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My Explorer is throwing EGR codes...

deernet

Active Member
Joined
November 27, 2009
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City, State
Morristown, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 Explorer Sport
My Explorer has had the check engine light on since I've got it a couple weeks ago. I went to Advanced and had them run the codes and it was throwing two having to do with EGR. One of them was I think "EGR flow insufficient", and I can't remember exactly what the other one was, but it was also to do with EGR. They told me that it was probably my O2 sensors, and that it said they it was throwing a code on both banks, so I would need two.

My question is, I know that they made a thing for Mustangs that plugged in where the O2 sensor is that just sends the right sensor to the computer to keep the "Check Engine" light from coming on if your not running cats. Would one of these work on an Explorer?

At Advanced the O2 sensors were $43 a piece. If I've got to get them, is there anywhere that has them cheaper?

Thanks for the help. :salute:
 



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this only works for the downstream o2's, which dont control performance. they just measure cat efficiency.

so basically your paying $60 to turn off a light and do nothing else.
 






Check the driver side of your engine for a egr tube on the manifold. follow it to 2 smaller metal tubes running from it. Hoses attach to these smaller tubes and go to the DPFE sensor
Check the hoses well, you need to pull them off checking for holes or cracks.

if you do see holes, replace the hoses with emissions hose and reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery negative cable for a few minutes.
If the problem comes back, or no holes are found in the hoses, you might have a bad DPFE sensor
 






Check the driver side of your engine for a egr tube on the manifold. follow it to 2 smaller metal tubes running from it. Hoses attach to these smaller tubes and go to the DPFE sensor
Check the hoses well, you need to pull them off checking for holes or cracks.

if you do see holes, replace the hoses with emissions hose and reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery negative cable for a few minutes.
If the problem comes back, or no holes are found in the hoses, you might have a bad DPFE sensor

I'll try that first thing tomorrow. What's DPFE stand for? Do you think it might not have anything to do with the O2 sensors?

I was reading on a Celica forum after a search about someone making their own O2 sensor eliminators from a capacitor and a resistor.
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=216641
 












You are much better off fixing the problem than trying to fool the PCM

DPFE
Differential Feedback Pressure EGR

Yeah, I know what you're saying. I just hated to spend $80+ for two O2 sensors. Hopefully it's just the tubing though.

I like your sig quote by the way. I loved "Devil's Rejects".
 






Yeah, I know what you're saying. I just hated to spend $80+ for two O2 sensors. Hopefully it's just the tubing though.

I like your sig quote by the way. I loved "Devil's Rejects".

You are the first one to catch it-

Anyway-your trouble is not the 02 sensors. It is egr related,

The dpfe is a common issue round these parts. Search and you will see.

The egr valve could be clogged or non functional also, but that is rare.

The only other component in the egr system is the vacuum solenoid which switches vacuum to the egr valve. Check the wiring, and check for broken vacuum lines also.

Usually, the egr code is DPFE related.
 






ya its most likely not o2... given that its an egr code lol.

and yes, fooling the pcm is never the best route.

dpfe sensors fail often, i had a cel on the ranger for about 4 months with an egr code, and i finally replaced the sensor and that fixed it right away.
 






Only reason I thought it was an 02 sensor is cause that's what the fat lady at Advanced told me. I should have known not to trust her...
 






O2 sensors not related to EGR

I can't think of any way that a bad O2 sensor would result in an EGR DTC. Insufficient EGR flow could be due to condensation in the DPFE inlet tubes, bad DPFE, stuck closed EGR valve, cracked or broken vacuum hose from from EGR vacuum regulator to EGR valve, bad EGR vacuum regulator, cracked or broken vacuum hose from vacuum source to EGR vacuum regulator. I've listed them in the order of most likely to least likely cause of failure. If you knew the other EGR related code it would help isolate to the source of the problem.

There are tests you can perform to determine what is causing the problem if you're interested.
 






What were the actual code numbers you got?
 






When I kiched the egr code, a couple days later I also kicked a O2 sensor code. While doing searches here I noticed it happened quite a bit to others as well.

Do what Turdle says and fix the egr code problem first. As the DPFE is a little pricey, I'd pull the egr and see if it's working correctly first. Another thing you can do is to take a piece of vacuum hose, put it onto the egr valve and with the vehicle idling suck in on it. If the engine stumbles it's probably working ok.
 






You might also check the joint between the EGR tube and the exhaust manifold. I saw a 99 XLT the other night where the EGR tube was totally rusted and broken away from the manifold at the flange/joint.

BH
 






Bypass EGR testing

Easy way of testing the EGR system.

Take the hose off the EGR Valve. Then pull both hoses off the DPFE Sensor, plug the hoses and re-attach the hose that used to go to the EGR Valve, to the "Ref" hose port on the DPFE Sensor.

This only works if your DPFE sensor is good or just starting to fail but hasn't gone completely kaput yet. What this does is instead of opening the EGR valve when the PCM says to, it will now apply vacuum to the "Reference" sensor for the DPFE, and thus, the "Hi" sensor will see more pressure than the reference sensor sees, so the PCM is tricked into thinking that the EGR valve is working properly. If the DPFE sensor is completely shot, you'll get an "Insufficient EGR flow" CEL either way, hooked up this way or the original way, so it doesn't really hurt anything.

Remember to plug the 2 metal tubes that come off the larger metal EGR pipe. Failure to do so will result in hot exhaust fumes being released under the hood. This is not only noisy, but could possibly result in carbon monoxide getting inside your car while driving.

Next you need to clear the trouble code from the PCM and take it for a drive. The EGR valve only opens during deceleration so get it up to 55 quickly and take your foot off the gas, do this at least 12 time to see if the CEL comes back on. If it does not, drive it around normally for a day to see what happens.

If the CEL comes back on with a "low flow code" you have a bad DPFE.

If the "low flow code" does not come back, the problem is just that "low flow".
First you need to see if the EGR valve is working, this is easy to do (if you have a hand held vacuum pump). If you don't have a pump you will need to find a vacuum reference on the manifold to connect to.

Start the engine and let it idle, using a pump or manifold vacuum open the EGR valve, the engine should stumble and die. If it does nothing, the EGR valve is bad. If it just gets a little rough but keeps running, the passage way to the upper intake is most likely clogged with carbon.

To inspect the intake you will need to remove the throttle body. After removing the EGR valve and the throttle body you can clear the passage with some carb cleaner. If this passage is just half way restricted you will get a low flow code.

For more info. on how I resolved this problem with my sons Olds see this thread.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261169

The engine may be different but the principales are the same.

By the way, I wasted about 200 bucks on a new EGR valve and DPFE before I found the problem, do yourself a favor and learn from my mistakes. :)


Peace Out;
Bob
 






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