My project

[mrjody]

Ok.. I need some help in understanding a couple things and part number and what to get and not to get..
Little run down here.. 2000 expo 302, harness and computer swap into.a 2000 ranger. That's the easy part!.
Now what I need to know and I somewhat figured out for the maf in another thread,.. (1) can a double roll timing chain and gears be used on the explorer
(2) I need to get a set of roller lifters,are the 6500 ford roller lifters good?
(3) The Injectors in these explores are ev6?
(4) would you use head studds or just bolts for Twisted wedge heads?
(5) the cam timing sensor.. what the best way to.set this back up? I changed the cam out

 

[Mbrooks420]

5. You set number one to TDC on compression stroke, and use the plastic alignment tool to drop the cam sync drive into the motor. The arrow should point forward.

 

[mrjody]

Anyone have any input..

 

[410Fortune]

the explorer timing chain is already pretty stout. What setup are you looking to use? The explorer timing cover does NOT have alot of clearance for larger chains, but I am not sure if the aftermarket stuff will fit in there, never tried as I said the stock explorer chain is stout.

2. Ford roller lifters? I have always used Melling I know nothing about Ford lifters. Any reviews out there? If they are a Ford performance product then I would not hesitate to run them
3. EV6? Stock they are Bosch 4 hole 19 lb injectors. I type in EV6 injector in google and it appears to be the correct injector body yes.
4. Head studs are always a good upgrade over bolts..... TTY bolts work just fine too, I dont plan to keep removing my heads so TTY bolts work for me. I understand studs can hold a constant more clamping force so its never a bad idea to upgrade. Needed? Maybe not at these power levels, but a nice upgrade for sure.

5. @Mbrooks420 has you covered. You cannot adjust timing at the cam sensor on these engines, there is no advance or retard at the cam synchro.... you just set the synchro with cyl #1 at TDC compression stroke and you are done


How is your wiring coming? I love 5.0 Rangers

 

[Mbrooks420]

Why would you want a double row timing chain?

 

[mrjody]

Thanks 410 for the info.. I need to get the 77 or 80 mm maf.. lifters and timing chain.. gasket kit and head bolts. This motor will never see boost or nitrous..so the tty heads bolts will work for.me then..
As far as the wireing.. I've got that done.. had to move a couple wires for the ac. That's about it.
Waiting on the heads and intake to get done at the porter..then put it together
That's the auto transmission plug for the explorer. I defined what I didnt need. Only thing in here is 02 sensor, back up lights and sn switch

 

[mrjody]

Why would you want a double row timing chain?

Why would you no want a double row timing chain?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I asked you first. Please enlighten me on the benefits/ and or needs on why you think it would be beneficial. Unless, of course, you don’t actually have any valid reason.

 

[CDW6212R]

Any of the aftermarket SBF timing sets will go in these 302's. A double roller just means there are two thin rows of rollers, old school common chain terms. Choose one by price and quality, you won't need a $100 timing set for a mild 302. I have an Edelbrock set I gave about $45 for 20+ years ago.

The key there for any timing set is, do the rollers have seams? Avoid any seamed roller timing set, those are cheaper and weaker. I had to send back a Cloyes timing set for my 2nd Cleveland build, in about 1982 they were supposed to be seamless roller.

Any quality lifter will be fine for a mild build, just avoid any odd cheap brand stuff. Much higher rpm needs top brand stuff, so 7500rpm needs more money parts.

Buy ARP bolts for almost all internal fasteners, yes the studs are best for much higher cylinder pressures like boost and high rpm.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I understand what they are. I just don’t see the benefit on any 5.0 with what you can do with a stock block.

 

[mrjody]

I asked you first. Please enlighten me on the benefits/ and or needs on why you think it would be beneficial. Unless, of course, you don’t actually have any valid reason.

Because its definitely better than a single gear set for starters

 

[mrjody]

Any of the aftermarket SBF timing sets will go in these 302's. A double roller just means there are two thin rows of rollers, old school common chain terms. Choose one by price and quality, you won't need a $100 timing set for a mild 302. I have an Edelbrock set I gave about $45 for 20+ years ago.

The key there for any timing set is, do the rollers have seams? Avoid any seamed roller timing set, those are cheaper and weaker. I had to send back a Cloyes timing set for my 2nd Cleveland build, in about 1982 they were supposed to be seamless roller.

Any quality lifter will be fine for a mild build, just avoid any odd cheap brand stuff. Much higher rpm needs top brand stuff, so 7500rpm needs more money parts.

Buy ARP bolts for almost all internal fasteners, yes the studs are best for much higher cylinder pressures like boost and high rpm.

Yeah, I've built a blown foxbody that did 520 to the tire.. I know all to well about power and money. Just wasnt sure on these explore engines and timing covers

 

[mrjody]

Dedreed the cam in today, it was 1.5* offof 108, it checked in at 106.5 according to my math figures. Duration was suppose to be 222 intake and 230 exhaust.. duration was only .5 off. Again, could have been me not seeing the precise point on the wheel. I'll run it as is

 

[Mbrooks420]

Because its definitely better than a single gear set for starters

Great answer. What’s the second reason?
Single row, double row, gears and belts all have advantages and disadvantages.

 

[mrjody]

Great answer. What’s the second reason?
Single row, double row, gears and belts all have advantages and disadvantages.

It's a fact that a double row is better than a single. Extra insurance. They are stronger. That alone is reason enough.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's a fact that a double row is better than a single. Extra insurance. They are stronger. That alone is reason enough.

Ditto, decades ago I recall the costs for timing sets was maybe $20 to $60 or so. There were no high end brand stuff, torrington bearings on the back sides, and of the few brands, the cheap stuff was visibly cheap like the OEM plastic gear(used into the late 80's). A double roller set was virtually the same price as single roller sets, the big new feature was seamless roller chains. Prior to the 80's the chains were cheaply made with seams in the rollers, which weakened over time and the chains stretched far more than seamless roller chains.

Today race stuff can be $150 up easily, with billet gears and the torrington bearings, using new cover plates to fit them. I still think a good timing set with seamless rollers is in the $50 range, but now there are many more brands, more junk brands.

 

[mrjody]

So my Pro M 80 mm cam in... now I just have to figure out out to wire it up to the 2000 explorer harness..

 

[mrjody]

Ditto, decades ago I recall the costs for timing sets was maybe $20 to $60 or so. There were no high end brand stuff, torrington bearings on the back sides, and of the few brands, the cheap stuff was visibly cheap like the OEM plastic gear(used into the late 80's). A double roller set was virtually the same price as single roller sets, the big new feature was seamless roller chains. Prior to the 80's the chains were cheaply made with seams in the rollers, which weakened over time and the chains stretched far more than seamless roller chains.

Today race stuff can be $150 up easily, with billet gears and the torrington bearings, using new cover plates to fit them. I still think a good timing set with seamless rollers is in the $50 range, but now there are many more brands, more junk brands.

Very true.. technically sometimes is to much

 

[mrjody]

So.. checked pushro length yesterday.. HOLY CHIT!!! First time ever doing it. I'm a flooring installer by trade.
So hours or so later..we finally got it(my brother and I) he is a flooring installer too..lol
So to me, the unanswered question that I could never find was do you check with a solid, old or new lifter? Pumped or unpumped?
Tried with a disassembled stock roller lifter, that was a no go. Tried with one of my old lifters, that was a no go go because they were apparently froze up.
So I ended up using a brand new unpumped lifter, set the checker to zero lash, rolled the engine over 2 full turns and che kd the valve stem to see where the roller was centered yet..its as about perfect as you're going to get.
So was told doing it this way, add .50 thousands to the length of pushrod for new unpumped lifters..?

 

[410Fortune]

un primed or not they are still solid as a rock???

Where did you hear to add .005" (.005 is thousands)? Sounds like it might be good advice! I have only done this using stock lifters that are still solid like a rock/ 0.005 is not much, so I don't see its going to hurt your wear pattern there which looks to be just shy of the very center of that valve stem

Interesting that you guys are flooring installers, my wife has a carpet business since 1997 my stepsons and wife are all flooring installers by trade Carpet, tile, laminate, I have been schooled!!!