Locker!!!!! Front or Rear?

[adamsbro2]

To me that would be best but I would do the front first.cant comment on moab but your talking about being able to lock all four tires, you cant get more traction than that....idle for all situations except sharp turns and even then you can manually unlock the front one hub and turn sharp with 3 wheel drive.only way to get all four locked and be able to turn would be a selectable front and rear.you dont wanna do that to the d35 if you plan on sas.keep the front cheap for now.

Why I say front first is because the rear is ls and as long as both tires stay on ground you dont gain much by a locker because its a ls.the front is open, you gain there with a locker and front tires seem to leave the ground more (rock ledges. .) And you can trick the ls rear by applying the ebrake to act more like a locker.

My main concern is if the lunchbox in the front will take the abuse of climbing ledges like what may be found on trails such as Pritchett Canyon?

 

[jd4242]

My main concern is if the lunchbox in the front will take the abuse of climbing ledges like what may be found on trails such as Pritchett Canyon?

I wouldn't see why not.i wheel rocks just fine.your break the d35 before the locker.but aussie is the only lunch box that doesn't have a max wheel size or hp rating.

 

[4x4junkie]

My main concern is if the lunchbox in the front will take the abuse of climbing ledges like what may be found on trails such as Pritchett Canyon?

Agreed, as long as it's installed properly (clearance set correct), I think it would be fine. Though any drop-in type locker will never be as strong as a full-carrier replacement locker (ARB, Detroit).

Something to think about if you do SAS... A D60 is what makes it most worthwhile on these rigs IMO. A D44 is not a huge strength upgrade (has bigger brakes mainly) unless you throw some coin at it (both the D35 and D44 have the same u-joints, for one). Throw that same coin toward a D60 and you'll be way ahead of the game. Until then, the D35 should do you fine unless you outright abuse the thing like an earlier poster obviously did his (which makes all the more reason to go with 1-tons).

 

[adamsbro2]

Agreed, as long as it's installed properly (clearance set correct), I think it would be fine. Though any drop-in type locker will never be as strong as a full-carrier replacement locker (ARB, Detroit).

Something to think about if you do SAS... A D60 is what makes it most worthwhile on these rigs IMO. A D44 is not a huge strength upgrade (has bigger brakes mainly) unless you throw some coin at it (both the D35 and D44 have the same u-joints, for one). Throw that same coin toward a D60 and you'll be way ahead of the game. Until then, the D35 should do you fine unless you outright abuse the thing like an earlier poster obviously did his (which makes all the more reason to go with 1-tons).

When i put my new gears in this it was the first time i had done any differential work so forgive my ROOKIENESS lol but how is the clearance set on the lunchbox lockers? i was under the assumption that it just replaced spiders.

 

[jd4242]

When i put my new gears in this it was the first time i had done any differential work so forgive my ROOKIENESS lol but how is the clearance set on the lunchbox lockers? i was under the assumption that it just replaced spiders.

A spoil just replaces the spiders. A lunchbox will unlock when tq is not being applied to the driveshaft.clearnces are very important to locker setup.there is a thread on here, search aussie install.

 

[4x4junkie]

I've always used full-carrier lockers with the installs I've done, so I don't have 1st-hand experience with a lunchbox, from what I've read (and from failures I've seen involving rounded-off teeth and/or broken pins), the clearance between the couplers has to be set within a certain range. Too tight and the locker will bind & pop, too loose (wide) and it won't engage correctly (slipping).
The installation sheet should tell you what the required clearance is. To adjust it I believe you use different thickness thrust washers behind the couplers (side gears).

 

[jd4242]

Here is the 8.8 install.same for front basically
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325006

 

[CodePoet]

I have a spartan locker in my front d44. Super easy to put in and comes with a hardened cross pin. There is no real setup or clearances to adjust, just follow the directions. You probably wouldn't want a spool in the front. I do run a full spool in the rear (this is the only way to go if you want a spool, mini spools have a reputation for failing). My rig doesn't see much asphalt though.

 

[adamsbro2]

Awesome thanks a ton....... I AM HOPING I can talk the wife into letting me do arb front and rear......would the arb for the dana35 in my ex work for a dana 35 in a heep? I know the gears wont because they are reverse cut and the 35 in a heep is in the rear and not reverse but the locker should still work right? I ask cause if it works for both I should be able to resale the locker when I do the sas down the road but that is going to be a but and I want to lock it up now lol and not be out all the money if possible?

 

[adamsbro2]

I have a spartan locker in my front d44. Super easy to put in and comes with a hardened cross pin. There is no real setup or clearances to adjust, just follow the directions. You probably wouldn't want a spool in the front. I do run a full spool in the rear (this is the only way to go if you want a spool, mini spools have a reputation for failing). My rig doesn't see much asphalt though.

If it wasnt a dd I would definitely spool the rear but for now I cant

 

[jd4242]

Awesome thanks a ton....... I AM HOPING I can talk the wife into letting me do arb front and rear......would the arb for the dana35 in my ex work for a dana 35 in a heep? I know the gears wont because they are reverse cut and the 35 in a heep is in the rear and not reverse but the locker should still work right? I ask cause if it works for both I should be able to resale the locker when I do the sas down the road but that is going to be a but and I want to lock it up now lol and not be out all the money if possible?

That I dont know.im going to guess no because I belive it replaces the carrier and the carriers I believe are different, think just the guts are the same.someone should chime in

 

[CodePoet]

I'm not sure...i didn't spend much time learning about the d35, I wanted it gone lol.

 

[adamsbro2]

On the arb website the part numbers are the same for a 93 jeep dana 35 with 27 splines as the explorer 27 spline dana 35....what I dont know is how common a 27 spline was in the rear end of a jeep.

 

[rickybobby]

IIRC 27 spline was fairly common. Another option if the wife doesnt give you the go-ahead on both ARB's id to get a limited slip Jeep d35 and install it in your front, Maniak did that and loves it.

 

[4x4junkie]

Every D35 made is 27 splines as far as I know. The only ones that are not are aftermarket 30-spline conversions.

So yes, you can buy a D35 ARB for yours and then sell it to a Jeep guy if you have to later. Of course you'll probably get more for it by selling the D35 chunk (or the whole axle) to another RBV owner that can use it just as it is.

 

[adamsbro2]

Ok so ive made a decision....eaton e locker in the rear first.. I will definitely be able to get the aussie up front at least but still a chance I might get the arb, which front depends on cash flow but aussie will at least get done.

 

[Dweeberman]

Right on! Glad to hear you came to a decision Please post back after you have it installed and get the feel of it...would love to hear your personal review.

 

[Four0Sport]

following the thread.. let us know how you like the eaton in the rear

 

[adamsbro2]

following the thread.. let us know how you like the eaton in the rear

Will do if I ever get time to install it lol

 

[FarmageddonNRO]

If you are going to put manual hubs on go with Superwinch... all the others are crap compared to them.