my clutch went bad, shops are asking over a thousand to replace it

[410Fortune]

Autozone clutch very expensive vs rockauto or the like

The pilot bearing is in the flywheel on these if you remove the flywheel then you do not need grease or bread to press it out

I’m not aware of a special tool needed to bleed the clutch master? Are you talking about releasing the hydraulic line from the clutch slave?

 

[J5hort]

I'd say with shipping from Rock Auto the difference is not that much. I think I was around $125 for a Duralast. looks like it has increased (like everything else) since then. But pickup or free next day shipping helps if there is a time crunch.

 

[J5hort]

Autozone clutch very expensive vs rockauto or the like

The pilot bearing is in the flywheel on these if you remove the flywheel then you do not need grease or bread to press it out

I’m not aware of a special tool needed to bleed the clutch master? Are you talking about releasing the hydraulic line from the clutch slave?

Yes. tool is pretty simple, but it is to remove clip from slave cylinder. Assuming flywheel is good and will not be removed.

Again this is a mostly labor job, parts $200, add about a $1000 for labor when all is said and done.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I wouldn’t reuse a flywheel, or use a duralast clutch. Do it right, do it once.

 

[J5hort]

I wouldn’t reuse a flywheel, or use a duralast clutch. Do it right, do it once.

My 1995 Explorer Sport with 200+ miles don't lie. From my records:
Sunday, November 19, 2017

Description:
$107.19 - Duralast NU0116-1 Clutch Kit
$39.99 - Duralast 12596/360016 Clutch Slave Cylinder
(4) @ $7.39 Trans Fluid

 

[Mbrooks420]

The replacement clutch is 200k old?

 

[C420sailor]

When a part is a pain in the ass to get to, I only use the best parts. I want to minimize the odds of me having to do that job again early.

The problem with auto parts store brands like Duralast is that you don’t know who is making them this month. That 2017 clutch and flywheel could’ve been a rebranded LUK. Their 2022 one could be a rebranded China special.

But that’s just me. Some people like to roll the dice.

I’ve seen plenty of people try to save money by buying a Cloyes hydraulic tensioner, only to have to buy the OEM tensioner and re-do the job two weeks later. Or worse.

 

[Josh P]

Harbor freight sells a nice cheap transmission jack. My roommate got tired of being volunteered to help remove and install the transmissions on my cars so he bought one. It makes the job easier. If you don't have a friend in the world when you need them, buy 2 longer bolts for the top 2 spots in the bellhousing. I did that with the last manual transmission, those hold the transmission and allows you to wiggle the transmission to get it to seat. Keeps you from having to hold the transmission up.

 

[J5hort]

The replacement clutch is 200k old?

Don't be silly (but maybe this one will last that long). Mileage since 2017 is on duralast clutch. Probably around 85K miles. Original lasted well over 100K+. No signs of any issues on current.
May outlast the truck. Not bad for a 27 year old truck.

OP wondering if it was worth replacing clutch for $1000. Just providing some context. As mentioned, difference in $ for parts will be least of the worries (unless they are upcharged by mechanic). Big part of this job is the labor. Truck is probably worth $2000 book, maybe a little more with new used car prices. Anyone with some mechanical skills, time and a few special tools can do this and save quite a bit of $.

 

[J5hort]

When a part is a pain in the ass to get to, I only use the best parts. I want to minimize the odds of me having to do that job again early.

The problem with auto parts store brands like Duralast is that you don’t know who is making them this month. That 2017 clutch and flywheel could’ve been a rebranded LUK. Their 2022 one could be a rebranded China special.

But that’s just me. Some people like to roll the dice.

I’ve seen plenty of people try to save money by buying a Cloyes hydraulic tensioner, only to have to buy the OEM tensioner and re-do the job two weeks later. Or worse.

I use duralast on 6 cars I maintain and have not had any issues. Mostly brake pads. I change them every year, not because they wear out too quick, but because they are a lifetime warranty and replacements are free. Changing that often probably help my rotors last as long as they do... and my labor is free. Duralast clutch is doing just fine in my 95 Sport.

 

[J5hort]

Harbor freight sells a nice cheap transmission jack. My roommate got tired of being volunteered to help remove and install the transmissions on my cars so he bought one. It makes the job easier. If you don't have a friend in the world when you need them, buy 2 longer bolts for the top 2 spots in the bellhousing. I did that with the last manual transmission, those hold the transmission and allows you to wiggle the transmission to get it to seat. Keeps you from having to hold the transmission up.

+1 on the transmission jack (low profile one I imagine). First time I dropped a transmission it was without transmission jack. Very unstable and dangerous. I under up with hands and feet bear hugging the thing and rolling it off my body. Like the long bolt idea, slipping off the shaft seems to be the stickler.

 

[Josh P]

+1 on the transmission jack (low profile one I imagine). First time I dropped a transmission it was without transmission jack. Very unstable and dangerous. I under up with hands and feet bear hugging the thing and rolling it off my body. Like the long bolt idea, slipping off the shaft seems to be the stickler.

1st transmission I dropped was in my 91 aerostar van. I was standing on the seats with a rope around the transmission through the doghouse and my buddy was under the vehicle. The install went almost as bad as the removal. The input shaft on the transmission didn't want to seat in the pilot bearing so out of desperation I got some longer bolts. It held the transmission while I rocked it up and down, pushing it in. With bleeding the clutch master cylinder, once fluid makes it to the slave I pull the C clip off the rod in the master cylinder, lift the rod till fluid comes out. Push the rod in and seat the C clip. Last clutch bleed I was able to do it by myself in under 5 minutes.

 

[J5hort]

1st transmission I dropped was in my 91 aerostar van. I was standing on the seats with a rope around the transmission through the doghouse and my buddy was under the vehicle. The install went almost as bad as the removal. The input shaft on the transmission didn't want to seat in the pilot bearing so out of desperation I got some longer bolts. It held the transmission while I rocked it up and down, pushing it in. With bleeding the clutch master cylinder, once fluid makes it to the slave I pull the C clip off the rod in the master cylinder, lift the rod till fluid comes out. Push the rod in and seat the C clip. Last clutch bleed I was able to do it by myself in under 5 minutes.

Good food for thought for original post. Things do not always go as smooth as planned and there is a reason that the labor cost is quoted as it is.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Don't be silly (but maybe this one will last that long). Mileage since 2017 is on duralast clutch. Probably around 85K miles. Original lasted well over 100K+. No signs of any issues on current.
May outlast the truck. Not bad for a 27 year old truck.

OP wondering if it was worth replacing clutch for $1000. Just providing some context. As mentioned, difference in $ for parts will be least of the worries (unless they are upcharged by mechanic). Big part of this job is the labor. Truck is probably worth $2000 book, maybe a little more with new used car prices. Anyone with some mechanical skills, time and a few special tools can do this and save quite a bit of $.

How am I being silly? You included the 200k like it mattered, not me.

 

[J5hort]

How am I being silly? You included the 200k like it mattered, not me.

Basic grammar: "1995 Explorer Sport with 200+ miles" Explorer is the subject. Disagree with your assessment of Durlast parts, based on my experience. Truck has many and seems to be lasting quite a while.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

imo, i prefer buying the OE parts, but if its an easy part to replace (unlike clutch) ill go wherever is cheapest.... however, if it was something likek the clutch, unless there is an upgraded version, i would probably go OE... but that sjust my opinion! duralast has been pretty good in my experience though, just not sure i would use it for something that critical/commonly. used as the clutch

 

[J5hort]

imo, i prefer buying the OE parts, but if its an easy part to replace (unlike clutch) ill go wherever is cheapest.... however, if it was something likek the clutch, unless there is an upgraded version, i would probably go OE... but that sjust my opinion! duralast has been pretty good in my experience though, just not sure i would use it for something that critical/commonly. used as the clutch

I really think you would be fine for a daily driver. I'd liken it to buying a store brand. Most likely manufactured by a large manufacturer, bought in bulk for volume savings and branded/marketed as Duralast. Ever wonder why the brand name and store brand mayo jars look exactly the same?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I really think you would be fine for a daily driver. I'd liken it to buying a store brand. Most likely manufactured by a large manufacturer, bought in bulk for volume savings and branded/marketed as Duralast. Ever wonder why the brand name and store brand mayo jars look exactly the same?

true, iirc carquest rotors are raybestos, but i'd like to find auto zones sources prior to buying, but i do see your point!

 

[J5hort]

true, iirc carquest rotors are raybestos, but i'd like to find auto zones sources prior to buying, but i do see your point!

I hear Valeo or Luk are marketed as Duralast, but have not been able to confirm. Agree on checking first. I have gone the route of really cheap aftermarket wheel hubs and regretted it. Was always able to find Timken or Moog ones on Ebay for less. Yup, do your homework is the key. The 95 seems good with hubs, but my 2008 XLT likes to beat them up. Can swap them in my sleep.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I hear Valeo or Luk, but have not been able to confirm. Agree on checking first. I have gone the route of really cheap aftermarket wheel hubs and regretted it. Was always able to find Timken or Moog ones on Ebay for less. Yup, do your homework is the key. The 95 seems good with hubs, but my 2008 XLT likes to beat them up. Can swap them in my sleep.

oh ok! then in that case if the duralast is Luk, then it should be fine as luk is the OE supplier! good luk

(sorry for all the luk jokes, its impossible not to make them! )