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Lots of power, little bass??

Silverblade

Explorer Addict
Joined
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City, State
BC, Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 SOHC
Right now I have a 1200.1 JBL amp wired up with 4 guage and a circuit breaker into 2 10" JBL GT series subs that are only a year old. I just got the amp to replace my old one and I figured it was going to blow them out of the box. My friend is running a 700.1 into the same subs as mine but both are 12" instead of my 10s and he had to turn the power down on the amp so he didnt blow his subs(extra cab s10), mine is 3/4s and it doesnt hit much harder than my old amp which was only 350 rms. Any suggestions?

A few people suggested a bigger box but then another friend of mine just got 1 10" JBL in a rediculously small wedge box and it hits harder than my 2 10s with like 250 rms power...it just doesnt add up.

Im thinking about stepping up to 2 12s, if I do what are some good suggestions? I am looking at the type Rs on ebay right now(1222 or 1242??), any other suggestions? JL maybe? It would be nice to get some cheap ones that hit.
 



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First off, JBL rates their amps at the lowest resistance they can, So it is putting out approximately 1200 watts at .5 or 1 ohm, (its been a while since i played around with JBL products) so if you might try rewiring your subs to drop the resistance. As for the question about new subs, if you just wanna be really loud, JL isnt gonna be for you, they are a Sound Quality line, that just so happens to get f'in loud. U might try Kicker, they are "LIVIN LOUD" but i would only run the Solo line from kicker.
 






It's the airspace difference probably. Explorers have a huge amount of airspace over pickups and little cars, so the bass tends to not be as aggressive as it would in a smaller confines. For a while I was using my buddy's 2 10" Punch Stage 1s that he had in his Integra. They hit very very hard in his Integra, but in my truck with a more powerful amp, they felt like they were barely there. Your best bet to get more thump is going to be get a ported or bandpass enclosure, you'll feel it a lot more due to the air coming out of the box.

That being said my new 12" Alpine Type-R in a bandpass box it barely fits in hits very hard even while underpowered.
 






First off, it's impedence, not resistance. And there isn't a way to re-wire your subs to be lower impedence. Maybe if you have your subs wired in series, and if you do, you should reconsider even putting subs in at all.

-Andy
Audio Engineer
 






i have the same amp as u, with 2 P1220D II and it pounds f*ing hard better than anything on its price range, ppl often ask me if i have 15's or 18's
 






Are the subs in an enclosure that will allow you to move them around? I suspect the culprit is phase cancellation at your seating position. If possible, move the subs around, preferably toward the rear corner of the vehicle and see if that makes a difference. If it does, you can continue experimenting with position.
 






are you sure the leads are connected right? ++ -- because if they are not they would cancel each other out and wont "bass" it happened to me when i first installed them, to test em unplug one of the speakers and flip the cable +to - and - to + that might do the trick!
 






if i could see it...i could fix it...i have had one of the better systems in my area for a while...and it was two JL 12 w6 with 1200watts bridged goin to them...i ran into similar problems as you and just had to double check my work and make sure that the switches on the amp were correct...i think the last time i put in some subs and had that prob i had to switch my amp to play the lows...and then it started rockin...and your friend is doin a lil overkill in that lil s10...he's gonna be deaf before he hits 30...
 






I would first check one spaker at a time to start with if you get good sound out of it then it could be a polarity issue making one of the speakers sound out of phase,
if this is the case i would check the connections inside the box and make sure that the polarity is right.
How many coils do each speaker have?
 






I just checked JBL's website and the speakers can be wired in 2 different ways giving you either 3 ohms or 12 ohms PER speaker. Make sure EACH speaker its wired to an impedance of 3 ohms if you do this you would have a total impedance of 1.5 ohms once you plug both speakers to the amp.
Wired correctly the 1200.1 amp can blow those speakers with no problem.
 






indecloudzUA said:
if i could see it...i could fix it...i have had one of the better systems in my area for a while...and it was two JL 12 w6 with 1200watts bridged goin to them...i ran into similar problems as you and just had to double check my work and make sure that the switches on the amp were correct...i think the last time i put in some subs and had that prob i had to switch my amp to play the lows...and then it started rockin...and your friend is doin a lil overkill in that lil s10...he's gonna be deaf before he hits 30...

liar
 






TTG said:
It's the airspace difference probably. Explorers have a huge amount of airspace over pickups and little cars, so the bass tends to not be as aggressive as it would in a smaller confines.

I thknk it's more frequency-dependant. Trucks have a much smaller cabin, resulting in a higher resonance frequency. This means that the truck is gonna peak much higher than an SUV. In my Ranger it's set up for loooow bass (I still wanna go lower) with an amp about the output of the JBL mentioned above. It really slams, I hear the looooow notes, but the loooow notes just are not as pronounced as in my gf's car.

My gf's car is a Taurus with fold-down seats. The box is tuned higher (it's a leftover box from my Ranger), and it has a much smaller amp than the Ranger. It might not hit as hard, but due to the much lower vehicle resonance frequency, the looooow notes are acccentuated much more than in my Ranger. I really feel my innards shaking.

TTG said:
Your best bet to get more thump is going to be get a ported or bandpass enclosure, you'll feel it a lot more due to the air coming out of the box.

You kinda got it right. Ported boxes just tend to be more efficient than sealed boxes. Sealed boxes simply allow the output of the front wave of the cone to be introduced into the vehicle cabin. The rear wave kinda pressurizes/depressurizes the enclosure, resulting in the "acoustic suspension" that controls the cone.

Ported boxes allow some of the energy resonating from the rear wave of the cone to work in harmony with the energy resonating from the front wave fo the cone. If you did not have a box the bass would get cancelled out. The rear and front wave must not come into contact with each other. The ported box is tuned to a specific frequency. The port is not a hole in the box, but a mass of air contained within the port that resonates at the given frequency. As the output of the sub nears the tuning frequency (Fb), the air in the port starts to resonate more and more. Put a plastic bag in front of the port on any enclosure while the sub is playing. The air does not just move out. It resonates back and forth, as long as the frequencies closest to the Fb are being played by the sub.

The port length allows for the rear wave to be out of phase 180 degrees. This means that the front wave and the rear wave that comes out of the port are now in phase with each other. They will not cancel each other out (or at least not nearly as much as a freeair subwoofer). The port can be considered a freebie subwoofer in the enclosure. You need to be careful with port size. Smaller ports result in shorter ports, but you can get a whistling or popping sound at high outputs near the Fb. Larger ports result in much longer ports (making box designing more complicated), but the larger the port area the more output that can come from the port. However TOO LARGE of a port can be bad.

The kind of bandpass most people know about is the 4th order enclosure. This is where the sub is in a sealed box. The front wave plays into a ported chamber. Depending on how it's designed the enclosure can have a wide bandwith (or frequency response), or it can be super-peaky at a small bandwith and sound like a one-note fart-monster. The latter is becoming popular in SPL competitions.

For more information on box types, check out this very informative website:

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/

TTG said:
That being said my new 12" Alpine Type-R in a bandpass box it barely fits in hits very hard even while underpowered.

The 2005 Alpine Type R subs are really good drivers. My buddy kinda discovered them. I mean who would think a "Type-R" sub would be any good. He was testing subs and came across one. For the low price the thing got really loud and handled an arse-load more power than the 500 watt rating Alpine gave it. These bad boys excel in ported boxes. With ported boxes you can tune them to meet your needs. It sounds like you want a higher-tuned box to sound more like your buddy's pickup truck.

Box tuning goes like this. You usually get an even amount of output with varying tuning frequencies, provided the box size itself is the same. A lower tuned box would result in the output being spread across a much wider bandwidth. Lower frequencies would be much more accentuated. However, in a higher tuned box, the output is much more concentrated at the tuning frequencies. It sounds a lot louder to the ear. One benefit of a higher tuned box is you can give it a wide port area, and then later you can add a port plug to reduce the port area, giving you a lower tune. Once you tune lower it's muuuuch harder to re-tune it higher.

Honestly a single Type R would handle that amp, provided you know what you are doing with it. Otherwise you could just pick up a pair of subs, and it will still match well with that amp. If you needed enclosure design help let me know and I will see what I could do. To begin with I would need EXACT MEASUREMENTS. First of all give me the (1) maxiumum WxDxH that you can use. Second I would need the (2) maximum WxDxH that you would like to use up to, meaning what restrictions in WxDxH you would like to place on the box.

Tempe
 






Someone might wanna buy this to understand my long post:

TempesPost.jpg


:cool:
 






i burned a type R with my 1200.1 JBL amp. type R's are not all that great i would install atleast 2 of them so they are not overpowered.
 
























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