moulding paint? we need a how-to!

[enjoip8nt]

after searching for an hour im posting a thread.


I know lots of people have painted the nasty off-color moulding on their X's.. I want to do the same thing so i took it to a shop and the guy said that it would eventually chip off in some areas and it wouldent be perfect quality..

Is this just how it is? The pics ive seen of other X's with painted trim, and it looks awesome..

My question to everyone reading this is what is the BEST way to get my moulding the same color as the car?

does ford sell factory painted moulding?

any help would be appreciated

 

[MONMIX]

it is tough to make work well.

Good prep work it can be accomplished

 

[james t]

Do you want to simply paint it bodycolor or smooth it out and paint it too? I did the "smoothie" method and it lasted years and years... but i can tell you it was eleventy bajillion hours of prepwork.

 

[enjoip8nt]

james, yea im pretty sure the smooth method is what i wana do... how does the paint look in comparison to the factory paint?

im probably going to have a shop do all the work...explain to me the smoothie method..

 

[james t]

Okay, as you know the tupperware or trim has "grain" pattern to it. To get rid of it, its a fairly simple procedure-

Remove trim

scuff with scotchbrite pad, wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with self etching primer

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

after about the millionth time of the above, you will get it level and ready to paint. You need to do a final coat in primer and wetsand 220, 400, 800 and then shoot it. Make sure the paint has a flex agent mixed in.

I was told by half the autobody guys around here that this would NOT work, and the other half said it would work great. I tried it anyway and it lasted no doubt. I never had even the slightest hint of spiderweb, even after twisting the stuff up on installation. I make no promises, but it worked for me.

 

[enjoip8nt]

thanks im having second thoughts now but if i do do it.. expect pics

what should i be paying a shop to do it? does 3-5 hundred $ sound about right?

 

[enjoip8nt]

james, what is tsp and tack cloth?

 

[james t]

TSP- trisodium phosphate <--- you do not need to use exactly this but the surface needs to be prep washed before you fog it with primer

tack cloth <--- its a cloth that is tacky that you get at the same place were you get your paint. This will remove any dust particles before you paint.



I am not a painter, i just do some stuff at home. MONMIX does this type of thing for a living so im sure he will chime in with anything i missed. I have no idea what a shop would charge you for doing it... the rates vary greatly depending on were you live and who is doing the work.

 

[jluv]

what should i be paying a shop to do it? does 3-5 hundred $ sound about right?

No way. For a decent shop to do it the right way, especially with all that prep, you're looking at a LOT more than that.

If I could find a shop around here (DFW) that would do a good job for $1k, I would jump on it.

 

[moose1]

you should be able to use the same method I used in the bumper painting process, still have No problem what so ever with the paint.

 

[ProjectAviator]

LIke said prep work is the key to good paint work, be it moldings or the whole thing. The paint is only as good as the body under it.

TSP sound like a wax and grease remover. There is stuff especialy for plastics, PPG DX103 is one. It makes sure the surface is free of anything that could affect the paint.

Tim

 

[MONMIX]

TSP. MONMIX does this type of thing for a living so im sure he will chime in with anything i missed. I have no idea what a shop would charge you for doing it... the rates vary greatly depending on were you live and who is doing the work.

Every thing you said sounds about right. I might add one more


gently wet sand with 220 grit 3m pad

wash with tsp, dry immediately, wipe with tack cloth

coat with filler primer

That said there is many varities to the steps listed. 100 body men can come up with 100 different process to achieve the exact same results.

To your process, my only acception would be to dry sand as opposed to wet sand.

6- one half dozen the other

 

[enjoip8nt]

thank you all!! ive decided i like it the way it is :]