loud noise when unlock/lock and rear hatch won't lock

[Henry22]

When I turn on my car and it auto locks i can hear a loud noise inside for a split second, also every time i lock/unlock my car my other problem is my rear hatch won't lock am I just gonna have to get the lock completely replaced?

 

[Electrohacker]

it sounds like the linkage that connects the power lock actuator to the lock it self has come loose... or at least its a fair guess

 

[Henry22]

it sounds like the linkage that connects the power lock actuator to the lock it self has come loose... or at least its a fair guess

is this for the issue of my rear hatch no locking??

and the noise when I love/unlock is coming from my rear hatch also.

 

[yellow coupe]

I had the exact same problem that I just fixed a couple of weeks ago. I would say that the lock actuator on your rear hatch has the teeth stripped inside it. You will have to put in a new door lock actuator.

 

[jrowe6]

i have this problem as well, actuator is toast. 2 of my doors also have this problem

 

[Flick75]

My rear power actuator is toast as well. I pulled the trim and managed to disconnect the electrical cable and pull it out of it's holder, but it doesn't seem to have enough room to rotate the hook off of the lock mechanism. Does anybody have any experience with this as far the power actuator removal? Do you have to loosen up the lock mechanism to rotate the hook out of it?

Any help with this would be much appreciated.

 

[Gixxer1000]

I had to bent the metal rod a bit to get the door lock actuator in and out

Hi,

I just replaced my driver rear door lock actuator. It had a broken shaft. (It was making noise on opening and closing but the lock wasn't opening and closing) I had the same problem with not being able to get the door lock actuator out at the door lock mechanism. There seemed to be not enough room to get the straight part of the rod out. What I did was disconnect the actuator from the clip mount using a screwdriver which gave me more room to manuoever. I ended up bending the soft metal rod then using a screwdriver to pry it off the yellow grommet on the door lock mechanism. The yellow grommet should stay in the door lock mechanism.

I went to the auto wreckers (with the broken actuator in hand for comparison) and took the door lock actuator I needed from a donor explorer. It cost only $25 and my labour to take it out. Be careful when you take out a working door lock actuator as the plastic shaft just below the metal rod is easily broken and you don't want to tear the rubber hood to ratsh*t. If you broke the yellow door lock grommet you could get that too.

On install I bent the soft metal rod to get it back into the door lock mechanism and then straightened it up once I clipped in actuator. Hooked it up and checked operation - all was well!

Good luck.

 

[Flick75]

Well, I ended buying a new actuator from Tousley ford. It was about $60 with shipping, but well worth the extra money.

The actuator was actually much sturdier and had a slightly different build than my original. The best thing was that the hook that goes into the lock was able to be detached from the actuator, which made installation much easier.

The metal shaft is no longer made of soft metal, but strong stainless steel. Very hard to bend. I still had to slightly bend the shaft at the very end with pliers to get the hook in the lock and then snapped the rod back into place on the actuator. I left the end slightly bent so it would be easy to get out for somebody else should it need to be replaced in the future. It's not going anywhere even with that bend. It worked like a champ when I tested it. I'm pretty sure it's a current model actuator used in current models.

I may replace both front door actuators if I find out they're the same design as the rear actuator.