Lover control arm bolt stuck halfway out and not moving. Nut and washer is missing. Can’t get it out or alight the wholes | Ford Explorer Forums

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Lover control arm bolt stuck halfway out and not moving. Nut and washer is missing. Can’t get it out or alight the wholes

Maxmax19773

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 6, 2020
Messages
144
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27
Location
Galleria
City, State
Houston tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 explorer sport 4.0
Hi guys , need your wisdom) my Lowe control arm bolt is half way out and nut and this fancy washer is missing. Bold stock and not moving in any direction. I believe this is the part where CA attached to the frame or its most likely subframe. I attached pictures. I was trying to jack it to take bolt out with no success. Do I have to release the torsion bar? Is there any procedure that align these holes and take bolt in or out? Plan is ( if treads are still there then find the nut and put everything back together. And what about washer or whatever it is missing?? What to do about that? Just put regular washer and search for used one ? To attach pictures of the driver side with misaligned holes and bolt halfway outb. And another picture is the right side for reference on the washer or whatever it is called. Thanks god I was removing radiator to replace the wire harness on crank sensor and discovered it . Thank everyone in advance. Max

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Youll need to get a floor jack under that arm, And loosen the torsion bar like @wollimann says. Make sure to count the turns as you unbolt it to approximate your ride height and preload. I just wrote mine with paint marker on the frame.

after you loosen the bolt for the torsion bar adjustment, you can lower the control arm with the jack and swing it down, it will alieve the spring tension and allow you to remove the torsion bar.
 






First remove the cover plate
coverplate.jpg



Be careful, lot of preload! You can use a two arm puller but you have to secure it
so it can't be slip off!
Torsionbarisolator.jpg
 






Awesome. Thank you! I was removing them few years back, my 2 jaw puller didn’t work on them well, do you know the part number of tool you posted before? Thank you for stepping in. I already purchased the washer from eBay.
 






Awesome. Thank you! I was removing them few years back, my 2 jaw puller didn’t work on them well, do you know the part number of tool you posted before? Thank you for stepping in. I already purchased the washer from eBay.
If you support the control arm with a hydraulic jack, loosen the adjustment screw on the torsion bar all the way out, remove the lower balljoint, and slowly let down the jack. (as long as the vehicle is on jack stands and high enough) you can relieve all tension on the torsion bar without the tool.

Just remember when re-installing that you will have to use the jack to put the control arm back into place. once in place, you can re-install the lower balljoint and tension the torsion bar to spec. If you are not comfortable with any of these steps, please purchase the tool. you are dealing with a loaded spring, and metal is un-forgiving.

Here is the tool wollimann was talking about

and while your in there, you can replace these:

These are the rubber pads that crumble behind the torsion bar and isolate vibrations
 


















What you bought is not a OTC tool,
the seller didn't read the sticker, only this part will be used in conjunction with...
7822A.jpg


The real OTC 7822A is a GM tool

sorry for that
 






If you support the control arm with a hydraulic jack, loosen the adjustment screw on the torsion bar all the way out, remove the lower balljoint, and slowly let down the jack. (as long as the vehicle is on jack stands and high enough) you can relieve all tension on the torsion bar without the tool.

Just remember when re-installing that you will have to use the jack to put the control arm back into place. once in place, you can re-install the lower balljoint and tension the torsion bar to spec. If you are not comfortable with any of these steps, please purchase the tool. you are dealing with a loaded spring, and metal is un-forgiving.

Here is the tool wollimann was talking about

and while your in there, you can replace these:

These are the rubber pads that crumble behind the torsion bar and isolate vibrations
If you support the control arm with a hydraulic jack, loosen the adjustment screw on the torsion bar all the way out, remove the lower balljoint, and slowly let down the jack. (as long as the vehicle is on jack stands and high enough) you can relieve all tension on the torsion bar without the tool.

Just remember when re-installing that you will have to use the jack to put the control arm back into place. once in place, you can re-install the lower balljoint and tension the torsion bar to spec. If you are not comfortable with any of these steps, please purchase the tool. you are dealing with a loaded spring, and metal is un-forgiving.

Here is the tool wollimann was talking about

and while your in there, you can replace these:

These are the rubber pads that crumble behind the torsion bar and isolate vibrations
Hi . I replaced all front end few years ago and did whole job with 2 jacks because my 2 jaws puller didn’t work on that application) I promised myself that if I got to do it again I will do it with the puller. I did not replace this rubber pads ( didn’t have time to order them) . Puller I got should work, it’s 5.5 inches wide. My old pads were green in color) but not completely rotten but I will be happy to replace them ( or at least one for now)
 






If you support the control arm with a hydraulic jack, loosen the adjustment screw on the torsion bar all the way out, remove the lower balljoint, and slowly let down the jack. (as long as the vehicle is on jack stands and high enough) you can relieve all tension on the torsion bar without the tool.

Just remember when re-installing that you will have to use the jack to put the control arm back into place. once in place, you can re-install the lower balljoint and tension the torsion bar to spec. If you are not comfortable with any of these steps, please purchase the tool. you are dealing with a loaded spring, and metal is un-forgiving.

Here is the tool wollimann was talking about

and while your in there, you can replace these:

These are the rubber pads that crumble behind the torsion bar and isolate vibrations
 






Yep . Seller messed up wi Description of the item . But I think it should work. Thanks again everyone. I ordered everything today. Hope got parts quickly and will be able to install everything and get back on the road. Did not plan for doing this job but grateful that I discovered that problem before something Happen while I am driving. Respectfully. Max
 






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