Camshaft Synchronizer

[koda2000]

My daughter's 2000 5.0 Mountaineer has started making a chirping noise. At first I was thinking it was a idler or tensioner pulley bearing, but using my stethoscope, I've tracked the chirp down to the cam synchronizer. I've read up on changing this thing, and think I know how to go about it. I'm not a big Dorman fan and I've read about the poor quality and smaller roll pin on the cam gear, but the price is 1/3 of what the Motorcraft part costs on RockAuto.

This truck has 215,000 miles on it and is starting to show it's age (uses a little oil, leaks a little oil, leaks water on to the driver's side front floor, but I can't figure from where). It still runs and drives well and gets her to/from work, so I'd like to keep it going as long as I can.

Two questions:
1. How long can this thing continue chirping and how big of a deal is it? She currently drives about 150 miles a week and on any given drive it might chirp, or it might not. Should I have her stop driving it until I get around to changing the cam synchronizer?

2. According to RA the Dorman part is a "favorite"... Who votes for the Dorman and who votes that I buy the Motorcraft?

 

[FordGT55]

The Cam synchro could make noise for a while. I drove mine for a few weeks with it chirping. I've had to replace mine twice (Napa dorman parts) but the second time there was a cam code no chirp noise. I just warranty mine through napa so I don't mind using Dorman but I would suggest purchasing the Motorcraft part if you plan on keeping it for a few more years.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Dorman only if you replace the roll pin. If you want a quality direct drop in piece Motorcraft. I bought a Dorman and then tossed it in the trash when it was brand new and bought the Motorcraft after I read the horror stories (didn't do my research and couldn't return it). The Dormans have a rep of lasting 500-2000 miles and snapping the roll pin. When that snaps you lose oil pressure and you know what happens when you lose that.

 

[crunchie_frog]

I replaced one in November of 2014 with a Richporter FD40S for a 2000 5.0. At the time they were ~$30. No issues, looked at the roll pin and it looked similar to the Motorcraft I pulled out. It comes with the alignment tool. I have had no issues. I think some folks have tried lubricating the existing one and stopped the chirp, at least temporarily as you probably have read.

 

[96eb96]

Dorman only if you replace the roll pin. If you want a quality direct drop in piece Motorcraft. I bought a Dorman and then tossed it in the trash when it was brand new and bought the Motorcraft after I read the horror stories (didn't do my research and couldn't return it). The Dormans have a rep of lasting 500-2000 miles and snapping the roll pin. When that snaps you lose oil pressure and you know what happens when you lose that.

I don't think that is a problem anymore. Guess what gets installed when you take you car to almost any indy shop with that issue?

I'm sure there would be a ton of backlash by now.

 

[koda2000]

In looking at alternatives to Motorcraft, I see descriptions that say "with step-on plug and "w/o step-on plug". What is this referring to? I also noticed that the Motorcraft part doesn't even include the sensor piece.

Also, can the sensor part be removed (to squirt some oil on the synchronizer) w/out needing to realign anything. I would assume so.

 

[crunchie_frog]

In looking at alternatives to Motorcraft, I see descriptions that say "with step-on plug and "w/o step-on plug". What is this referring to? I also noticed that the Motorcraft part doesn't even include the sensor piece.

Also, can the sensor part be removed (to squirt some oil on the synchronizer) w/out needing to realign anything. I would assume so.

It refers to the connector. The plug will have a "shelf" in it. You likely have a step plug, all of my 5.0 have them.

 

[Turdle]

Also, can the sensor part be removed (to squirt some oil on the synchronizer) w/out needing to realign anything. I would assume so.

Yes.Use a syringe and some Trans fluid, maybe some marvel oil if you have it. Just a dab will do ya. Try to get it under the rotating part in the center--of course. Try to use just a little, you may see it drip through to the block. I think there is a weep hole in the casing

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I don't think that is a problem anymore. Guess what gets installed when you take you car to almost any indy shop with that issue?

I'm sure there would be a ton of backlash by now.

I'd still replace the roll pin. I compared it to the Motorcraft one I got and it was a joke. Also IIRC My Motorcraft one did come with a sensor as well as the tool. I got it off Rockauto for 100 bucks or something around there.

 

[koda2000]

Yes.Use a syringe and some Trans fluid, maybe some marvel oil if you have it. Just a dab will do ya. Try to get it under the rotating part in the center--of course. Try to use just a little, you may see it drip through to the block. I think there is a weep hole in the casing

So today I decided to try oiling the cam synchronizer by removing the sensor (2 tiny 7/32 bolts and it came right off). Then I took a syringe that I'd saved from when I had my wisdom teeth pulled 20+ years ago, sucked up some ATF and squired it around the center part of the synchronizer. I actually have a can of Marvel Mystery Oil I think I bought in the 60's (I never throw anything potentially useful away... LOL) and have yet to open, but the ATF was handy so that's what I used. I put the sensor back on and fired the engine and no more chirping. I have no idea how long the silence will last, but it's pretty easy to do and I don't feel like messing with the synchronizer right now. I figure if it will get me a month before re-oiling it I can limp it along until springtime.

Thanks for the tip.