Moog Control Arms

[Digitalgp]

I will need to replace the driver's side lower control arm soon on my '15 xlt as the large bushing is looking a little ratty. Not making any noise yet, but I'm not liking how that one bushing looks. Passenger side still looks good, but I'd rather replace as a pair. How are the moog arms compared to the oe's? They are less than half the price.

 

[peterk9]

I have no experience with Moog parts but judging from posts I have read, the quality of their overall parts isn't great.

Peter

 

[Digitalgp]

Interesting. I've bought stabilizer links & tie rods from them and have found them to be of good quality. Not sure on the control arms though since the original OE's are made like crap

 

[Bazz270]

Moog are chinese low-medium quality parts

Use OEM

 

[J_C]

If I am understanding which bushing it is, doesn't it bolt on, so "might" be as easy as well as less expensive to just replace the bushing/carrier?

The bushing I'm thinking of is silver colored on the top right of the picture on this product page:

More Information for MOTORCRAFT MCF2390

Rock Auto has those bushings alone, even a TRW as a whoesaler closeout for $23 ea.

2015 FORD EXPLORER 3.5L V6 Turbocharged Control Arm Bushing | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Since it's the rubber wearing out, I too would prefer OEM over Moog if buying the whole arm.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Any local auto parts store should have bushings. There are aftermarket performance bushings made out of thermoplastic which are a little tougher than the softer bushings.

 

[J_C]

^ Can the rubber portion just be pressed out and in? I wonder if it's not that simple since all the listings on Rock Auto (if I'm looking at the correct part) include the metal bracket around it, more than doubling the price compared to a rubber-only or standard metal sleeved rubber bushing. It also looks like a unique rubber design for whatever reason...

​

Is it possible your bushing looks bad because it's an odd looking bushing, not solid on the end(s)?​

I'm wondering why your bushing wore out so fast (IF it did) unless you drive it like you stole it? Granted, I put few miles on a year, I can see how someone driving more miles would wear things out, as 2015 isn't all that new anymore... wow, TIME FLIES!!

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could pop it out with a bench mounted vise or a hydraulic press then press a new one in. Put a socket into the place where the bushing is then start pressing.

 

[Odrapnew]

I think the rubber is secured to the aluminum around 'bracket' so if you tried to press the bushing out, it would be destroyed.

As for the bushing vs. full control arm, it's a toss up.

If you do just the bushing, I believe you still need to pull the control arm off to get it in a press to remove/reinstall the bushing on the control arm, but it might be possible to remove/reinstall the old with it still on the car.
At that point, you have a new rear bushing and old front bushing and ball joint.

Replacing the full control arm gets you all new bushings and ball joint, but yes, it's about 4-5x the cost as just the bushing.

Also, if it was like mine, the ball joint nut did not come off when removing the old so I had to cut off the ball joint stud. It was definitely good that I had the full control arm...although I had to go get a new ball joint nut from the dealer (another $8 or so).

 

[oo7]

I have had no issues with moog control arms on two vehicles I have used them on, including my 2001 Explorer and a car that I race on a road course. Make sure you compare moog vs. ebay no names. They are exactly the same, even the part # at about 1/2 the price. I used the cheaper ones.