My Ford Explorer will not start!

[Jovnna0901]

if the solenoid is good, the starter/engine should spin just like in your previous test. if it's bad it will just click. if it just clicks the solenoid is no good, replace it

with the starter/engine spinning with the key ON the engine should start. if it doesn't, you have a fuel or spark problem. take some starting fluid with you and spray it in the throttle body. if the engine tries to start (or runs for a second) then you have a fuel/fuel system related problem. if not, you have a spark/ignition problem. i wish i could give you more of a list of things to do and check, but there are too many things your problem may be. you just have to keep eliminating possibilities.

When i did what you told me with the solenoid, it's happend the same as before... So the solenoid works then? I got my car today, now its like 1 minute from my bed

 

[koda2000]

okay, so if i'm understanding you correctly, when you jumped the fender mounted solenoid from the battery + side to the small center terminal the starter and engine spin. if that's the case then your solenoid is good. however, you've said that when you turn the ignition key to the START position it just clicks. right?

that would indicate there is a problem in either the wire attached to the small center terminal of the starter solenoid going back to the ignition switch, or the switch is no good. otherwise the starter would crank the engine when you turn the key. to be clear, when i say ignition switch i'm not talking about where the key goes. that's the key lock. the ignition switch is located on the lower steering column and is activated by the key lock, via a metal rod.

Turdle asked you a question about the anti-theft light. i don't see where you answered him. he also gave you some links to NO START procedures. have you read them? in normal mode, the anti-theft light should blink once about every 2 seconds. any faster blinking means there a PATS (passive anti-theft system) problem.

you should also pull out the relays located in the power distribution box (under the hood) and check their contacts for corrosion (one at a time). if you find any corrosion, clean it up with a wire brush and re-install them.

the above steps will help identify why your starter doesn't spin when you turn the key. it may, or may not explain why the engine doesn't fire. the starting fluid will help figure out what the problem there is (fuel or spark).

did you get some starting fluid?

 

[Chris Harrach]

I had a similar problem once with my '97 E.B.Explorer. It sat for 4 days at my job, and nothing would get it to start. I tried everything from jump starting it to changing out the fuel filter, and the ignition coil pack. In the end it turned out to be the Crank Sensor Switch, mounted on the bottom of the front of the engine block. Hope this helps.

Good luck.

 

[Jovnna0901]

okay, so if i'm understanding you correctly, when you jumped the fender mounted solenoid from the battery + side to the small center terminal the starter and engine spin. if that's the case then your solenoid is good. however, you've said that when you turn the ignition key to the START position it just clicks. right?

that would indicate there is a problem in either the wire attached to the small center terminal of the starter solenoid going back to the ignition switch, or the switch is no good. otherwise the starter would crank the engine when you turn the key. to be clear, when i say ignition switch i'm not talking about where the key goes. that's the key lock. the ignition switch is located on the lower steering column and is activated by the key lock, via a metal rod.

Turdle asked you a question about the anti-theft light. i don't see where you answered him. he also gave you some links to NO START procedures. have you read them? in normal mode, the anti-theft light should blink once about every 2 seconds. any faster blinking means there a PATS (passive anti-theft system) problem.

you should also pull out the relays located in the power distribution box (under the hood) and check their contacts for corrosion (one at a time). if you find any corrosion, clean it up with a wire brush and re-install them.

the above steps will help identify why your starter doesn't spin when you turn the key. it may, or may not explain why the engine doesn't fire. the starting fluid will help figure out what the problem there is (fuel or spark).

did you get some starting fluid?

Hey, yeah! When i turn the ignition key to start position it just clicks. I would say that the clicking comes from the relays.

Okay, the key lock is activating the ignition swich.

Yes, i did answer Turdle, But I did not say anyting about the anti-theft light.

How can i fix the PATS, if that is the problem? When i did take off the plastic around the steering column, å cable with plastic end broke off from the key lock... Do dis have much to say, or is it just a grounding?

I have checked the relays for corrosion, and it was "alot" on them. But i didn't brush them. I will do that today.

Yeah, I'm going to follow the steps tomorrow and se whats happend! What do you mean with "did you get some starting fluid?" if you mean gasoline so no... But i have USED "start gas" that i spray directly in the engine... No respons.. just all the same "jumping".

-John

 

[Jovnna0901]

I had a similar problem once with my '97 E.B.Explorer. It sat for 4 days at my job, and nothing would get it to start. I tried everything from jump starting it to changing out the fuel filter, and the ignition coil pack. In the end it turned out to be the Crank Sensor Switch, mounted on the bottom of the front of the engine block. Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Hey, so your key lock(ignition swich) was not working neither? And how did you check that it was the Crank sensor switch? Did you use a voltmeter? And did you buy a new one, or fixed the old one?

Thanks man, I need it!

 

[koda2000]

i looked at the wiring diagram for your truck. it indicates that there is starter relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid (over simplification). i'm guessing that's what you hear clicking. so the relay appears to being energized, but not passing power to the solenoid. you will have to clean those relays and the sockets they plug into in the power distribution box. if you have an owner's manual find out which relay is the starter relay and you can also try switching it with a less important relay (eg: a/c or something else not vital).

 

[Dave 1955]

On my 95 the push on terminal at the starter was lose and when turning the key you would just hear a click.
It's a pain to get to!

 

[koda2000]

here's a link to your starting wiring diagram.

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/searches?...mrt/ssc/p5_starting_charging/starting_circuit

 

[Jovnna0901]

i looked at the wiring diagram for your truck. it indicates that there is starter relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid (over simplification). i'm guessing that's what you hear clicking. so the relay appears to being energized, but not passing power to the solenoid. you will have to clean those relays and the sockets they plug into in the power distribution box. if you have an owner's manual find out which relay is the starter relay and you can also try switching it with a less important relay (eg: a/c or something else not vital).

So the relay that is between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid is in the
distribution box? And i got one owner's manual, so i will check! And i will also try to clean all the fuse's. I will comment here when i have done that.

 

[Jovnna0901]

On my 95 the push on terminal at the starter was lose and when turning the key you would just hear a click.
It's a pain to get to!

What do you mean with "the push on terminal" if you mean the wire that is is attached with "lugs?". I understand, because i have tighten it up by myself...

 

[Jovnna0901]

here's a link to your starting wiring diagram.

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/searches?...mrt/ssc/p5_starting_charging/starting_circuit

I need i "user ID" and password to get in.

 

[koda2000]

I need i "user ID" and password to get in.

when i click the link it comes up filled in, but...

User ID: RRCC
Password: rebsco

 

[Jovnna0901]

when i click the link it comes up filled in, but...

User ID: RRCC
Password: rebsco

Thanks.

And, Now i have cleaned all the fuses and all the releys in the engine rom( the main and the box with the batteri). I also find a relay box under the steering wheel. I cleaned them to. And i did change it with one les important relay, just to try... Without no luck... I also did clean the clamps on the positive and negative cable. But i don't know it that is the starter relay...

 

[Jovnna0901]

Hey, can i diagnose my car and wich diagnostic tool do i have to use?

Does the Ford have OBD2 or?

john

 

[koda2000]

Hey, can i diagnose my car and wich diagnostic tool do i have to use?

Does the Ford have OBD2 or?

john

OBD II was transitional in 1995. you may have the port, but not all the wires may be hooked up. secondly the problems you are having probably wouldn't throw any codes. is your check engine light on?

 

[Jovnna0901]

Okay, yeah, my check engine light is on

 

[Jovnna0901]

Koda2000 What can i do next? Some others that have tips?

 

[Jovnna0901]

What do you mean with "the push on terminal" if you mean the wire that is is attached with "lugs?". I understand, because i have tighten it up by myself...

And the starter turns, when i use a scrap wire from the + batteri to the midle terminal on the solenoid... So it's have to be something further up?

 

[Jovnna0901]

I had a similar problem once with my '97 E.B.Explorer. It sat for 4 days at my job, and nothing would get it to start. I tried everything from jump starting it to changing out the fuel filter, and the ignition coil pack. In the end it turned out to be the Crank Sensor Switch, mounted on the bottom of the front of the engine block. Hope this helps.

Good luck.

I tried to fint it, but i didn't find it... Do i have to screw something of to come to the crank sensor switch? and how do i check if it's broken?

 

[Chris Harrach]

I tried to fint it, but i didn't find it... Do i have to screw something of to come to the crank sensor switch? and how do i check if it's broken?

There's really no way to tell if the sensor has broken. Its best to replace it if its suspect, as it's not a very expensive part (as opposed to the $111.35 Idle Aircontrol Valve I had to replace this weekend. Ouch!!). Im adding a link to Autozones website, which will show you what the sensor looks like.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...N-j918bZ9gslr?itemIdentifier=184768_726118_0_ I'll see if I can find a diagram of the engine, showing the exact position. Hope this is of some help. (BTW, when I was having trouble getting mine started, before I knew what was wrong, the starter would turn as well as the motor, but it acted as if it wasnt getting gas or spark from the ignition coil pack)

Cheers.

Chris Harrach