Maximum Traction Solution - 4th Gen Differential Tech

[Ronin8002]

Sound's like a plan. Don't you love international shipping?

No chance of a c-clip elimination kit for a dana 30?
Alternatives that I can see if no c-clip thingy's are available because I cant return it due to arb re boxing policy and the mob I went through dont stock eaton:

Sell to someone with a jeep in those year's stated above (Brand new $700 and free shipping) if you know someone pm me.
Try and sell locally?

F*** know's....fool's rush in as they say!

EDIT:I did find one site that list's ARB RD 100 as being compatible with ford explorer 02-10 dana 30 front.(randy's ring and pinion)

I wonder if it would work lynchy. might be worth a try just to see before you go through the trouble?

 

[The Electrician]

This is a fantastic thread! Again, great work, sir!

I will be doing my Aussie locker install in my 2004 next week....should be the same for the 2006+ Explorers. I'll post a link to my writeup in here for that as well.

I wish the best for you and your project.

But don't you think you you need to figure out how to disable 4x4 auto completely and make the Explorer a true part-time four wheel drive vehicle. And need to install a locking hubs for the front end (this is not good to the transfer case, and it will consume the transfer case clutches if 4x4 auto was not disabled)?

Because it is highly warned against installing an Aussie locker in front of a full-time 4 wheel drive vehicle.

And with the way the auto transfer case of the Explorer works, it is considered as a full-time 4 wheel drive vehicle.

 

[Ronin8002]

Should have clarified...I plan on leaving the front differential open and installing the locker in the rear axle. You are right about the front being bad for a full time locker on the 3rd/4th gens...thank you for the tips though.

Also, I looked at my front axle this morning and it appears to be identical externally to the one in your vehicle, to include the mounting points. It seems logical to conclude that they are the same both internally and externally, as they are listed as the same part number by Ford.

 

[The Electrician]

Should have clarified...I plan on leaving the front differential open and installing the locker in the rear axle. You are right about the front being bad for a full time locker on the 3rd/4th gens...thank you for the tips though.

Also, I looked at my front axle this morning and it appears to be identical externally to the one in your vehicle, to include the mounting points. It seems logical to conclude that they are the same both internally and externally, as they are listed as the same part number by Ford.

Then let me congratulate you in advance, and let me suggest a Torsen for the front end

 

[Ronin8002]

Thank you sir. Unfortunately I've already had a 4.10 ring and pinion installed in my front/rear, and my budget won't allow for the purchase/install of a torsen at this time. In the future I may consider this option if I still have issues with traction and my modification budget allows

 

[lynchy wa]

I wonder if it would work lynchy. might be worth a try just to see before you go through the trouble?

Yeah I'll give it a crack. I had done heap's of research into it. But couldn't remember c-clip's, cir clip's and crush collar's (must have been sober! .) After going to a few j*** sites classifieds, in a panicy flap, I decided to go back through it all and found a few places that said this application (ARB RD 100) is for the 2002-2010 explorer dana 30, 27 spline front end. I did have a bit of a freak out moment tho', as my post above alludes to!!!

 

[MikeE101]

Great info! The torsen probably deals with the mud pretty good, right? And just though of something else. Part of the Advance Trac system is to apply the brake on a spinning wheel. So if it does that wouldnt it take away like almost half the power from the spinning wheel and send the other half to the other side? So even with a open diff it would kinda be like a locker???

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Great work!

 

[The Electrician]

Great info! The torsen probably deals with the mud pretty good, right? And just though of something else. Part of the Advance Trac system is to apply the brake on a spinning wheel. So if it does that wouldnt it take away like almost half the power from the spinning wheel and send the other half to the other side? So even with a open diff it would kinda be like a locker???

Yes it is true, brake traction control works great. even with stock open-diff.

But when I do dunes bashing or mudding, where i need momentum most, brake traction control slows me down and let me loose momentum.

With the Torsen's on, I don't have this problem any more

Also brake traction control stops working when brake pads become hot (I get warning in the dashboard), and I need to stop and let them cool down.

Great work!

Thanks

 

[The Electrician]

Thank you sir. Unfortunately I've already had a 4.10 ring and pinion installed in my front/rear, and my budget won't allow for the purchase/install of a torsen at this time. In the future I may consider this option if I still have issues with traction and my modification budget allows

Hay Ronin8002 I would like ask you,

how is your mileage with the 4.10?

and did you dyno your truck?

my dyno with all mods and torque tuning (before KKM and hi flow cat)

91 octane = Max power 182 HP and max torque 239 ft-lbs
and the same tuning
87 octane = Max power 179 HP and max torque 236 ft-lbs


the stock dyno
87 octane = Max power 168 HP and max torque 201 ft-lbs

I'll make another dyno tuning with the KKM and hi-flow cat soon

 

[Ronin8002]

I am in the process of installing my 4.10 regeared differentials so I am not able to comment on the effect on mileage yet.

Right now with my larger tires and stock 3.55 gearing I am averaging 17-18 MPG with mostly highway driving. I have some long hills in my area so getting up to highway speed and maintaining it seems to have the greatest effect on my mileage compared to the smaller stock tires I ran. With the stock tires I would see 19-21 mpg or better under the same driving conditions. It is my hope that I can achieve 20 mpg or better with the new gears installed.

I have not dynoed my truck and really don't have any intention to in the near future; my greater concern is obtaining the best fuel economy I can with the larger tires. I will be doing some mileage testing that will compare different intake configurations. I plan to do it during the month of July once my new gears have been broken in properly.

I would be interested in seeing your dyno results with the KKM. Being that it is exposed to underhood heat (especially in your climate) I suspect it may result in a loss in power due to the air charge being less dense. However, t is my hope that the heated air charge will also have the effect in improving fuel economy (heated air = less dense air = less fuel needed), provided the vehicle's computer does not reduce ignition timing to compensate for the higher intake air temperatures.

My observations so far indicate that at highway speeds, the KKM results in intake air temperatures being up to 10 degrees F above ambient temperature. At slower speeds or driving in traffic, that temperature rises substantially.

My testing that I mentioned will involve driving the same route (around 25 miles per trip) to and from work on highway and surface streets with various intake configurations. I plan to perform 10 trips with each configuration to try and get a rough average so that I can get an idea as to which configuration offers the best fuel economy improvements. I will refill the fuel tank and reset the computer between testing each configuration.

The configurations I will test will be:

-Stock setup and a new stock filter (as a baseline)
-Stock setup with a K&N panel filter
-Stock setup with a K&N panel filter and the headlight intake duct removed
-Stock airbox with a K&N panel filter, headlight duct removed, and replacing the stock intake tube with a smooth metal one of about the same diameter
-KKM with the stock intake tube
-KKM with the smooth metal intake tube

Hopefully this will show some trends that indicate how these modifications might impact fuel economy.

If you have suggestions on this testing I would welcome your input.

Hay Ronin8002 I would like ask you,

how is your mileage with the 4.10?

and did you dyno your truck?

my dyno with all mods and torque tuning (before KKM and hi flow cat)

91 octane = Max power 182 HP and max torque 239 ft-lbs
and the same tuning
87 octane = Max power 179 HP and max torque 236 ft-lbs


the stock dyno
87 octane = Max power 168 HP and max torque 201 ft-lbs

I'll make another dyno tuning with the KKM and hi-flow cat soon

 

[xplorerguru]

"In the front end I used TORSEN T-2 helical LSD #975420-0831A
many thanks to Ranger Rick of Torsen.com for his help"


Do you have a link to this item for purchase i cannot find one online.

Thanks!

 

[Cozmik]

I have been thinking about/suggesting this combo (Torsen and Detroit TruTrac) for almost 2 years. I've just not had the money and time to do it. Its great to see that it works!!!

The thing I'm curious about though, did either the T2 or the DTT require any modifications to be installed? I know that the Aussie lockers require machinining to fit the IRS rear end, the BIG question I always had regarding the T2/DTT combo was direct fitment.

Your truck is coming along great and thanks again for paving the way for the rest of us regarding a front diff solution.

 

[The Electrician]

"In the front end I used TORSEN T-2 helical LSD #975420-0831A
many thanks to Ranger Rick of Torsen.com for his help"


Do you have a link to this item for purchase i cannot find one online.

Thanks!

nop it is not on TORSEN online shop (TORSEN online shop is very crappy)

First you need to register with TORSEN online shop

Then order it by phone, Fax or email (don't forget to provide your customer ID in the order, to make it easer for you to follow up your order on-line later on)

also be noted that #975420-0831A is for 3.73 ratio ring gear and numerically higher

for 3.54 ratio and numerically lower you need to contact TORSEN.com for the suitable part number


Email: info@torsen.com
Telephone: (585) 464-5000
Fax: (585) 328-5477
paypal email: paypal@torsen.com

Or simply you can install Eaton TrureTrac Helical LSD

Eaton Truetrac #912A584 for 3.54 ratio and numerically lower
Eaton Truetrac #912A585 for 3.73 ratio and numerically higher

 

[The Electrician]

I have been thinking about/suggesting this combo (Torsen and Detroit TruTrac) for almost 2 years. I've just not had the money and time to do it. Its great to see that it works!!!

The thing I'm curious about though, did either the T2 or the DTT require any modifications to be installed? I know that the Aussie lockers require machinining to fit the IRS rear end, the BIG question I always had regarding the T2/DTT combo was direct fitment.

Your truck is coming along great and thanks again for paving the way for the rest of us regarding a front diff solution.

You are most welcome Sean

I'm very glad that my work could be useful to others

And as I mentioned before: It is a direct Bolt on and no modifications of any kind is needed

Best regards

 

[xplorerguru]

nop it is not on TORSEN online shop (TORSEN online shop is very crappy)

First you need to register with TORSEN online shop

Then order it by phone, Fax or email (don't forget to provide your customer ID in the order, to make it easer for you to follow up your order on-line later on)

also be noted that #975420-0831A is for 3.73 ratio ring gear and numerically higher

for 3.54 ratio and numerically lower you need to contact TORSEN.com for the suitable part number


Email: info@torsen.com
Telephone: (585) 464-5000
Fax: (585) 328-5477
paypal email: paypal@torsen.com

Or simply you can install Eaton TrureTrac Helical LSD

Eaton Truetrac #912A584 for 3.54 ratio and numerically lower
Eaton Truetrac #912A585 for 3.73 ratio and numerically higher

Thanks A Lot for all your help! Sean and I have been talking about doing this for some time now, just need the funds lol!

 

[Ranger Rick]

I apologize for the Torsen online store. I agree, it's awful, we'll be completely revamping the website before too long. For the time being, I will see to it that the Dana 30 high numeric unit (975420-0831A, as mentioned above) gets added to the store as it is.

Right now, there is no Torsen for the numerically lower gear ratios for the Dana 30. That might change if the demand presents itself, but so far that hasn't happened. We've been concentrating on the higher numeric ratios generally because it seems that most folks upgrading their axles are also going with bigger tires, and shortening their gearing to go with that.

 

[The Electrician]

Thank you Rick for clarifying and thanks again for your help

Best regards

I apologize for the Torsen online store. I agree, it's awful, we'll be completely revamping the website before too long. For the time being, I will see to it that the Dana 30 high numeric unit (975420-0831A, as mentioned above) gets added to the store as it is.

Right now, there is no Torsen for the numerically lower gear ratios for the Dana 30. That might change if the demand presents itself, but so far that hasn't happened. We've been concentrating on the higher numeric ratios generally because it seems that most folks upgrading their axles are also going with bigger tires, and shortening their gearing to go with that.

 

[Ranger Rick]

No problem. Sorry for not posting sooner, I should make a point of checking this forum more often.

 

[The Electrician]

I am in the process of installing my 4.10 regeared differentials so I am not able to comment on the effect on mileage yet.

Right now with my larger tires and stock 3.55 gearing I am averaging 17-18 MPG with mostly highway driving. I have some long hills in my area so getting up to highway speed and maintaining it seems to have the greatest effect on my mileage compared to the smaller stock tires I ran. With the stock tires I would see 19-21 mpg or better under the same driving conditions. It is my hope that I can achieve 20 mpg or better with the new gears installed.

I have not dynoed my truck and really don't have any intention to in the near future; my greater concern is obtaining the best fuel economy I can with the larger tires. I will be doing some mileage testing that will compare different intake configurations. I plan to do it during the month of July once my new gears have been broken in properly.

I would be interested in seeing your dyno results with the KKM. Being that it is exposed to underhood heat (especially in your climate) I suspect it may result in a loss in power due to the air charge being less dense. However, t is my hope that the heated air charge will also have the effect in improving fuel economy (heated air = less dense air = less fuel needed), provided the vehicle's computer does not reduce ignition timing to compensate for the higher intake air temperatures.

My observations so far indicate that at highway speeds, the KKM results in intake air temperatures being up to 10 degrees F above ambient temperature. At slower speeds or driving in traffic, that temperature rises substantially.

My testing that I mentioned will involve driving the same route (around 25 miles per trip) to and from work on highway and surface streets with various intake configurations. I plan to perform 10 trips with each configuration to try and get a rough average so that I can get an idea as to which configuration offers the best fuel economy improvements. I will refill the fuel tank and reset the computer between testing each configuration.

The configurations I will test will be:

-Stock setup and a new stock filter (as a baseline)
-Stock setup with a K&N panel filter
-Stock setup with a K&N panel filter and the headlight intake duct removed
-Stock airbox with a K&N panel filter, headlight duct removed, and replacing the stock intake tube with a smooth metal one of about the same diameter
-KKM with the stock intake tube
-KKM with the smooth metal intake tube

Hopefully this will show some trends that indicate how these modifications might impact fuel economy.

If you have suggestions on this testing I would welcome your input.

Ronin any update regarding mileage?