Mountaineer 5.0 Chirp

[Mounty99]

1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0
221,000 miles

Love my mountaineer. We're having some cold weather down here in Texas, and it has developed a chirping sound at idle. No code or anything, just a pretty loud chirp. Did some reading, and seems like it's a common issue relating the the camshaft position sensor. My question is...

Do i just need the sensor, or should i get the synchronizer, the sensor, and the alignment tool as well? I think this runs the oil pump, so I don't want to screw this up. Really hoping to get the Mounty to 300k!

Thanks for any help or advice.

 

[koda2000]

The synchronizer is the part that's squeaking. I removed my sensor and put about 3-4 drops of ATF around the part that spins. I did this as a temporary measure, but it's been about 16-18 months now and it's still quiet. The truck has 225,000 miles on it, so good enough if all I have to do is lube it every 2 years.

If you decide to change the synchroniszer, you'll need the tool. I'd stay away from the Dorman and other reman synchronizers and go with a Motorcraft. Many have had problems with the Dorman synchronizers. You can reuse your old sensor.

 

[fjones]

Did the same thing koda2000 mention above about 3 years ago and it is still quiet.

 

[Mounty99]

Koda & fjones…thanks for the replies. If I do decide to just replace with the Ford Sync, should i get a Ford alignment tool as well? Or will any tool do the trick? Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

Koda & fjones…thanks for the replies. If I do decide to just replace with the Ford Sync, should i get a Ford alignment tool as well? Or will any tool do the trick? Thanks.

You don't need to buy the tool. Most auto parts stores will lend it with a deposit, however there are two different versions of the tool and you have to use the correct one. If you can puchase the correct tool for your synchronizer (and if it's not expensive) you may avoid any confusion.

 

[lobo411]

I don't have the 5.0, but before I ordered the part I'd stethoscope the sensor housing to be 100% sure that the sound is coming from there. Then I'd try the oil trick. Even if you really really want to change the synchro, putting oil on it will give you certainty that it's the problem (assuming the chirp goes away).

On my 4.0 OHV, what I thought was a synchro chirp turned out to be an incompatible drive belt. It was listed as the correct part on Amazon.com, but it turned out to be ~.5" too long. A shorter belt fixed the chirp.

 

[koda2000]

I don't have the 5.0, but before I ordered the part I'd stethoscope the sensor housing to be 100% sure that the sound is coming from there. Then I'd try the oil trick. Even if you really really want to change the synchro, putting oil on it will give you certainty that it's the problem (assuming the chirp goes away).

On my 4.0 OHV, what I thought was a synchro chirp turned out to be an incompatible drive belt. It was listed as the correct part on Amazon.com, but it turned out to be ~.5" too long. A shorter belt fixed the chirp.

Good point. I used a stethoscope on my sensor and it told me that my chirp was absolutely coming from my cam synchronizer. This seems to be a more common problem on the 5.0L engine.

Honestly I don't see why you would replace the synchronizer on an engine with 221,000 miles on it if a few drops of ATF will get rid of the noise for years, but to each his own. In my case it was the middle of winter and the replacement procedure requires more effort and risk than I wanted to invest unless necessary.

 

[Mounty99]

Thanks everyone. I'm always up for saving some cash, so will try the ATF. I noticed some people have used ATF, machine oil, etc, etc to help this problem. Is one better than the other? If not, I'll just use the ATF.

And again, when doing this, just remove the sensor (two bolts) and put few drops of AFT down into the synchronizer…then simply replace sensor? Sounds simple enough. I've read that there is a magnet involved in this setup that often has come loose?? So just want to make sure I don't somehow screw this up…

Thanks again.

 

[koda2000]

Someone suggested using ATF to me, so that's what I used. It's worked very well, so I see no reason to use something else. When I removed my cam sensor I just removed the 2 tiny bolts and it came right off. Nothing came apart. If you look down into the synchronizer you'll see that the center part is what spins. I used a old dental syringe to squirt the ATF down around the center part, but I don't know that it's necessary to be that precise. I imagine all your trying to do is lubricate a bushing. It's easy to do and costs nothing so you might as well try it. If the chirping only stops for a month or two, at least you'll know for sure that's where the problem is.

 

[Mounty99]

Someone suggested using ATF to me, so that's what I used. It's worked very well, so I see no reason to use something else. When I removed my cam sensor I just removed the 2 tiny bolts and it came right off. Nothing came apart.

Sounds good. Thanks again!

 

[koda2000]

Sounds good. Thanks again!

Let us know how you make out.

 

[Mounty99]

Let us know how you make out.

Well, removed the sensor. Shot a little compressed air down into the synchronizer to blow out old dust, etc. Added some ATF. Started the engine for 30 seconds to help work the ATF down into the bearings. Shut off engine, and added little bit more ATF. Lightly brushed excess fluid off top of sync with paper towel. Replaced everything.

So, chirp in gone! But…now my check engine light in on with P0340. Wondering if I added too much ATF? Has this happened to others after lubing the sync? Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

Well, removed the sensor. Shot a little compressed air down into the synchronizer to blow out old dust, etc. Added some ATF. Started the engine for 30 seconds to help work the ATF down into the bearings. Shut off engine, and added little bit more ATF. Lightly brushed excess fluid off top of sync with paper towel. Replaced everything.

So, chirp in gone! But…now my check engine light in on with P0340. Wondering if I added too much ATF? Has this happened to others after lubing the sync? Thanks.

My guess is you added too much oil. I was told to only put a few drops of ATF on it, so that's what I did. That was almost 18 months ago. No CEL and no chirp either. How does it run? I'd remove the sensor clean up any excess ATF from the sensor and synchronizer, reset the CEL and see if it returns. Also check the wiring and connector to the sensor. P0340 is a sensor circuit problem.

 

[Mounty99]

How does it run? I'd remove the sensor clean up any excess ATF from the sensor and synchronizer, reset the CEL and see if it returns.

As of now it's running great. Quiet as a mouse. I did reset the CEL, and waiting to see if check engine returns. As i said, I started car with sensor completely off the sync, so that probably threw the code.

On a side note, I probably put 1/2 a cap of Amsoil ATF down into that synchronizer. Is there an opening at the bottom for any excess fluid to get out? Otherwise, is it a big problem if the bearings are pretty saturated with the ATF fluid? Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

As of now it's running great. Quiet as a mouse. I did reset the CEL, and waiting to see if check engine returns. As i said, I started car with sensor completely off the sync, so that probably threw the code.

On a side note, I probably put 1/2 a cap of Amsoil ATF down into that synchronizer. Is there an opening at the bottom for any excess fluid to get out? Otherwise, is it a big problem if the bearings are pretty saturated with the ATF fluid? Thanks.

Oh, if you started the engine with the CPS sensor off, that most certainly caused the CEL. Why would you do that? I imagine eventually any excess oil will drain out the bottom of the synchroniser. I would think the shaft runs in a bushing rather than a bearing, which would probably take longer for the oil to drain through, but whatever. If the CEL doesn't return, don't worry about it. I'd told you to put 3-4 drops of ATF on the synchroniser, not 1/2 a cap full. That was way too much, but as long as it stays out of the sensor it shouldn't hurt anything.

 

[Mounty99]

If you started the engine with the CPS sensor off, that most certainly caused the CEL. Why would you do that?

Thanks Koda. Yeah, got a little carried away when i saw the first round of fluid work down into the synchronizer. Started engine with sensor off to help get ATF down in the sync and hopefully NOT on the sensor. I watched this video (see below) as well before doing the job. I'll let you know how it goes with the P0340. Thanks again.

 

[Mounty99]

Let us know how you make out.

Happy to report that the ATF did the trick! The check engine light did not return, and Mounty is running quiet as a mouse. Thanks to Koda and everyone for the great advice.

 

[Mountinheer]

Ooo man. I just did powersteering pump and ac bearing chasing a chirp..... After all the idlers.

...Doing this tomorrow...

 

[Mountinheer]

Went with synth gear lube and a shot of Deep Creep to get it moving. Quiet so for. Thanks guys!

And all the other crap needed replacing anyways I guess.