ah bump steer, I remember those days hahaha jsut kidding the Superlift kit does help quite a bit, at least in my experience, but its still no swing set.....
My BII has soft Skyjacker coils, stiff springs SUCK IMO.
I tried to think with my truck: wider is better, and lower center of gravity is better (less lift, more travel). In an already tippy BII I knew I wanted ALOT of articulation without alot of lift height.
I can lift my front inside tire pretty easily in the BII around a corner if I give it some gas, the wide and low stance grips really well and although there is alot of body roll, the tires are so big and wide it doesnt really seem to matter. That does not mean I cant get tippy on the trail or the street, it just takes some getting used to, and some shock tuning......... then you are off to the races and people will look at you like WTF? I think the nose of my truck will lift about 18" when I punch the gas, and under heavy braking the back will raise up at least a foot, it must look pretty damn amusing to other drivers
Any trail rig with a soft suspension will handle this way. My truck has no sway bars either, it works awesome on the trail and rides way better then a BII was ever supossed to on the street. These are some of the reasons why I am keeping the TTB, not to say a solid axle cannot perform well, because it can, but because the ride with independant suspension is really nice and I like to be a bit different. As I said earlier even a TTB with 12" of travel or so will get you into some hairy places in a Ranger/Ex/or BII, it is usually plenty for most people. It gets a bad rep when it is not setup well, it is hard to keep aligned, the bump steer can cause some crazy driving habits, big tires take their toll on brakes, ball joints, bearings, u joints, etc so people often get fed up with the TTB and rip it out for a solid axle....but not everyone
the TTB is EASY to get alot of droop from, the hard part is getting more bump travel to help stretch its limitations, moving the coil bucket up a couple/few inches and running a much longer coil is a great idea, as are properly located bump stops.
I will likely go with a coil over up front on my BII next, it smooths out the TTB beam cycke even more by eliminating the seperate coil and shock connections to the beam/radius arm.
No matter what you bolt on under there or how much you trust the kit you have, the key is to cycle the beams, and carefully check the clearances of everything, you dont want the passenger side axleshaft hitting the beam, the hole in my passenger beam has been enlarged to about double its stock size. Check U joints, ball joints, tie rods, bushings, etc look at your bump stop and the clearance from the beam to the frame and diff to the frame, can you move the bump stop up a bit? Then flex it all out and measure for shocks, dont assume the shocks that came with your kit or right for your truck, I mean they likely work fine, but every truck is different, believe me and the little things can make all the difference
