M5OD Rebuild vs. Replace

[97Sandbox]

Hi all,

The M5OD in my '00 Sport currently works okay, but it's frequently hard to get into third gear and there's a noticeable grinding/chattering sound with the clutch engaged and the trans in neutral (I understand this symptom is characteristic of a worn input shaft bearing). Since the truck has nearly 260k on the clock, I figure it'll be good to get ready to sort out the transmission soon.

If I rebuild it myself, I know I'll need a press (I've needed on for a while anyways) and I believe the following items:

• Rebuild kit (bearings, synchros, seals, etc.)
• New cluster shaft nut
• New main shaft nut
• I figure it'd be good to get a shim kit too -- can someone confirm?
• And I'm not sure if there'd be any reason to get the input and cluster shafts

That all adds up to roughly $410 in parts.

I've found this thread to be very informative, but I'm also wondering if this is a one-day type of job, a one-weekend type of job, or one that needs to be continued over a few weekends? While I'm fairly mechanically competent, I don't have the time to work on my Ex like I used to (a house and family will have that effect!).

For under $1000 (after core return), I'm wondering if picking up a reman transmission might be a solid option for a quicker turnaround. Anyone know about the Zumbrota units sold on RockAuto?

I plan to go ahead and replace the clutch and hydraulics while the trans is out. LUK brand parts seem to be the favorite there, but I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks for any input!

 

[Brian1]

I just rebuilt mine earlier this year. If you have everything on hand and it goes smoothly it is a weekend project including pulling and reinstalling the trans. A transmission jack is really handy for that, maybe find a used one on marketplace or Craigslist then resell it when you are done. Figure close to a full day tearing down the trans and rebuilding.

You shouldn't need the cluster shaft unless yours is damaged. Do buy the input shaft, they are cheap and can get galled up if the pocket bearings go bad. Make sure you get a new oil slinger for the input shaft, with that many miles on your trans the old one gets brittle since it is some sort of plastic. Sometimes they come with the input shaft, you may have to call the supplier to find out if you need to buy one separate. Also, buy the shifter top rebuild kit since it looks like that is not included in the main rebuild kit. Yes, it is a good idea to buy the shim kit. I had to buy one while my transmission was torn apart, I wish I had ordered it ahead of time.

A dull chisel helps to remove the inner bearing races that are pressed on the shafts. A dial caliper will let you know which shim combination to use. A press is definitely nice to have along with a bearing splitter. 2 big prybars work to remove the first bearing. And of course a torque wrench for reassembly.

There are some good Youtube videos out there on tear down and rebuild but I also found some terrible ones with bad advise or improper techniques. "Jester Custom Fabrication" has a good series and I found "Kimhou Chhith" videos were a good supplement to that.

As far as the clutch goes, Luk is good and I would recommend Motorcraft for the hydraulics.

If you have the mechanical ability I would say the trans is worth rebuilding yourself, it really isn't that hard to do.

 

[Josh P]

I'd say rebuild it yourself. Harbor freight sells a nice transmission jack that is reasonably priced.

 

[97Sandbox]

Thanks for the advice!

It looks like there's a new plastic oil slinger in the kit I linked above. Good to know about the input shaft, RockAuto has it by itself for less than a third of the price for the shaft pair I linked before. Thanks for confirming on the shim kit too -- that was my suspicion I might need it but wouldn't know till it was too late!

I've got prybars, torque wrenches, and a good jack -- I may mock up a 2x4 jig to turn the floor jack into a pseudo transmission jack.

I watched Kimhou Chhith's videos recently, he makes the rebuild look very straightforward (lol at the kid clamping his glove in a vise in the background).

I installed new bushings, wave washers, and dust boot last fall, so I'm planning on not redoing that work unless I see the blue bushings have crumbled already.



When replacing the clutch (flywheel and friction disc), do you recommend replacing all of the following?

• Pilot bearing (need a special puller?)
• Release bearing
• Master cylinder
• Slave cylinder

 

[Brian1]

When replacing the clutch (flywheel and friction disc), do you recommend replacing all of the following?

• Pilot bearing (need a special puller?)
• Release bearing
• Master cylinder
• Slave cylinder

Yes, replace all of that. Sometimes the new flywheels come with a pilot bearing already installed. You don't need a special tool since the bearing is installed in the flywheel and not the crank, at least on the OHV, not sure on the SOHC. You can get by with not replacing the master cylinder if it is still working properly.

 

[97Sandbox]

You can get by with not replacing the master cylinder if it is still working properly.

I don't currently have any clutch issues whatsoever, but given the lack of maintenance history and easy access with the trans out, I figure it's a good time to replace.

The master cylinder is totally external and has a quick disconnect line, right? If it's easy enough to replace later on (e.g. not internal to the trans like the slave cylinder), then I probably will skip for now.

 

[Brian1]

That is correct

 

[97Sandbox]

given the lack of maintenance history and easy access with the trans out, I figure it's a good time to replace.

Speaking of, is there a preferred brand for the rear crankshaft seal? I seem to remember reading that this was something where Motorcraft was a necessity, but I can't recall if that was specific to the SOHC or if it applied to the OHV 4.0s too. Definitely going to replace that (I think I have a seal left from the Mahle kit I used when refreshing my engine).

 

[Fix4Dirt]

not sure if this has been mentioned, but do you plan to uograde to the sohc clutch and flywheel? (i think they had a stronger kne? i forgot) imo the best rebuild/reman is one you do with your own 2 hands.

 

[97Sandbox]

not sure if this has been mentioned, but do you plan to uograde to the sohc clutch and flywheel? (i think they had a stronger kne? i forgot) imo the best rebuild/reman is one you do with your own 2 hands.

I have heard that before, but honestly forgot about. What all is involved in that upgrade? Just install same as the OHV clutch?

Also, does anyone have a part number for the SOHC LUK clutch kit? It's not on RockAuto or Amazon, and I'm always a bit hesitant to order from ebay unless I'm sure a part number is correct.

 

[Brian1]

Speaking of, is there a preferred brand for the rear crankshaft seal? I seem to remember reading that this was something where Motorcraft was a necessity, but I can't recall if that was specific to the SOHC or if it applied to the OHV 4.0s too. Definitely going to replace that (I think I have a seal left from the Mahle kit I used when refreshing my engine).

I highly recommend the Motorcraft seal but at the very least get one with the metal flange. I posted about it here: How To: 4.0 OHV Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement The Right Way

 

[97Sandbox]

I highly recommend the Motorcraft seal but at the very least get one with the metal flange. I posted about it here: How To: 4.0 OHV Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement The Right Way

Thanks for the info! Looks like there's a $36 knock off installer tool available on amazon -- I may take my chances with that.

 

[410Fortune]

2000 sport with ohv 4.0
To use sohc clutch simply order a sohc flywheel and luk clutch

Your 2000 ohv already has a 8 bolt crankshaft so the sohc flywheel will bolt right on

The sohc clutch is larger and gives way more grip way better pedal feel

I usually
Lookup 2004 ranger sohc and order the flywheel and clutch for that
I do this everytime I replace a ohv clutch, very very good upgrade

 

[Brian1]

Thanks for the info! Looks like there's a $36 knock off installer tool available on amazon -- I may take my chances with that.

Not only is that a knock-off tool they knocked off one of my photos and my instructions word for word in their description! But yes that is a good price. Looks like I will be submitting an infringement claim to Amazon.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Not only is that a knock-off tool they knocked off one of my photos and my instructions word for word in their description! But yes that is a good price. Looks like I will be submitting an infringement claim to Amazon.

dang!!! sorry tohear that

 

[97Sandbox]

I usually
Lookup 2004 ranger sohc and order the flywheel and clutch for that
I do this everytime I replace a ohv clutch, very very good upgrade

Thanks for the tip! For some reason the clutch kit didn't come up for a 2001 Explorer Sport (my usual search for front brake upgrade parts), but it does for a 2004 Ranger so I'll be ordering that.

Not only is that a knock-off tool they knocked off one of my photos and my instructions word for word in their description! But yes that is a good price. Looks like I will be submitting an infringement claim to Amazon.

I hadn't even noticed that -- good catch! Hope they don't get flagged before I order a cheap tool though

Thanks for all of your help everybody! I'll post a list of all the part numbers once I order and some photos when I start the rebuild (may be a couple months).

 

[sport trac jr.]

I don't currently have any clutch issues whatsoever, but given the lack of maintenance history and easy access with the trans out, I figure it's a good time to replace.

The master cylinder is totally external and has a quick disconnect line, right? If it's easy enough to replace later on (e.g. not internal to the trans like the slave cylinder), then I probably will skip for now.

Why do all that and get trapped on the road with a master cylinder out.....I have the 5 speed and the master cylinder is fine its at 195K Im
pulling it just to be safe at that mileage....not to get trapped on the
road......steaming I did not do it......put Mer 5 in ......in the M5OD, 2001
Sport Trac.............it shifts better now at a 195K.........

 

[Oldtinknocker]

Hi all,

The M5OD in my '00 Sport currently works okay, but it's frequently hard to get into third gear and there's a noticeable grinding/chattering sound with the clutch engaged and the trans in neutral (I understand this symptom is characteristic of a worn input shaft bearing). Since the truck has nearly 260k on the clock, I figure it'll be good to get ready to sort out the transmission soon.

If I rebuild it myself, I know I'll need a press (I've needed on for a while anyways) and I believe the following items:

• Rebuild kit (bearings, synchros, seals, etc.)
• New cluster shaft nut
• New main shaft nut
• I figure it'd be good to get a shim kit too -- can someone confirm?
• And I'm not sure if there'd be any reason to get the input and cluster shafts

That all adds up to roughly $410 in parts.

I've found this thread to be very informative, but I'm also wondering if this is a one-day type of job, a one-weekend type of job, or one that needs to be continued over a few weekends? While I'm fairly mechanically competent, I don't have the time to work on my Ex like I used to (a house and family will have that effect!).

For under $1000 (after core return), I'm wondering if picking up a reman transmission might be a solid option for a quicker turnaround. Anyone know about the Zumbrota units sold on RockAuto?

I plan to go ahead and replace the clutch and hydraulics while the trans is out. LUK brand parts seem to be the favorite there, but I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks for any input!

I just did mine, symptoms started at 150k, dealer useless, at 250k aggravated enough to tackle it, short version, it was the bearing retaining plate in front of 5th gear, the bearing had spun, burned into the plate, created too much clearance, use loctite bearing retaining product, new steel plate instead of the aluminum one, now at 300k, works like new, parts guy at dealer cool, service people worthless.

 

[97Sandbox]

As promised, here are the items I purchased for the trans rebuild and clutch replacement:

• RockAuto:
  • LSC003B Clutch Slave Cylinder
  • ZMM5R1167 Input Shaft Nut
  • ZMM5R116A Input Shaft
  • ZMM5R1149 Main / Output Shaft Nut
  • 07167 Clutch Kit
  • LFW382 Flywheel
  • W83150 Clutch Line Disconnect Tool
• Transmission Parts Distributors:
  • 306204K Shim Kit
  • BK247AWSK Rebuild Kit
• Silver State Ford:
  • F5TZ-6701-A Rear Main Seal
• Amazon:
  • 7834 Rear Crankshaft Seal Installer Tool

Total was just under $700 for parts and $50 for tools. Now we'll see how the actual rebuild goes!

 

[97Sandbox]

Why do all that and get trapped on the road with a master cylinder out

I guess because it's not my daily and it seems easy enough to swap out later if I have to. We'll see if I come to regret it!

put Mer 5 in ......in the M5OD, 2001
Sport Trac.............it shifts better now at a 195K.........

I've read that Mercon V is not good for the M5OD trans, you mean regular Mercon, right?