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Solved Long crank & check engine light flash [Solved]

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Rwrighttt

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92 twin sticks
Hey all, I hydrolocked my 92 explorer motor last week, and I just finished swapping in a 91 4.0 v6. Everything went great and all, but when I go to start it, it cranks for a good 5-8 seconds before firing up. Meanwhile the check engine flickers off or comes and goes. Runs great when it starts, no stumble or anything. So it has to be a ignition problem some how. I changed the coil pack and crank sensor with spares and still nothing. New plugs also and cleaned the MAF. I ran a test with my scanner and nothing came up. No check engine light when it's running also, just when cranking. I checked my voltage on my battery and it does dip to 11.5v when cranking. Maybe need a new one. What does the motor need to read to start up? Because I'm thinking its something ignition related. Thanks for any help!
 



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EEC relay or ignition switch.

Flashing CEL while cranking is the PCM loosing power and restarting.

Try a new battery first. Ya I know you "tested it"

Battery first.

Rule out the power supply before you go down the rabbit hole.
 






EEC relay or ignition switch.

Flashing CEL while cranking is the PCM loosing power and restarting.

Try a new battery first. Ya I know you "tested it"

Battery first.

Rule out the power supply before you go down the rabbit hole.

Yeah I figured the battery was an issue, good place to start I guess lol.
 






:thumbsup:
 






Got my voltage all squared away and still nothing. Worse if anything. I decided to drive it for about 15 mins and came back home and now it won't spark. Fuel is good, starter is good. Me and my father (who is a elevator mechanic that uses a meter everyday) checked the coil pack, CKP sensor, EDIS all good. Changed in spare EDIS, coil pack, and CKP sensor for the hell of it and still just cranks with no spark. Check engine light still flashing at random. At a total loss. As of now I'm gonna head to the local yard and find some spare EDIS amd CKP sensors to see if by chance mine are all no good. Just at a loss about how it can drive and run fine, but just take a long time to fire up or spark at all.

Anyone have any thoughts?
 






The computer doesn't know what the coil pack is doing so it wouldn't throw a code for it. It could throw a code for the crank sensor but that's not super likely. You gotta find out why the ECM is blinking the check engine light, it's gotta be a power problem. If you're not getting spark then the fuel pump shouldn't run either. You could see if you're getting power to the fuel pump while cranking and if you are (it primes on startup and without a crank pulse, it shouldn't be running), that would verify that the ECM is still restarting on you and either indicate a bad power supply (relay or ground) or that the ECM is just dead.
 






Pull the PCM and clean the contacts. Many rust belt trucks get salt and water in the kick panel area and corrode the contacts on the computer causing all manner of fun.
 






Got it all squared away! My fuel pump was priming and all btw. I ended up getting 2 edis modules from the yard Saturday and a crank sensor for $20. I already switched it out once with a spare one and still nothing, but I figured get another and try it and sure enough. Plugged in one of the edis and she fired right up with no Check engine light. No problems at all now. I read on some form that a guy with a ranger had a running truck but it had a blown head gasket. So he tore it all down to fixed it, but when he went to fire up no spark. Turns out it was his edis too. So idk what's up with these things just going bad, but that was the problem in my case. Worked fine, then nothing. Thanks for all the help guys!
 






ecm on off

running its best then throw the cell on for a short time then off

i assume its emissions that throw the cod ive been trying to free up a little valve click and power problem i looked at the plugs only one passenger side middle plug had some dry carbons assuming that the intermittant firing or off firing is causing the carbon and the fuel emmisions and possible the click hence a too much unburned stuff into my cat sensors drawing a flag ...usually happens a little after hitting the road and the next day after the fuel expands in my tank

i put an irridium plug in ran some sea foam and even a pinch in the crankcase no more annoying click but some surging at lower rpms

could be a cloged injector but it runs to clean most of the time i want to change a driver or two for the injector thinking someone may have grounded it out on a bad test lead (using the wrong kind of lead to test the injector or just itemittant behavioral semiconduter problem

they caused us problems not socketing the rom and i havnt found a var as to de solder any of the driver transistors they should be the ones zinced to the ecms box but where to get them ?

new cheaper cat sensors may be a problem but everthing ive changed in the engine management department hasnt found my gremlin

the other is i could experiment with changing the timing chain as r's go up the tension on the chain shows more missing as if the truck dosnt know how to use fuel efficiently and lack of power and vibration


sea foam changing the oil and using some hi tech lube has loosened up the valve click but there is evidence of foul play still

ill try a whole can of sea foam in the crankcase then change the oil after a short visit good stuff ....
 






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