Moderate Lift, Maximum Tires, & Minimum Cost | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Moderate Lift, Maximum Tires, & Minimum Cost

Okay, I am going to tell you something that will be completely new to you, but look at the Zimmerman Explorer feature to understand. This is the only way to get 8-9" suspension lift using the TTB instead of a solid axle. You would run a 5-6 inch lift bracket, cut and turn the TTB I-beams, buy a spring that is like 8" over stock. I know of NOBODY running this setup, but have always wondered how it works if possible.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





ok, so just for me can we go back to the original post question?

So pretty much anybody with an Explorer can get 4 inches of lift with the combination of 2 inches from shackles along with coil spacers (91-94) or Torsion Twist (95-present) and then a 2" body lift? For about $200?

And then 32x11.50 (or maybe even 33x12.50) tires will work on the factory rims?

Why doesn't everybody do at least this much modifying? Are there some drawbacks that I am missing?
"XLTime"

I have gotten confused here with all the other questions and XLT's other post comming in. I too want to raise my truck with minimum $$$ spent. Fitting 35" tires I do not care about. I think I catch on that shackles will raise my truck 2" and a total of $100. Am I right about that?

Next would be the torsion twist. Another 2"? Another $100? or body lifts are also mentioned, what would I got with and why?

IF you guys could please help me with this I would greatly appreciate it. I have been reading about this for so long and as you can see have made very little sense out of it.
 






Since I made the mess, I will try to clean it up. You can get almost 2 inches on your Explorer by doing the Torsion Twist (2 inches front) and extended shackles (2 inches rear). If you want more than two inches on the cheap, then you could do a body lift to get another 2 inches or 3 inches (depending on the lift) That would give you a total lift of around 4 or 5 inches.

Here are two links with great explanations on the torsion twist and shackles:

http://www.4x4central.com/torsionbars.html

Dead Link Removed

The second link has info on the body lifts too or you can do a search for the how-to and headaches of a body lift.
 






Thanks a bunch, I have been reading and talking to people for hours straight now and I got it pretty much straight. MY only questions left are-
When you get the kit made for the ranger there is a 2 and 3 inch available. From how people talk I get the feeling that there is extra modifying to be done if you get the 3"? How much and what is the cost if so. And as far as these lift kits for the ranger go, could I do them myself? How about the TT/shackles? aftert reading into I would thing it should be pretty easy but have most of you guys done the shackles yourselves?
Thanks a bunch
 






As long as you aren't mechanically inept, you can do the shacles/TT yourself. It will take some creative placement of jacks and jackstands to do it, but if you look at how the rear suspension works, it isn't hard to figure out what to do. I would say that most, if not all people here that have done it (myself included) have done it ourselves. I placed a jackstand under the rear of the frame for the side I was working on. Next I put a bottle jack between the leaf and frame, behind the rear axle and lifted just enough to make it tight. Next, I loosened the bolts for the stock shackle and removed it. Next I jacked up the bottle jack to get the distance between the end of the leaf and the frame to the same height as my longer shackles. Finally, I put the bolts in and tightened everything up. Repeat for other side.

I did the body lift myself with the help of a friend that had done his a couple weeks earlier. It is harder than the shackles, mainly because there is a lot more work involved. Nothing major though. It can easily be completed in a weekend. There really isn't much if any more work in doing the 3" lift versus the 2" though. I think some people have gotten by without the steering extension on the 2" lift but putting the extension in only adds about 15 minutes to the procedure. The emergency brake calbe might not need to be relocated either. The bulk of the work is still the same though. You still have to remove all 10 body mount bolts, jack up the body, put the new blocks in, and put it all back together. I would say at most the 2" lift might save you an hour over the 3". If there is any chance that you will want to go taller, go for the 3", otherwise you might end up doing it twice. If you are hoping to run 33s, then I would definately go for the 3". My current 265 75/16 tires fit with minor rubbing on my stock Explorer. Once I trimmed a piece of plastic from the wheel wells, the only time they rubbed was at full compression. At full compression they would contact the top of my plastic fender liner. It never caused a problem, but the tires did look like they were stuffed in there. That was the main reason for going with the body lift. It looks a lot better now with the added bonus of my tires not coming anywhere near the top of my fender liners now. When my current tires wear out, I am considering going up to the 33" equivalent 285 75R16. That sould be in about another year.
 






Robert

You are the best! :bounce:

and everyone else thanks a lot for helping me get all this stuff straightened out, look like i will do the TT/shackles shortly then go for the 3" lift

thanks agian guys :bounce:
 






Featured Content

Back
Top