Lost power steering ! Help

[BrooklynBay]

There's a way for the dealer to test the pump's pressure without replacing parts to do a diagnosis. They could connect a tee fitting in one of the power steering lines with adapters, then connect a pressure gauge to see what the line pressure is. I don't know if they are willing to do this prior to throwing expensive parts at it.

 

[98 MERC]

you'll pay 99 bux though for them just to tell you it's bad.

That would be 1 hour diagnosis. plus the labor and part charge.

If that doesn't fix it , then you take it to the dealer and have them replace the rack.Simple

Or you could replece the rack yourself, plus the suspension parts the dealer is going to tell you that you need to replace. They may want to take the control arms off, and tell you to put new ones on because the ball joints are bad, if it goes as deep as the rack itself. Just a heads up.



You are looking at a lot of money to fix one problem at the dealer, and leave one old part in.

Yea i was gonna ask you.What is exactly involved with the rack removal ? like what has to come out to get the rack out ? I do need new lower control arms any how LOL.The actual bushings in the arms are worn out and clunk bad.The ball joints are good tho.

 

[Turdle]

New lower control arms with new bj's already installed is the way to go. Around 100 per side.
The 5.0 rack is a beast to tame, but it will come out. once the suspension is out of the way, engine mounts loosened to raise motor a tad , and the lines are detached it will come out. One trick though is you have to install the lines in the correct order, put the wrong line in 1st, and you cannot get the wrench on the next one. I suggest "dry fitting" the wrench before tightening the fittings, if you do this you will figure out which one to tighten down first.
If you do this work yourself, you will be able to rebuild your entire front steering and suspension for less than half of the dealership cost of replacing just the rack and pump. I am not sure but I would guess the ford manual says to hit for 4-5 hours for rack labor. Yeah, it'll take you all day and then some, maybe 2-3 if you rebuild everything up front, but how long will it take to earn the money to pay for the labor.

I might even say a 3rd of the cost of the dealer doing just the pump and rack. The labor for diagnosing and changing the pump will be 2 hrs, which would pay for 2 control arms.
That is how i am force to look at life these days. If I even think I might be able to save a buck I have to try.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You will need to get a wheel alignment after the rack & pinion is installed. Use a flare wrench on the hydraulic hose fittings.

 

[koda2000]

Dealer price are ridiculously high. I had one of my Expl's in for a recall and they performed a "complimentary safety inspection". Then they told me that I should have my ball joints replaced and that they could do it for me for $750. I told them no thanks as I could do the job myself for between $100-$150 (depending on the quality of the parts used). That's a $600-$650 savings. Well worth my effort. Took me about 4.5 hours to replace the upper and lower BJ's on a RWD, about 6.5 hours on a 4WD/AWD.

 

[98 MERC]

Thanks for your oppinions guys ! It helps to have older people's look at a situation.I am only 30 but if i need help with something hard i consult the older crowd LOL.They seem to know more then my generation.

 

[lobo411]

Don't be afraid to cut and run when/if it no longer makes sense to repair. A 20 year old vehicle is a money pit if you have to pay someone to keep it running.

These old cars are relatively easy to fix, but you need to have the time and space and patience to work on them because at their age, they're falling apart.

 

[Mbrooks420]

It depends on the car if they are 'falling apart'. Usually it's due to lack of upkeep. My 98 is plenty reliable, and I'd drive it to California without a concern. It's never left me stranded. My other 98 had a surprising amount of stock parts, including some front suspension, and it was worked hard all the time. Wheeling, plowing, stoplight racing, and hauling loads to the limit. I had it 10 years and it left me stranded twice. Not too shabby.

I'd guess the pump is your issue. If you had a rack seal out, I think they will typically leak fluid from the bellows. If you take it to the dealer, don't be afraid of telling them no on repairs you aren't sure of. Get a second opinion at your non dealer mechanic if needed.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, these guys all know how this works. These trucks are super reliable as long as they aren't completely ignored(neglected). If you keep up with normal maintenance and replace parts when they get to be very old, then typically you will never be stranded. A suspension should be rebuilt before it gets to be 20 years old, or have 200k on it. If you find original parts approaching those milestones, the past owner didn't take care of it very well.

I'd bet on the PS pump also, they aren't as robust as past models, and they are more expensive. I'd replace it at this age at the first sign of a symptom. The rack is hell to get out, and if good fluid is used, should last longer than the pump. Replace the fluid every few years, and add the Lubegard additive to it.