My 2001 Ford Explorer will not start (but it cranks).

[bigmac5454]

My 2001 ford explorer will not start sometimes just turns over.

I located the fuel reset switch and the red button is down but I put pressure on it and the car starts, but sometimes I have to repeat putting pressure on the reset switch several times be for it starts so I don't know if it is starting becuase of putting pressure in the switch or turning on off the ignition or just waiting a few mins.

Thank you all.....but I have seen so many posts here where people replaced the fuel pump to find out its something else: what about the fuel pump relay? the inertia switch with intermittent
Today I want out and turned key to on and heard click then fuel pump noise started up.

sometimes I don't hear anything then no start.


Any suggestions?

Thanks bigmac5454

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've renamed your thread, and moved it into the stock 95-01 section. Check the inertia switch with a continuity tester the next time you have a no start condition.

 

[swetrid]

Sounds like bad fuel pump to me.

 

[bigmac5454]

so it could be a bad inertia switch

 

[bigmac5454]

Today I want out and turned key to on and heard click then fuel pump noise started up.

sometimes I don't hear anything then no start.

 

[rego]

Almost surely the fuel pump is on it's way out. If you going to replace it yourself you could go by the book (drop the tank) or cut an access door. Search this forum for access door info.

 

[bigmac5454]

Thank you all.....but I have seen so many posts here where people replaced the fuel pump to find out its something else: what about the fuel pump relay? the inertia switch with intermittent contact?

 

[bigmac5454]

It has never died once it started.......how could it be the fuel pump. with all respect.

 

[rego]

Anything is possible, I'm going the most likely route. As I understand it there may be a "dead spot" on the fuel pump motor. Once the motor is spinning the dead spot keeps rotating past the brushes.

 

[bobflood]

If every time you have a no-start condition, you can "jiggle" the inertia switch and then it starts, it sure sounds like the inertia switch is bad. Brooklyn Bay has the right idea to see if you have continuity thru the switch next time you have a no-start. You will have to be careful that you don't jiggle the switch while you are testing, however. Another idea is to rig up a jumper wire around the inertia switch and leave it disconnected. Then, next time it doesn't start, connect the jumper - if the truck then starts, you have confirmed the switch as the problem.

 

[Samhogue410]

I have the same issue. It cranks but takes a few attempt to start. Only notice it when it's below 45 degrees or so. Think it might be the starter or fuel pump? Need advice

 

[JLawson71]

I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. As I was driving, it acted as if it ran out of gas when I have a half tank and now it will not start. It cranks, but nothing. I have replaced the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, and the fuel filter. The fuel pump relay checks out good, the fuel pump engages and hums and the fuel rail is getting fuel. Any ideas on what it could be?

 

[98 MERC]

I have the same issue. It cranks but takes a few attempt to start. Only notice it when it's below 45 degrees or so. Think it might be the starter or fuel pump? Need advice

I have that same issue ! with my 98 5.0.I notice that my fuel pump squeals and gurgles when this happens.It also happens when its hot out but worse when cold.But sometimes it starts with 1 try.It pisses me off because its embarrassing.

 

[koda2000]

I have that same issue ! with my 98 5.0.I notice that my fuel pump squeals and gurgles when this happens.It also happens when its hot out but worse when cold.But sometimes it starts with 1 try.It pisses me off because its embarrassing.

So why don't you change your fuel pump?

 

[98 MERC]

So why don't you change your fuel pump?

Many many reasons.First reason is i am not a mechanic.2nd reason is i would have to pay a mechanic.Then i would have to buy a motorcraft pump so thats close to 300$ alone then i would have to pay my mechanic like 350$ to drop the tank.Then i would have to replace the pressure regulator because thats junk too.

Also i dropped it off to him last year because i was fed up with this total BS not starting issue.He kept it for a week and said he was able to RE create the non starting issue HOWEVER,was not able to tell what was causing it.He back probed the pcm harness and all reading's were fine.He said fuel pressure was fine with a gauge. I WAS SOOOOOOOO pist off.I just gave up.He says that he thinks my PCM is bad.I was like WHAT ??? How would the dam thing even run at all with a bad pcm ???? Hell man i can drive it all day long and aggressive ! It just starts like **** ! Even the OB2 communications port connects with any cheap scanner.I just cant see the pcm as the problem.I know that turning the key on and off like 5 times with most likely make it start every time.When i do that i can hear the fuel pump scream like a little animal is under my truck and i hear lots of gurgling inside the tank.But how can the pump be bad if i can daily drive the truck ????

So you can see why i haven't done anymore work.I am afraid that if i spend like 650$ to fix the pump that nothing will change.

So their is your answer my friend.I am pist off and had enough of this BS.I cant seem to get the right help.I know that my only last chance resort of salvation is taking to the ford dealer and tell them HAVE FUN !!!!!! Then i will wait for the 1,000 dollar troubleshoot bill with no result.

 

[koda2000]

98 Merc,
The fuel pump should never make any noise other than a slight hum for about 2 seconds when you first turn the key from OFF to ON. If it's making screeching noises it has a bad bushing/bearing. If your fuel gauge is working okay you don't need the entire fuel pump assembly, just a pump. A good quality Bosch fuel pump costs about $55 on eBay. With a new fuel filter and a new strainer sock you costs for parts are still well under $100. I never buy Motorcraft parts unless there's no alternative. They're way to expensive. Likewise if I ever have a job I don't feel like doing myself I have a local mechanic I trust and whose prices are very reasonable. I never take my vehicles to the stealership for repairs. They're way to overpriced and their 20 year old mechanics don't work on enough 20 year old vehicles to know what they're doing. If you lived closer I'd change your fuel pump for you for $150. I've got it down to a 90 min job, and I don't work fast.

We have 5 Explorers/Mountaineers in the family, plus a Sport Trac. I maintain all of them and I have replaced the Motorcraft fuel pump in all 6 vehicles in the past 18 months. They all started acting up between 175K-200K. I understand your not a mechanic, but at some point in the very near future you truck will not start and you wont be in your driveway when it happens. Get it fixed or spend your money on a newer vehicle. One way or the other it's gonna cost you.

 

[98 MERC]

98 Merc,
The fuel pump should never make any noise other than a slight hum for about 2 seconds when you first turn the key from OFF to ON. If it's making screeching noises it has a bad bushing/bearing. If your fuel gauge is working okay you don't need the entire fuel pump assembly, just a pump. A good quality Bosch fuel pump costs about $55 on eBay. With a new fuel filter and a new strainer sock you costs for parts are still well under $100. I never buy Motorcraft parts unless there's no alternative. They're way to expensive. Likewise if I ever have a job I don't feel like doing myself I have a local mechanic I trust and whose prices are very reasonable. I never take my vehicles to the stealership for repairs. They're way to overpriced and their 20 year old mechanics don't work on enough 20 year old vehicles to know what they're doing. If you lived closer I'd change your fuel pump for you for $150. I've got it down to a 90 min job, and I don't work fast.

We have 5 Explorers/Mountaineers in the family, plus a Sport Trac. I maintain all of them and I have replaced the Motorcraft fuel pump in all 6 vehicles in the past 18 months. They all started acting up between 175K-200K. I understand your not a mechanic, but at some point in the very near future you truck will not start and you wont be in your driveway when it happens. Get it fixed or spend your money on a newer vehicle. One way or the other it's gonna cost you.

I appreciate the offer for the fuel pump change out but yea you are in Georgia.Honestly the truck sits in the garage mostly now.I probly drive it 5 times a month.Its very pretty looking and only has 129,000 miles. Minimal rust, i got it from the original family.I had the motor redone 2 years ago and new BFG tires and shocks and exhaust.Its toreador red metallic 2 tone.I had a new filter and plugs and wires done 2 years ago and new ignition coils and new IAC valve.


I just don't get how it drives fine once running but Dam when you turn it off. Its like Russian rullet, You don't know if it will start 1st try or 5-6 key cycles.One time it even backfired out the exhaust when i kept turning the key on and off while cranking trying to get it to fire.No check engine lights.I know sometimes when i am sitting at a light and i go to give it about half throttle it chokes out and comes back to life with in a second, it never stalls on me.Its had these problems before i even had the motor redone or any of the above mentioned repairs.I was thinking maybe a throttle position sensor is at fault and fuel pump both ? But i would think the bad sensor would trigger a light.



But the fuel pump is very suspicious to me.It could be the pump is getting hot when i drive it and when i turn it off and try to RE start that it just cant build pressure till i turn the key on and off like 5 times.I am not sure what the gurgling sound is in the tank ? I thought maybe it is just the return fuel system dumping fuel back in the tank.

 

[98 MERC]

Here is a video of the truck ! Watch the whole thing.It started after 2 key cycles that time.

 

[45Frank]

I appreciate the offer for the fuel pump change out but yea you are in Georgia.Honestly the truck sits in the garage mostly now.I probly drive it 5 times a month.Its very pretty looking and only has 129,000 miles. Minimal rust, i got it from the original family.I had the motor redone 2 years ago and new BFG tires and shocks and exhaust.Its toreador red metallic 2 tone.I had a new filter and plugs and wires done 2 years ago and new ignition coils and new IAC valve.


I just don't get how it drives fine once running but Dam when you turn it off. Its like Russian rullet, You don't know if it will start 1st try or 5-6 key cycles.One time it even backfired out the exhaust when i kept turning the key on and off while cranking trying to get it to fire.No check engine lights.I know sometimes when i am sitting at a light and i go to give it about half throttle it chokes out and comes back to life with in a second, it never stalls on me.Its had these problems before i even had the motor redone or any of the above mentioned repairs.I was thinking maybe a throttle position sensor is at fault and fuel pump both ? But i would think the bad sensor would trigger a light.



But the fuel pump is very suspicious to me.It could be the pump is getting hot when i drive it and when i turn it off and try to RE start that it just cant build pressure till i turn the key on and off like 5 times.I am not sure what the gurgling sound is in the tank ? I thought maybe it is just the return fuel system dumping fuel back in the tank.

I once had a S-10 P/U that did this. If it started it would run forever but shut it down and it was a crap shoot if it would start. You had to go under the truck and hit the gas tank and rock it and it may of started.
It was the fuel pump in the gas tank. Was actually the wire connection that had worn down and was rusted. This was a service vehicle so I stopped more than a dozen times a day. It was towed from more than one stop and it did take a few different mechanics until one finally figured it out.

 

[koda2000]

In my experience (which is considerable) when the fuel pumps go, they usually begin with intermittent starting problems. This usually shows up when the cooler weather arrives. They may be fine all summer, but as soon as the cold weather returns they can't be trusted. There is a reason for this, but I wont go into that now. When this happens It takes multiple ON/OFF's with the key to get the fuel pump to run. Once it runs it will start fine and will be fine for the rest of the day. Let it sit overnight and you have to do the multiple ON/OFF key thing again. They can limp along like this for a long time. It's just the nature of worn out electric motors.

Your problem is a bit different, in that you have relatively low mileage, but there is definitely as issue with your fuel pump in that it makes screeching noises, which it should never do. I don't know about the gurgling noise, but I don't think that's significant and is related to the fuel return.

You may have other problems, but the fuel pump needs to be changed and might very well solve your starting problem. That's certainly where I'd begin. The short piece of submersible fuel line that connects the pump to the fuel pump assembly and it's hose clamps should also be replaced. They can become loose or split with age. I replace the worm-style clamps with FI-style clamps.

It's a good looking truck and in nice condition, especially for a rust belt truck. It's worth putting the time and money into it that it will take to make it reliable.

BTW, I noticed that you have replaced the stock oil filler cap with a chrome breather cap. This in itself will lead to problems with the PCV system. That cap is meant to be sealed, not vented. Put the original cap back on.