Manual shifted T-case | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Manual shifted T-case

Joined
February 27, 2005
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
City, State
WV
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 2Dr. Sport
Hey all, just spent the day trail hoppin' mostly just tryin' the T-case mod I installed on Friday. It's so nice to shift into 4 high & low manually as well as shifting the t-case into neutral which was kinda imposable before! And the best thing was it only cost me $15, yeah only fifteen bucks! I had the Borg Warner 4406 stock I think it was. Anyway I trashed it one day being stupid LOL. So I found a Borg Warner 1354 in a ‘96 Ranger and swapped it in with the Ranger front drive shaft..Now that cost me $350. But it only had 28k miles on it. But after the install it would never shift into 4 high only 4 low!!? So I put on my Hillbilly engineer hat & started thinkin’ & what I came up with was this. The front axel disconnect was a BIG problem. So I removed it and slid the shift fork over. So that the front axel would always be connected & held the fork there with a couple good welds! & just simply reinstalled it. The next Problem the T-case shift motor. So I just removed the guts of the motor as well as the back “plastic” cover & found a steel gear that done all the shiftin’ & in the middle of that gear was a place where a 9/16 socket fit snug over. So again I welded the socket there solid & came off of the socket with a 4” “Craftsman” extension & welded it solid. And then just used two universal joint extensions to get the right angle. And used a 12” extension that would run all the way up through the floor between the seat & consol…If anyone attempts this just be prepared to have a good welder and weld all the joints except the U joints! use some good quality 1/2 tools. All I know is I gotta be the first one to try this, who’s next! LOL. I will provide some pics after the clean up. I’m very happy, it held up very well. This will work on any electric shift t-case. The only thing I don’t like is that the t-case turns all the time now as well as the front drive line. But keep fluids clean & they shoulden't be a problem here. Anyway to shift to high, low or neutral now all I have to do is "turn" the shifter counter clockwise in quarter turns from 2wd, 4-high, neutral, and 4-low :D
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I cut some rubber hose to cover the extensions just to keep it from rattlin'. But after I installed the rubber gromet in the floor, it never rattled!

Here I cut the extension to length & added a shift handle

Here she is in 4 Low! easy as turning a door knob!

(lost photos)
 






Haha, thats pretty creative, I love redneck engineering
 






your a genious, I think I may just have to do that too with my 4406. Did you happen to get any picks of the socket, just so I know what it looks like when I try it.
No problems turning it hey? Thats good when I was turning mine with pliers, it was a lil hard at times.
 






No sorry, it's behind the shift motor. But every thing will fall together once ya start. Yeah it's easy to turn no problem, I guess it's the length of the linkage which helps. Just remember to weld the bottom of the socket to the gear as well as the extension goin in it. Good luck, if ya run into any probs, just let me know. :thumbsup:
 












Kinda doubt it! Anyway, I"m sure this will last longer then the Ex will without the downtime in the shop. Warranty Smarranty!
 












well i got off work early today so I think I am gunna take apart my shift motor and see what I can come up with, if I have enough extensions it just maybe done today. How did you connect the skull? Arn't they thread on?
 






okay so I took it apart. with the help of my trusty zip disc (didnt have the security torx small enough). So on the gear there is definitaly no where that a 9/16 socket will fit. More like a 10mm or 11mm 10.5? I guess It doesnt matter as long and the socket is centered and welded on the gear it would do the trick. Now my dilema (sp?) I fixed my motor. should I trash a good motor or figure out how to wire it into my truck? I will be taking picks of it apart as well so people that are to scared to try will be more willing to try. it is very very easy.. . . so far.

For those of you with a bad shift motor take it apart and see if you can fix it, it is actually much much easier than one would think.
 






Well I for one wouldn’t tell ya to trash a good motor! but I have no idea about wiring so I did. That’s why I went the way I did with it. as for the shift handle it has 2 set screws at the bottom. But to make sure it didn't twist I also used that Gorilla Glue Man, that stuff is awesome!
 






pgdsm said:
okay so I took it apart. with the help of my trusty zip disc (didnt have the security torx small enough). So on the gear there is definitaly no where that a 9/16 socket will fit. More like a 10mm or 11mm 10.5? I guess It doesnt matter as long and the socket is centered and welded on the gear it would do the trick. Now my dilema (sp?) I fixed my motor. should I trash a good motor or figure out how to wire it into my truck? I will be taking picks of it apart as well so people that are to scared to try will be more willing to try. it is very very easy.. . . so far.

For those of you with a bad shift motor take it apart and see if you can fix it, it is actually much much easier than one would think.

David i think its not even worth trying to wire it into your truck. A real off road truck should have a manual case anyways.
 






yeah thanx mahdey, I think. . . actually I know I am going to just make it manual and this is easier and cheaper than swapping in a manual case.

Ran out of time cause I had to take care of some other stuff today, so it is put on hold. I will have full pictures as well when I get it done.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top