Model Year 2000 4.0 SOHC will not start.

[Angus88]

How to: - Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

This procedure diagnoses a No Start engine problem. The procedure is based on information from the Ford Service Manual and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed. 1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start? Yes: Verify key...

www.explorerforum.com

1st, I have a Service Manual and use it but maintenance has been nil. It probably has the OE spark plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump. 141,000 miles. 25 years old. It's currently my winter beater.
It cranks over fine. Per a note or text, I last used it on at least Dec 21st 2024, but has been hard to start before then, needing too much cranking over. It has about 3/4 of a tank of gas that I recently added a whole brand new bottle of Red Heet too. No luck. It is stored in a garage that I keep unheated unless I'll be out there a few hours. The Tach seldom works if at all but that is nothing new. I have not tried the spare key but I'll give it a shot today.

I found the above post, but I need help with its steps. I looked at taking off the connector for the crank position sensor but I can't get a hand on it due to the fan, shroud & radiator being in the way. I don't currently have the special tools to remove the fan. A step to remove the radiator is to first remove the fan and shroud, but looking at it makes me wonder if I could get it out with the shroud in place and loose. That seems drastic, so I am looking for any tips on getting the CPS connector loose with the shroud etc in place. I have the special fuel line disconnect tools (metal ones) and spent hours yesterday trying to get the fuel lines off the filter. I did finally get the engine side off. I tried slipping a line wrench over the fitting and using slip joint pliers to squeeze the tool and line wrench together, in hopes of driving the tool into the fitting. No luck yet. I also tried prying the tool into the fitting with an already bent screwdriver or a Cresent wrench and using the filter body as a backing. With one end loose, I tilted it up and sprayed WD40 into the fitting once more and called it a night.

Some other things I have done. Disconnected one spark plug wire and put a used spark plug into it, then cranked the engine and saw spark. I added a whole brand new bottle of Red Heet to 3/4 of a tank of gas. Tried to listen for the fuel pump coming on. I heard a click followed by a whine that lasted a few seconds.

Disconnected and reconnected the MAP sensor and one at a solenoid underneath the snow guard, that might be Idle air control. I took off the air inlet tube and blocked a spring loaded plate open and sprayed a healthy does of starting fluid past the plate. It did not start or even fire.

I found the Schrader valve at the fuel rail and pushed it in after cycling the key and also with the key on. Fuel dribbled out on the first try but none since and no spray at all. Checked fuses for PCM, GEM, Securi-Lock and the fuel pump. I swapped the PCM relay with another that controlled something that worked like starter or power windows.

Unless I'm told here that it's a bad idea, I plan to put the fuel line going into the fuel filter into an empty two gallon gas jug and turn the key on for a few seconds, then see if I collected any gas or have it all over the place. If none, then I'll run the key a little longer. No open flames or smoking for that test. 1st I need to get the fuel filter off though.

Tips to get the CPS connector or fuel filter off would be great, other diagnostic ideas & repair ideas welcome too. I'm planning on replacing some or all of the spark plugs too, but many look like a complete PIA. I have also considered siphoning the gas out and trying a couple gallons of fresh gas. Overall, it could be the fuel pump, but before going there, I want to try the crank position sensor connector.

 

[amj441]

you can get to your crank position sensor from the bottom side. Depending on where your sway bar is mounted in may be difficult.

Getting the fuel filter off, use your fuel line disconnect tool and get the tool to sit all the way at the bottom of the connector as far as it will go, then press the line into the filter firmly, then push a bit with your other hand the disconnect tool and then pull the line. I fought mine for about an hour the first time I did mine.

also I don't think its a terrible idea to dribble fuel into a bucket, just be careful like you said.

Spark plugs are a pia and you should do the coil plugs and wires all in one go. easiest way is through the fender liners. you will bust a few fingers and itll feel like you are making no progress until they suddenly pop off.

good luck o>

 

[Pete Deering]

How to: - Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

This procedure diagnoses a No Start engine problem. The procedure is based on information from the Ford Service Manual and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed. 1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start? Yes: Verify key...

www.explorerforum.com

1st, I have a Service Manual and use it but maintenance has been nil. It probably has the OE spark plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump. 141,000 miles. 25 years old. It's currently my winter beater.
It cranks over fine. Per a note or text, I last used it on at least 12/21, but has been hard to start before then, needing too much cranking over. It has about 3/4 of a tank of gas that I recently added a whole brand new bottle of Red Heet too. No luck. It is stored in a garage that I keep unheated unless I'll be out there a few hours. The Tach seldom works if at all but that is nothing new. I have not tried the spare key but I'll give it a shot today.

I found the above post, but I need help with its steps. I looked at taking off the connector for the crank position sensor but I can't get a hand on it due to the fan, shroud & radiator being in the way. I don't currently have the special tools to remove the fan. A step to remove the radiator is to first remove the fan and shroud, but looking at it makes me wonder if I could get it out with the shroud in place and loose. That seems drastic, so I am looking for any tips on getting the CPS connector loose with the shroud etc in place. I have the special fuel line disconnect tools (metal ones) and spent hours yesterday trying to get the fuel lines off the filter. I did finally get the engine side off. I tried slipping a line wrench over the fitting and using slip joint pliers to squeeze the tool and line wrench together, in hopes of driving the tool into the fitting. No luck yet. I also tried prying the tool into the fitting with an already bent screwdriver or a Cresent wrench and using the filter body as a backing. With one end loose, I tilted it up and sprayed WD40 into the fitting once more and called it a night.

Some other things I have done. Disconnected one spark plug wire and put a used spark plug into it, then cranked the engine and saw spark. I added a whole brand new bottle of Red Heet to 3/4 of a tank of gas. Tried to listen for the fuel pump coming on. I heard a click followed by a whine that lasted a few seconds.

Disconnected and reconnected the MAP sensor and one at a solenoid underneath the snow guard, that might be Idle air control. I took off the air inlet tube and blocked a spring loaded plate open and sprayed a healthy does of starting fluid past the plate. It did not start or even fire.

I found the Schrader valve at the fuel rail and pushed it in after cycling the key and also with the key on. Fuel dribbled out on the first try but none since and no spray at all. Checked fuses for PCM, GEM, Securi-Lock and the fuel pump. I swapped the PCM relay with another that controlled something that worked like starter or power windows.

Unless I'm told here that it's a bad idea, I plan to put the fuel line going into the fuel filter into an empty two gallon gas jug and turn the key on for a few seconds, then see if I collected any gas or have it all over the place. If none, then I'll run the key a little longer. No open flames or smoking for that test. 1st I need to get the fuel filter off though.

Tips to get the CPS connector or fuel filter off would be great, other diagnostic ideas & repair ideas welcome too. I'm planning on replacing some or all of the spark plugs too, but many look like a complete PIA. I have also considered siphoning the gas out and trying a couple gallons of fresh gas. Overall, it could be the fuel pump, but before going there, I want to try the crank position sensor connector.

First you need too check these three things first.
1. Do you have spark? Attach a spark tester too your number one spark plug wire.
2. Check your air filter is it clear? Is it due for replacement?
3. Do you hear the fuel pump cycle , when you turn key to the on position?
4. Check for codes. Do you have a scanner?
5. At 141K, your spark plugs ( copper) are done. When I changed my at 100k, there was very little left. Also your spark plug wires should be replace at the same time.
6. Your fuel filter, is also passed the recommended replacement.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Interesting. So you hear the fuel pump cycle, but no fuel out of the schrader? Sounds like seeing how much pressure is in the line may be helpful. For my own clarity: 12/21- December 2021 or December 21st 2024?

 

[Angus88]

Dec 21st 2024 & I edited my post too. I may have only heard the relay clicking.

I checked for pressure at the schrader valve by depressing it with screwdriver after 3 or more Key on, Key off cycles and with Key on. Seems to me fuel would have sprayed out if it was pressurized.

Somewhere I read that cold weather can cause a fuel pump to suddenly quit working & to test that by tapping the tank to jar it.

So I thumped the side & bottom of the tank closet to the fuel pump with a rubber mallet. Then it started & ran for 5 to 10 seconds. At least once, maybe twice.

Upon post engine run inspection I found the spring lock connector disconnected & a small puddle of gasoline on the floor. Basically I had forgot the connection wasn't solid. I had disconnected it to aid in installing new quick connect fittings for the fuel filter and forgot in the excitement to test thumping that I was not able to get it reconnected solidly. I thing the spring is shot.

I now have a new spring lock connector to put in, but at least know the pump is getting power & ground and didn't have a fire or explosion.

It's cold here & I'm tired of working on it. Thus taking a break & catching up on routine things. I'll have to run nylon tube from the new spring lock down to steel tube somewhere ahead of the fuel filter or all the way to it.

 

[Angus88]

First you need too check these three things first.
1. Do you have spark? Attach a spark tester too your number one spark plug wire.
2. Check your air filter is it clear? Is it due for replacement?
3. Do you hear the fuel pump cycle , when you turn key to the on position?
4. Check for codes. Do you have a scanner?
5. At 141K, your spark plugs ( copper) are done. When I changed my at 100k, there was very little left. Also your spark plug wires should be replace at the same time.
6. Your fuel filter, is also passed the recommended replacement.

I have spark at the driver's side middle cylinder. I have code PO232. The fuel filter & its quick connects have now been replaced. I am going to see if warming up the engine makes loosening the plugs easier to replace. The above one is easiest to get at but in there well.

 

[410Fortune]

You have spark
That rules out the crank sensor

You have no fuel pressure
There’s your problem

You don’t have a map sensor

You need to verify the fuel pump is getting power when you first turn. The key. That rules out the key, fuse, relays and inertia switch. It is simple to test.

When you cycle the key 2-3 times and then press the schrader valve fuel should be shooting out at 64 psi (a lot)
You said it dribbled and then nothing

There is the problem, no fuel pressure


You can put power from a battery directly to the fuel pump before you drop the tank to replace it, the fuel tank connector is on the frame rail just above drivers rear tire

Plan to replace fuel pump (Bosch) strainer and filter
You can drop the tank or cut an access hole in the floor

 

[Angus88]

You have spark
That rules out the crank sensor

You have no fuel pressure
There’s your problem

You don’t have a map sensor

You need to verify the fuel pump is getting power when you first turn. The key. That rules out the key, fuse, relays and inertia switch. It is simple to test.

When you cycle the key 2-3 times and then press the schrader valve fuel should be shooting out at 64 psi (a lot)
You said it dribbled and then nothing

There is the problem, no fuel pressure


You can put power from a battery directly to the fuel pump before you drop the tank to replace it, the fuel tank connector is on the frame rail just above drivers rear tire

Plan to replace fuel pump (Bosch) strainer and filter
You can drop the tank or cut an access hole in the floor

410, did you see my most recent post, #5 here. It started briefly, wouldn't that rule out no power to the pump?

 

[410Fortune]

So if the truck started and ran twice for 5-10 seconds then that gives you a chance to check pressure at the rail
This will tell you if the pump is strong enough to drive or the cause of your further issues







If you hear the pump run then yes obviously it is getting power

What I read is that you might have just heard the relay click?

Regardless …
Dropping the tank and installing a new pump is a decent sized job. So I have learned over the years that two simple tests can tell
Me if the tank needs to come out or not

First I test see if power is coming from the truck side (listening to a pump run is same thing, if I can hear it run then I know it’s getting powered

Next I send battery power to the pump itself
By doing this I can confirm if the pump is weak or strong. I use a jumper
Box and simply plug the pump in. I even have a connector for this because I often will pump all the fuel from a truck before I send it to the crusher

With battery power to the pump itself can listen to it. I know what it should sound like and I know what a weak one sounds like
I can also check pressure at the rail

There have been two times where doing this simple test has saved
Me from dropping the tank. Instead I found faulty wires outside the tank… the plug /‘connector itself had pins that were not fully seated. Simply fixing that had the pump running and full pressure

 

[410Fortune]

2000 will have 64 psi at the fuel rail +/-

 

[donalds]

I had a fuel filter clog up on my 99

 

[410Fortune]

If you have a pump that comes on
And it sounds normal
And not enough pressure at the rail
Then change filter and test again before dropping tank

A plugged fuel filter is usually pretty obvious, the gas that comes out once you unhook it will be dark in color

 

[amj441]

how much gas do you have in the tank?

Since you just did the filter undo the connector from the tank side of the filter and let the filter drain back and note the color. Did you ever try draining fuel into a bucket while letting the pump run?

if the filter fuel seems clean, there is a chance that the pickup screen has deteriorated and may be blocking the pickup tube. when you knocked it with a hammer it could have shifted loose. if the tank is low on fuel you are more likely to pick up the screen fragments.

 

[Angus88]

The tank is about 1/3 full or a little more. I did try collecting some but the old filter was connected to the tank side then. I can disconnect either side now.(whichever is easier to collect) and see what I can collect in a jug.

410, My thoughts exactly. Filter 1st. I can perhaps test for pump run, per above, but I haven't been working on it and still need to get the new Spring Lock in place before an engine start test.

 

[Angus88]

And so, tonight I spent a few hours trying to get the new dorman spring lock connector (SLC) to engage & lock onto Ford's female end. No luck. I used 10W40 for lube and got the O-rings & more in, but no luck locking. First I tried just pushing them together, then a 1/2" spring lock tool and also tried a 3/8". Previously it came apart with the 1/2. I tried pulling the tool while pushing the SLC, but it's difficult with brake lines & more in the way. (Thanks Ford) I also kinked the new nylon tube that I had connected to the SLC. May say Ford it, and use fuel hose instead. Time for another break from it.