My front differential is toast due to a severe leak!!!

[93explorereb]

Greetings:


I just discovered that my front diff leaked out all of its gear oil per a label that attached underneath the undercarriage. I brought it for a reasonable price, about 6 weeks ago (1997 Explorer 5.0 AWD DANA Front diff 3:55 gear ratio). I have another one that I will be picking up on Friday. It is out of a 2000 donor and has the same 3:55 gear ratio. How much of a PITA chore is it to extract the old for the replacement. I am very mechanically inclined, but I am considering replacing the diff myself. I have the tools, driveway and garage. Please all suggestions, and or experiences are welcomed. The diif is to the point of whinning, howling, and slightly grinding at times, it is getting worst. Would it be better to just order the 3:55 gear ratio setup and rebuild the original one, or just pop in the low mileaged donor, thanks in advance!!!!

Best Regards

 

[jlsparky7]

Im going to be shooting a how to video on this very soon. Just a flush and new cover install. Not a diff rebuild.

I know for removing the front differential you have to unbolt it from the frame and remove both axle 1/2 shafts. Should be easy.

 

[Turdle]

Jack the truck up and secure it.

Remove the front tires
remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt
Loosen and remove the hub nut

Pop upper ball joint up and out-this will release the knuckle

remove the shock bolts. Beware! the lower control arm will fall. Use a floor jack to raise it upon re assembly--


pop out the cv axle using a dull pry bar



remove the front drive shaft at front diff

remove rear torque plate bolt.

grab a pan to catch oil

drop passenger side of diff by removing passenger side bolt

let it drain while removing the driver side diffy bolt-lower the diff to the ground
throw it away. Scrap it. whatever

put the donor in after opening, cleaning and re sealing the day prior--install new bearings and end seals!!!!!!

once the diff is hung, now is the time to fill it

re assemble

 

[my98nnj]

It's not such a bad job, did mine in just over 2 hrs.

 

[93explorereb]

Jack the truck up and secure it.

Remove the front tires
remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt
Loosen and remove the hub nut

Pop upper ball joint up and out-this will release the knuckle

remove the shock bolts. Beware! the lower control arm will fall. Use a floor jack to raise it upon re assembly--


pop out the cv axle using a dull pry bar



remove the front drive shaft at front diff

remove rear torque plate bolt.

grab a pan to catch oil

drop passenger side of diff by removing passenger side bolt

let it drain while removing the driver side diffy bolt-lower the diff to the ground
throw it away. Scrap it. whatever

put the donor in after opening, cleaning and re sealing the day prior--install new bearings and end seals!!!!!!

once the diff is hung, now is the time to fill it

re assemble

Thanks! I am getting really tempted to do it myself! I got a quote of $250.00 from a local shop. How much does the yoke weigh? So basically the yoke itself slides into the axle shafts. What about the U-joint connection, is that sort of splined into the yoke and connected via a series of bolts. Thanks again, you have made the laundry list of things much more practical. But overall the yoke basically raises up and realigns with each axle shaft? Should I gather the donor axle shafts too, or are the original ones ok (122,500 orginal miles). They don't appear to be bent or damaged. One other thing, could a damaged front diff, also damage my transfer case. Thanks again!

 

[93explorereb]

I am trying to locate a gasket for the diff to no avail. Now would I just be removing the bottom shock bolts only? And what about the front coil springs tension concerns?

Best Regards

 

[gmanpaint]

Just use black RTV instead of a gasket if you cant find one.

You don't have to remove the shocks if you don't want to. It will still come off with them on.

You don't have front coil springs on a stock 97. The torsion bars will release the tension with the front end off the ground and hanging down, no worries there.

Swapping out a donor diff is the cheapest & easiest way to go. If the donor diff looks clean, & no evidence of leaks around the rear yolk, don't fret, leave it alone.

 

[93explorereb]

It's not such a bad job, did mine in just over 2 hrs.

cool! Please elaborate on anything else that I should know. Does the yoke install straight up and into alignment of the axle shafts. Also would a small floor jack be helpful? Thanks again! You guys have inspired me to try and do it myself, I would at least save me 250.00 plus dollars!

 

[93explorereb]

Im going to be shooting a how to video on this very soon. Just a flush and new cover install. Not a diff rebuild.

I know for removing the front differential you have to unbolt it from the frame and remove both axle 1/2 shafts. Should be easy.

Thanks! Video presentation is an excellent concept. It really completes the whole instructional guide reference thing. Thanks again!

 

[93explorereb]

Just use black RTV instead of a gasket if you cant find one.

You don't have to remove the shocks if you don't want to. It will still come off with them on.

You don't have front coil springs on a stock 97. The torsion bars will release the tension with the front end off the ground and hanging down, no worries there.

Swapping out a donor diff is the cheapest & easiest way to go. If the donor diff looks clean, & no evidence of leaks around the rear yolk, don't fret, leave it alone.

Thanks! I can't wait to get started!

 

[93explorereb]

It's not such a bad job, did mine in just over 2 hrs.

absolutely not bad for time, in fact very good!!!

 

[93explorereb]

Should I retain the axle shafts from the donor? Or would it be ok for me to continue to use mine. Also one other thing, if my transfer case went south, what are some of the telltale signs of such. Currently I believe this not to be the case, but as a future reference note, what are some of the classic signs, thanks again, you guys have been extremely helpful and supportive!!!

 

[gavin]

I'm pretty sure I made a how-to post on replacing the front axle assy.

lemme see if I can find it.


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217459

 

[93explorereb]

I'm pretty sure I made a how-to post on replacing the front axle assy.

lemme see if I can find it.


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217459

Dam thats cool! Thanks so much, very well illustrated!! I just picked up a clean donor 3:55 ratio from a 2000 with only 75000 original miles on it. Hey Gavin, thanks again!

 

[93explorereb]

Hey Gavin, how much more of an advantage could one have with a 4:10 ratio vs a 3:55 ratio? Is it durability, gas savings, and or towing capacity and or the use of larger tires? Right now I am running 31's, however, I would like to upgrade to either 32's or even 33's. Also would my 97 awd 5.0 XLT need any additional modes for such an upgrade, or is it just a plug and play like my original 3:55 setup. I would reconsider my 3:55 and take it back for a 4:10 later on today, should this be the case. Thanks once again!

 

[gavin]

with 3.73's and my 33's, my truck was having a hard time on the highway in overdrive. The slightest hills would cause it to downshift, and it didn't like staying in OD.
after swapping in the 4.10 axles, the truck has a much easier time staying in OD, without the need to downshift. I do plan on going to 4.56's in the future, because it still downshifts a lot when trying to stay at ~65-68mph.

although going to lower (numerically higher) gearing, you will lose some highway mpg, whether or not it's worth it is all dependent on how much highway driving you do, and how much off-roading you do. The less highway, the less noticeable it will be.

I recommend a MINIMUM of 4.10's with 33's. I'll be much happier with 4.56's though.

 

[93explorereb]

with 3.73's and my 33's, my truck was having a hard time on the highway in overdrive. The slightest hills would cause it to downshift, and it didn't like staying in OD.
after swapping in the 4.10 axles, the truck has a much easier time staying in OD, without the need to downshift. I do plan on going to 4.56's in the future, because it still downshifts a lot when trying to stay at ~65-68mph.

although going to lower (numerically higher) gearing, you will lose some highway mpg, whether or not it's worth it is all dependent on how much highway driving you do, and how much off-roading you do. The less highway, the less noticeable it will be.

I recommend a MINIMUM of 4.10's with 33's. I'll be much happier with 4.56's though.

Thanks! Yeah, my hwy driving is about 99% of the time averaging 120-150 miles per a day roundtrip. I can't seem to find the left side axle bearing. Advance Discount Auto Parts, had everything but that one. Napa Auto Parts sells 2 types, the cheap version for about $12.00 and the expensive one for $33.00. SKF puts out both. I figured, that I might as well replace everything inside the axle/differential regarding the donor differential. I did observe the bearings and seals to still be inside the donor diff. So basically, I would have to extract the old bearings and or seals (picking hook tool), and pop in the new ones? Thanks again, I really appreciate all of your help!

 

[gavin]

are you talking front axle shaft bearing?

if so, I have actual part numbers here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215779

 

[93explorereb]

are you talking front axle shaft bearing?

if so, I have actual part numbers here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215779

Yes, thanks! I should be on the road this week!