enough it shouldn't break unless you do something dumb with the throttle (I would suggest doing the Jeep hub swap however).

 

[colintrax]

No, theres no extra disks. And that makes sense, but the l/s really doesn't do much when you leave the road. It helps. Open is worst, but not by much. It's an extremely small "clutch" that can only take so much.
There's a reason you can wheel a 2wd explorer, it's still RWD. You never see FWD vehicles offroad, pulling and pushing aren't the same. You want the pushing wheels having more traction.
If the front tire leaves the ground, you still got the back tires on the ground. With both back tires still pushing. If you're getting a front tire air bourne, 1 back tire is going to be very light. So a l/s won't help unless you gun it.

Look on this forum, how often are people breaking D35 parts, and transfer cases. And how many are breaking the 8.8

 

[adamsbro2]

Was your L/S beefed up with the added steel discs?

My thinking is that a locked front, rear L/S (especially with the extra discs) is going to go more places than a open front, locked rear. Because of that weight shift, it's unlikely the rear will be lifting tires, allowing the L/S to maintain a good ability to keep pushing the vehicle forward. Meanwhile, an open front isn't going to do a thing for you if a front tire leaves the ground (you can also forget about trying to drive one front tire up a rock ledge).

Also true the D35 (TTB) is weaker than the 8.8", however it's still plenty strong enough it shouldn't break unless you do something dumb with the throttle (I would suggest doing the Jeep hub swap however).

I have swapped to warn manual hubs.....aren't they just as strong or damn close?

 

[adamsbro2]

And by the way im loving this discussion so far thanks everyone for your input and please keep debating cause im getting some major help in both directions......in fact I may be more undecided than when I started lol..

 

[4x4junkie]

No, theres no extra disks. And that makes sense, but the l/s really doesn't do much when you leave the road. It helps. Open is worst, but not by much. It's an extremely small "clutch" that can only take so much.
There's a reason you can wheel a 2wd explorer, it's still RWD. You never see FWD vehicles offroad, pulling and pushing aren't the same. You want the pushing wheels having more traction.
If the front tire leaves the ground, you still got the back tires on the ground. With both back tires still pushing. If you're getting a front tire air bourne, 1 back tire is going to be very light. So a l/s won't help unless you gun it.

Look on this forum, how often are people breaking D35 parts, and transfer cases. And how many are breaking the 8.8

It's apparent you haven't driven a beefed-up L/S.
It takes very little pressure to keep it transferring power.

And I know all about people breaking D35s... (see my join date) They break a chinsy stock hub or have the chinese bearings they put in go kaput and then condemn the whole thing and won't do anything but blab about how a SAS is the only way to fix it.
People that put the Jeep hubs on and stick with Timken brand bearings rarely have a problem with it.

I have swapped to warn manual hubs.....aren't they just as strong or damn close?

Are they pt# 37780? If not, then no. They are still far stronger than the auto hubs however.

See this article:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May04/offroad.htm

 

[colintrax]

I haven't. Regardless I know how they work, if you stuff enough in there you could make it permanently locked... my point is that if you want the action of an open diff while turning, then you can't make it lock. Throw 5 plates in there and it might lock, it'll also chirp the tires turning in parking lots.

 

[4x4junkie]

No doubt you would have to be a little easier on the gas in turns to avoid chirping the tires (about how you would with a ratcheting-type locker), but certainly it's not like a spool (if that's what you were implying)

 

[colintrax]

Its like a lincoln locker. Cheap, but not good for a DD. You wanna be able to turn without spinning, or chirping, but still have a full locking action on the trails.

 

[jd4242]

to the OP,what type of wheeling do you do?

my vote is aussie up front and leave the ls plus a clutch or air locker in the back.aussie is cheap so help with the cost of install or for the rear.if you need to make a sharp turn unlock one hub.a ls is stronger than an open any day of the week.if you cant afford the rear now add a clutch,huge difference and get you almost any where

i run aussie locked front and back and those that say d35 are junk is because they abuse them and dont use good parts.i also still run stock warn hubs up front just in case.i have broke one stock hub but it beats a shaft or something major.i can afford to keep a spare in the truck.aussie locked rear on the road is not bad at all unless you just gas it around every turn or drive in snow/ice.

 

[adamsbro2]

to the OP,what type of wheeling do you do?

my vote is aussie up front and leave the ls plus a clutch or air locker in the back.aussie is cheap so help with the cost of install or for the rear.if you need to make a sharp turn unlock one hub.a ls is stronger than an open any day of the week.if you cant afford the rear now add a clutch,huge difference and get you almost any where

i run aussie locked front and back and those that say d35 are junk is because they abuse them and dont use good parts.i also still run stock warn hubs up front just in case.i have broke one stock hub but it beats a shaft or something major.i can afford to keep a spare in the truck.aussie locked rear on the road is not bad at all unless you just gas it around every turn or drive in snow/ice.

I do drive in snow and ice but I think itll be ok locked in the rear.....how do the aussies hold up are they tuff enough for good crawling? And I should say that I have warn hubs up front not sure of part number as they came from a scrap yard. And I have done the ranger knuckle upgrade with timken bearings and moog ball joints....

 

[jd4242]

I do drive in snow and ice but I think itll be ok locked in the rear.....how do the aussies hold up are they tuff enough for good crawling? And I should say that I have warn hubs up front not sure of part number as they came from a scrap yard. And I have done the ranger knuckle upgrade with timken bearings and moog ball joints....

Full time lockers in the snow suck if you do any kind of turning. I luve my aussie and never heard of anyone breaking them when properly installed.ive seen carriers break before the aussie.I run 36x14.50 and they are BIG, more like 37x15 and EXTREMELY heavy. Like I said I still run the d35 and putting down way more power than stock and my truck weighs in over 5, 000lbs..never had a problem with either.I run mountain rocks, mud and on the beach.was also my dd till now, its just gotten little to illegal to drive all the time.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Locked D35, upgraded u-joints, full-circle snaprings, C-clip eleminator, warn hubs, 31" M/Ts
Nice setup, went through parts like no other! Went through tons of shafts, 4 sets of Warns, couldn't keep the bearings together. I once grended a hub at Truckfest, on the rock garden, the end of the hub went flying through a crown of people, bounced a few times and landed about 200ft away.

I will never lock a D35 ever again! Then again, I will never run a D35 again either... And my experience was with a tire 3" shorter and 1" narrower.

In terms of reliability, Detroit rear for sure, and any L/S up front. At least until you ditch the TTB.

Personally I'm in love with my Power-Lok w/ the aggressive clutch kit (D44). It steers like a L/S, yet still pulls with a tire in the air.

FYI, friction-modifier causes smooth slippage. It saves on wear, and keeps soccer moms from complaining of clutch chatter in the grocery store parking lot. If lock up it what you want, don't use it.

 

[adamsbro2]

Locked D35, upgraded u-joints, full-circle snaprings, C-clip eleminator, warn hubs, 31" M/Ts
Nice setup, went through parts like no other! Went through tons of shafts, 4 sets of Warns, couldn't keep the bearings together. I once grended a hub at Truckfest, on the rock garden, the end of the hub went flying through a crown of people, bounced a few times and landed about 200ft away.

I will never lock a D35 ever again! Then again, I will never run a D35 again either... And my experience was with a tire 3" shorter and 1" narrower.

In terms of reliability, Detroit rear for sure, and any L/S up front. At least until you ditch the TTB.

Personally I'm in love with my Power-Lok w/ the aggressive clutch kit (D44). It steers like a L/S, yet still pulls with a tire in the air.

FYI, friction-modifier causes smooth slippage. It saves on wear, and keeps soccer moms from complaining of clutch chatter in the grocery store parking lot. If lock up it what you want, don't use it.

Sas eventually but cant right now so ill be going with my d35 which I actually like for the most part